Engine change - conversion aspects

[Dangerdoc]

You see guys, this is the beauty of a forum of people who share knowledge.

Absolutely fantastic.

Perry I had a feeling it was like what is shown in your pic, but what worries me is that it's connected to a stool (no not a human by-product one - I see enough of those ).

The magic marker idea is spot on. I'll go and draw all over the thing tomorrow evening.

Really chuffed.

Doc

[ChrisJC]

Also, if it's not too late, it's far far easier to leave the torque converter in the gearbox, and remove the four bolts which hold the torque converter to the flexplate. You can access these bolts in situ by removing the bottom cover from the bellhousing and using a socket set through the four holes in the ring gear.

I found trying to get the torque converter back in the box to be a real nuisance (and it leaks shed loads of oil when you pop it off!)

Chris.

[Dangerdoc]

Hi Chris,

That's a great idea.

I got red rained on when the damn thing came out and was actually thinging of tacking up the rear of the sodding car to get it on an uphill incline when replacing the engine then realised.. not the brightest idea to try and push the engine uphill !!!

Definately take you up on that idea and install the torque convertor and, of course, the "inertia drum" and flexplate in a more sensible manner.

Really chuffed with that.

One thing that has just literally sprang to mind... and on the fly..do I need to set the tappet preload - this is a genuine landrover exchange unit and came all shiny and plugged up.

I am assuming that this has been done as the oil pump has been packed etc... so I assume they would have done that at the factory during reassembly.

[ChrisJC]

If it came as a complete engine, then the tappet preload should be within spec.

I would however prime the oil pump with a power drill though before trying to start it.....

Chris.

[Dangerdoc]

Thanks Chris.

It never entered my head to prime the pump with power drill.

I was going to disable the fuel pump and starve the engine whilst cranking on the starter when the time comes but that's a storming idea.

As ever, grateful for the good, solid, advice from you guys.

Doc

[kiwicar]

A better procedure is to
1/ prime oil pump
2/ take the plugs out and squirt oil down the bores
3/ disable fuel pump
4/ crank it over until you have fuel pressure (this should be in 30 seconds)I would have a glamerous assistant hold a rag over the plug holes
5/ stick the plugs in and reconnect fuel supply
6/ fire it up, straight up to 2000 to 2500 revs to run the cam in, don't let it sit at idle. Vary it between 2 to 2.5k for about 20 min watching the water temp and looking for leaks and fix anything by stopping the engine sorting it out and restarting and straight up to 2000 to 2500.
There is another thread running with this at the moment.
Mike

[Dangerdoc]

Hi Kiwi

All fair and well but.... it has been recommended by several sources that the revs should really not be above 1000 as there is a risk of damaging the rear crank oilseal.

So, yes - definitely help the oil get in were possible - the glorious assistant might be a problem, just a mate who is glad he is looking from the inside out

I'll keep the rates below 1000, the rockers will be off so I can see that the oil is getting to the top end.

Things are a wee while off (maybe a couple of weeks) but it will be interesting to see how it all fires up - smoke, smells and hopefully no leaks.

At least it will be a bit nervy and a laugh as there is bound to be something that wizzes or bangs.

Doc

[katanaman]

What Kiwi is on about with the revs is if you have a new cam fitted. The debate is you need to run the cam in at higher rpm for 20 mins or so. The other side of the debate is there is no way this is done in the factory and it certainly wont do anything to help bed in brand new rings. You pays your money you makes your choice really. As for rear oil seal, never heard of that before or running in an oil seal. I don't see what keeping revs down can possibly do to be honest. Might have done something on the old rope type seals but a modern one?

[kiwicar]

to me it is a bit of a no brainer.... rear oil seal under £5, and a bit of hassel IF you have to change it (which if you have lubricated it when you put it in you won't). Cam and set of lifters over £250 plus, take the ends off the lobes of a new cam each time you fire it up for the first time then you will never have an engine that reaches the output you want. Dead rear oil seal then you change it when the cam is run in. As for the rings, putting the oil down the bores first will stop you dammaging them on cranking and until the oil gets thrown onto the bores. True running at that speed with no load won't bed in the rings, but loading up the engine to soon will hit the main bearings.
As for what the factory does, on a volume production engine 20 min of operator time running in the cam on an engine rig plus 10 min set up would add a cost of at least £75 per unit, that is never going to be spent when Landrover lived with cheep as you can get oil pumps that don't even prime themselves for decades because they could not "justify" the cost of a redesign.
If it is an old cam then don't worry other than run it with as much oil pressure and flow as you can and light load to bed the rings.
Mike.

[Dangerdoc]

OK, OK - I surrender. Lets recap on what is being fitted before we go off on all sorts of cams, bearings and new parts championship.

The COMPLETE engine is new - it is a complete unit - long engine - but having the intake upwards from the old engine re-installed.

So the sump, crank, shells, seals, block, heads, pistons, con-rods, valves, tappets, camshaft, rocker cams, timing gear, timing cover, small wiggly bit, other small wiggly bit and the screw down milk driven - non retrun - worm drive inserter flangifier are all new.

So the complete thing is needing tender loving care in some way to make sure I don't spend all this cash and time then destroy the Tw*t when I fire it up.

The complex bit for me was actually quite simple - a piddly little bush in the crank end for a manual input shaft but once out the "inertia drum" -Perry loves that - slidesin a treat and the only thing is making sure I don't screw up firing the damn thing back into life.

Got the Defib and a couple of small dressings ready if it needs it but hoping to just hear a few rattles for a couple of mins that die down and if I am lucky - some smells and a bit of "newness" smoke. No leaks or stuff.

We will see. So it is not just one or two new parts, the whole thing is bright and shiny - meaning it is certainly not at its optimum yet.

Doc

[kiwicar]

The other bits to have to hand are, Fire extinguisher and someone to operate it (who does not have other distractions). Hose pipe as recomended, to cool the rad. Try and get as much air out the cooling system as you can before you start, it normally involves lots of massaging of pipes. It will rattle as the tappets fill with oil but should go quiet after about 20 seconds at good oil pressure. If you are planning to start it up with the rocker covers off then have a pint of oil in a jug to hand and poor some of it over the rockers when you get a chance as it will cool the top end, and do it again from time to time little and often. nasty metallic sounds can he leaky exhaust manifold gaskets, but chech for anything that sounds iffy. A long handled screw driver can hbe usefull to identify where a rattle is comming from (hold one end on the block the other to your ear ) and remember to keep varying the revs every 20 to 30 seconds or so.
Good luck and have fun
Mike

[Dangerdoc]

Many thanks Kiwi.

Funny you should say about the fire extinguisher, I'm a medic and my mate who is helping me is, or all things, a senior judge for the Fire Service who judges international extrications (cutting peeps out of everything and anything) and said he would bring his "toys" when we need to start it up.

Knowing him, probably end up with a HAZMAT unit and a couple of fire pumps, well at least a CO2 and a couple of AFFF units.

This has been great learning from you guys in here and it is genuinely appreciated.

Will keep you informed of the progress.

Doc

[kiwicar]

Usefull mate to have!
Mike

[mgbv8]

Doc
I've got a priming tool and a decent battery drill if you want to borrow them?

I never start a new bulld until Ive seen oil and pressure from a good dose of the battery drill with lots of oil seeping from the rockers.

My priming tool is for the early V8 as it has a male end.

[Dangerdoc]

Hi all,

Well got the various bits I was stuck on all sorted out and quite happy now, much to the advice given in here.

Bolting on the exhaust pipes (S/Steel 4 pipe manifolds not those nasty cast things) and noticed little red plastic blanking plugs one just above and to the side of the exhaust manifold top bolts.

Puled out one and they are threaded for about 10mm then down in the centre is a small hole in the centre about 2mm in diameter.

I feel the need for some blanking plugs to be in there but I have no idea on earth what they are for.

Over to the wizards, boffins but certainly not Harry Potter.

Doc