is this the rear oil seal?

Ralphh85 · Post by **Ralphh85** » Thu Apr 24, 2008 9:51 am

got this off ebay, i presume the red one is the rear oil seal (one by the flywheel).

guessing i just lever the nakerd one out with a screw driver and push this one in? there no special way of doing it?

also what are they little cross things??

Ralph

sidecar · Post by **sidecar** » Thu Apr 24, 2008 10:20 am

The big red one is the rear main seal, I guess that you just push it into place but I would not be surprised if I'm wrong!

The little crosses are to help you pray that the motor will run again!

Actually they are "crucifix seals" which go near the main bearings somewhere!

I think that it is fairly obvious once the sump is off. Apparently you do not cut them off flush with the gasket face but leave them sticking up (maybe 2mm).

If I had the manual with me I could give you more info!

Pete

seight · Post by **seight** » Thu Apr 24, 2008 11:17 am

I think you need some slack in the rear bearing retainer in order to fit it properly. Once you've slackened that you probably should take it out and fit new crucifix seals at the same time - these need a bit of RTV on them and fit in the sides of the bearing retainer.
Best to wait till someone with a manual or encyclopedic knowledge somes along. I have neither with me at the moment.
Mike

v8alex · Post by **v8alex** » Thu Apr 24, 2008 12:01 pm

Rover do supply a special tool to fit the rear seals, but it can be fitted without this. I pushed / tapped mine gently in place. The cruciform seals fit in cut-outs in the rear mains cap - you can just see these in the pic below.

I torqued the rear cap down after fitting the rear seal, so you may want to remove the rear cap, pull out the cruciform seals plus end seal, then refit with new seals plus a bead of RTV sealant (I used Blue Hylomar) across the mating face of the cap / block.

Alex

ChrisJC · Post by **ChrisJC** » Thu Apr 24, 2008 12:27 pm

both prev. posts.

It's much easier with the rear cap slack, and if you've done that you might as well change the cruciform seals too. You are supposed to trim them 2mm (I think) proud, so the sump squeezes them in.

And don't forget the sealant, I can't quite remember where it goes, but it's logical when you look at it all in pieces. Just put sealant where there is nothing else to stop the oil!

Chris.

Ralphh85 · Post by **Ralphh85** » Thu Apr 24, 2008 12:45 pm

but i dont have to take the sump off to do this do i?

im only changing the seal as its leaking a bit, the engine only has to last 6 months or something, just to get the car on the road, int he long run i will build a new engine,

this engine has done 144k so has seent he best of its days, there no point in me putting much effort in as it needs a full rebuild really.

Ralph

kiwicar · Post by **kiwicar** » Thu Apr 24, 2008 1:33 pm

Grease the lip face of the new seal before you fit it. If you don't they over heat in about the first 10 seconds of cranking and will never stop the oil making its exit.
Mike

ChrisJC · Post by **ChrisJC** » Thu Apr 24, 2008 2:40 pm

If you don't want to drop the sump, then yes, all you can do is carefully get the old one out, and drive in the new one.

I found that the new one had a bit of a habit of sliding out again unless you get it all very oil free in there.

Chris.

Ralphh85 · Post by **Ralphh85** » Thu Apr 24, 2008 4:24 pm

cool so grease the inside and clean up the outside. makes sence i guess.

cheers

ppyvabw · Post by **ppyvabw** » Tue Apr 29, 2008 9:26 am

Cut a strip from a plastic cola bottle or something to wrap around the bit on the crank that makes contact with the seal and make lie a cylinder for the seal to slide onto. Then insert the seal over that if you know what I mean, so that the lips on the seal aren't damaged as you force it over the crank seal journal thing. Then when the seal is in, just slide out the plastic. Just makes it easier. You can also grease the plastic to make the seal slide down it easier.

Ralphh85 · Post by **Ralphh85** » Tue Apr 29, 2008 10:46 am

greased up the inside, getting the seal over the crank wasnt a problem, tho it was hard getting it fulley in, ended up using the old seal as a drift and tapping it with a hammer, it went in with no damage anyway so was a sucsess.

cheers for the help!

Ralph