non runner, what should i look for???

scaredpassenger · Post by **scaredpassenger** » Wed Apr 16, 2008 10:40 am

hi guys
right im inspecting the vehicle this evening, its currently im told a non runner, im not sure why its a non runner at the moment but time will tell!
ive not looked at a 3,5 v8 before so is there anything i should be looking for specifically with the engine?

ill check oil quality and quantity and coolant colour and protection value, ill also remove the oil filler cap to look at the internal colouration but is there anything else i should be looking for?
these engine's prone to oil leaks? where should i be looking for them?

what about the carbs? anything to look for there?

than ks for any help

regards

Tony

Post by **katanaman** » Wed Apr 16, 2008 11:26 am

P6 engine uses points so that would be the first place I would look for not starting. P6 also uses old rope oil seals on the crank so is liable to leak oil from there. Other place for oil leaks is the valley gasket.

scaredpassenger · Post by **scaredpassenger** » Wed Apr 16, 2008 12:10 pm

and i'll find the valley gasket just below the hill's i assume??? lol

sorry where abouts will that probable leak live?

i will examine all the electrics on her as i assume the battery will be dead and the electrics should probably be interesting to look at compared to the more modern cars out there!

thanks for your quick reply!

Post by **katanaman** » Wed Apr 16, 2008 4:34 pm

your nearly right with the hills its in the valley of the V under the inlet manifold.

bodger · Post by **bodger** » Wed Apr 16, 2008 4:38 pm

i assume you are thinking of buying this ??

if so be careful that it's not been made a non runner so as to hide a deeper problem

the first thing to check is a spark , and if there is fuel getting there , there might be a clear fuel filter if so you can see it

they are a very simple engine , and if you have fuel and sparks in the right place it should run
if in dought put some petrol down the inlet , i did this with my efi just tio check and it started on the ground with just power to the coil

scaredpassenger · Post by **scaredpassenger** » Wed Apr 16, 2008 6:55 pm

well i was basically given it by a mate (it cost me a pound!! long story)

so im not really bothered about the state of it cos even broken the car is worth well over £500 in parts! but i have no plans to break her!

unfortunately ive not been able to go and view her tonight as i forgot about dinner plans my missus had arranged but i will hopefully get round there tommorow night!

cheers for the replys!

ChrisJC · Post by **ChrisJC** » Wed Apr 16, 2008 8:02 pm

As far as getting it running, best bet is to check for spark and fuel reaching the carbs, then come back here with the symptoms.

Chris.

scaredpassenger · Post by **scaredpassenger** » Thu Apr 17, 2008 8:05 am

i have a feeling that the perol in the tank is gonna be about as useable as a chocolate teapot, so im gonna take a seperate fresh supply!

Darkspeed · Post by **Darkspeed** » Thu Apr 17, 2008 8:51 am

Be aware that the RV8 if left for a long time has a tendency not to self prime it's oil pump when restarted.

Always a good practice to remove oil pressure sender and pump in a good pint of oil, replace sender then remove plugs and turn engine over to establish pressure at the pump and flow to the rockers before actually starting the engine.

Andrew

kiwicar · Post by **kiwicar** » Thu Apr 17, 2008 9:26 am

I would also stick a squirt of oil down each bore before priming everything with the plugs out, the oil will spray everywhere so stick a rag over each bank.
I would take a rocker cover off before you start it and have a good look at the state of the valve gear, look for white oil emulsion, burnt oil and brown sludge also check the wear of the rockers on the shaft, it will give you a good idea of it's state.
It depends what you want to know, at a rough guess it is the original engine at about 80 to 100K miles, it will have had the oil changed at about 6k miles until it was about 60k then this dropped to every 8 to 10K it has been stood not stored with old oil in it for about 2 years under cover? it has a light rust film inside the bores, and the oil pump has drained out. to me that says get it home, strip the engine (without starting it) then you will be able to do a good rebuild without a rebore, just a hone and new rings (keeping original pistons) I would find some SD1 heads and clean up the castings and fit good valves and single springs, a mild cam (r87 is a good step up that I had in RR) and a new set of needles, and otherwise keep it as it is, should be a joy.
Mike

scaredpassenger · Post by **scaredpassenger** » Thu Apr 17, 2008 9:47 am

excelent advice and i'll take that all on board

hopefully the present owners hasnt attempted to start it, knowing him he hasnt anyway!

cheers