rover to TH350 gearbox adapter

mgbv8 · Post by **mgbv8** » Tue Nov 20, 2007 6:45 pm

Sorry Hoff
I was at work earlier and my pics are on the home pc. I'm back in now so here you go.
As you can see, this one is a much neater deal.
Regards
Perry

http://s205.photobucket.com/albums/bb27 ... ics003.jpg

hoffbug · Post by **hoffbug** » Tue Nov 20, 2007 9:06 pm

Thanks Perry..
What size Rover engine are you running?
Are you using a Rover or Buick 215, or 300 crank?
Did the kit require and hub between the flexplate and crank?

Thanks again. Tony

mgbv8 · Post by **mgbv8** » Tue Nov 20, 2007 9:18 pm

Tony
I had this setup on the rover 3500 last year, and now I use it on the rover 4.6 and both engines use nitrous. Both engines are Rover. The 3500 being a 1975 lump and the 4.6 I think is a late 90's model.
With the kits from D&D fabrications you just remove the old spigot bush in the crank. Bolt the flex plate on, fit the pilot bush, bolt the adpator plate onto the block, slip the torque converter onto the TH350 input shaft, bolt the box to the block, make sure you have 3mm expansion gap between the converter mounting plates and the lugs on the flex plate, then bolt it up.

I'm using as Chevy pattern TH350 in my MGB so I had to nibble a little out of the bell housing to accomodate the starter motor nose, and I trimmed the little peak off the top of the bellhousing for tunnel clearance.

This was a nice easy conversion for the MGB V8.

Mark Lagrou at D&D is very helpful by the way.

hoffbug · Post by **hoffbug** » Tue Nov 20, 2007 9:26 pm

Thanks again Perry You have really shed some light on this.

The D&D flexplate appears to be the same as a stock Buick/Olds 215 piece.
Here is a picture of one I found on Ebay.

They just drill the bolt holes for the modern converter bolt pattern..

JC. · Post by **JC.** » Wed Nov 21, 2007 12:07 am

I bloody knew it was a buick flexplate!

Perry and I have been trying to identify that thing for months.
I'm doing my own TH350 conversion now.

hoffbug · Post by **hoffbug** » Wed Nov 21, 2007 12:42 am

Here is a side by side.. Looks the same to me...

Perrys' D&D piece on the left... Olds 215 on the right..

mgbv8 · Post by **mgbv8** » Wed Nov 21, 2007 9:53 am

Well done Tony!!
I've been punting that pic around a load of UK based V8 shops and American car specialist and have so far drawn a blank. I can now start looking on ebay then.
Thanks
Perry

hoffbug · Post by **hoffbug** » Wed Nov 21, 2007 11:33 am

I didnt count the teeth but they appear to be the same to me....

The only thing that Im still curious about is why the stock 4.6 has that spacer between the crank and flexplate and the D&D adapter kit doesnt require it... Maybe the stock Rover trans in the Range Rover 4.6 has the torque converter mounted WAY back.

mgbv8 · Post by **mgbv8** » Wed Nov 21, 2007 8:13 pm

Tony
I can only assume that the Rover 3500 / 4600 torque converter is shorter, or the input shaft of the Rover auto box is further away from the crank. I have never seen either so I dont know. But the 215 flex plate with the lugs welded on does the job just fine. And this includes the expansion gap.

hoffbug · Post by **hoffbug** » Thu Nov 22, 2007 12:47 am

Here is another picture for the sake of community....
Its shows a Rover 4.6 flexplate and the D&D modified 215 flexplates. If you look at the center its pretty obvious that the Rover plate would not work without the crank to flexplate adapter shown the the expanded diagram posted earlier.

This might also explain why the Australian Castlemaine Rod Shop adapter for the Leyland P76 and Rover has this huge ring in it...

andyv8van · Post by **andyv8van** » Thu Nov 22, 2007 3:07 pm

Hi All

getting on with my th350 fitment,thanks to perry with the photos etc.ill be looking for the buick flex plate,found one but bit old and rusty....
but ill keep looking.

Andy

just got the box on marking the pins and bolt holes and now ready to drill them.will trim plate when all holes are finished.

JC. · Post by **JC.** » Thu Nov 22, 2007 3:43 pm

Looking good, Andy.

You can trim the top and LH side of the bellhousing if you're a bit stuck for clearance.

Have you had any thoughts as to what you will do for a transmission dipstick tube?
Perry runs his inside the drivers footwell, but i'd prefer to run mine into the engine bay so its easier to check.

mgbv8 · Post by **mgbv8** » Thu Nov 22, 2007 4:00 pm

Did you have to trim anything off to clear the nose of the RV8 starter motor mate? I ended up cutting a bit away and making up a little cover.

andyv8van · Post by **andyv8van** » Thu Nov 22, 2007 7:51 pm

Hi

well i hadnt give it a thought till you said about cutting a bit away from the bellhousing.I will have a look when i get the plate cut out for the starter and re mount the gearbox.

the idea if cutting the top part off bell housing seems a good idea.makes a better clearance fit.

do you have a pic of yours perry.,it will help no end......

i will look at a flex tube dip stick,i know they do two lengths so i dont know what size i will use

Andy

mgbv8 · Post by **mgbv8** » Thu Nov 22, 2007 8:55 pm

I cant find any pics mate as I lost 3 years stuff on a pc crash a while back.
But if you look at thre front of the bellhousing. You can see the top part is a little hump that is cast into the top of the housing. I just cut this off to leave the main part of ther bell housing.
When I get a mo to clear all the stuff thats laying on top of the car I'll pop the bonnet and take a pic of it in the engine bay.
I modified a pontiac dipstick and tube to fit mine. Too tight to buy a long flexy one at the time mate.
Perry

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rover to TH350 gearbox adapter

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