Staying away from braided, will make it cheaper lol.
Keep as many of your fittings straight, as the angles are usually double the price, at least.
So think it through that way, and draw it out.
Id stay away from Banjo's if possible, they hurt flow, and again, more bits required, so can be more expensive than the equivalent straight+adaptor.
If the bits are out of sight, lots of them can be had in plated steel, which again will reduce costs. So dont forget that. The alloy fittings are more expensive.
On my hotwire rail, I soldered some sort of brass fitting I found, in order to attach my fuel line. I used nylon hardline tube, and a simple plumbing compression olive after that. Cheap as.
Not ideal for nylon tubing though.
I also seen this when I was in Malta at the rear of a Cossie....surprised me a little.
Interesting use of pneumatic fittings and nylon tubing ( same tubing I used , its rated at 10 bar, so will cope with fuel systems ok )
These fittings usually come in 1/8 or 1/4 BSP threads, with the relevant push in end for metric hose.
Although in this instance, they have simply used a push on 8mm Tee, and pushed it onto the 8mm steel pump output, and teed into an 8mm nylon line. This car was a white 3 door, T67 turbo, 40psi lol, and ran mid 11's, full street car, Skyline gearbox/4wd !!! These guys are mad
Nifty bits of work. Although I am a little shocked to see they work with fuel.
Such hose is very easy to route to the front of the car ( avoiding heat if possible of course )
Weld on some sort of 1/4 BSP adaptor onto the fuel rail, and it would make for a very easy pump to rail solution.
I also used nylon return line when I was RV8. Again, its easy, and this is low pressure, so normal hose and hose clips work fine.
