dizzy help
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You shouldn't have a condenser.
the only thing going to the - on the coil should be the dizzy/amp and the rev counter if your using one. There shouldn't be a ground as the ground from the dizzy is what is used to fire the coil. If you put a ground on the coil you are effectively short circuiting the the dizzy so you wont get a spark.
the only thing going to the - on the coil should be the dizzy/amp and the rev counter if your using one. There shouldn't be a ground as the ground from the dizzy is what is used to fire the coil. If you put a ground on the coil you are effectively short circuiting the the dizzy so you wont get a spark.
There should be a +12V feed from the igntion switch going to the amp +ve and the coil +ve
There should be a wire between amp -ve and coil -ve. And this goes to the tacho too as Marki says.
If you want to check the coil is working, put +12 on one side (turn the igntion on), then remove the wire from the -ve side and temporarily connect the -ve terminal to ground. When you disconnect this temporary wire from ground you'll get a spark. Be careful of both the spark, and the voltage on this temporary wire - the -ve terminal of the coil will get up to about 400V when the spark occurs.
A thought - you need to check that the amplifier is well grounded to the chassis.
Chris.
There should be a wire between amp -ve and coil -ve. And this goes to the tacho too as Marki says.
If you want to check the coil is working, put +12 on one side (turn the igntion on), then remove the wire from the -ve side and temporarily connect the -ve terminal to ground. When you disconnect this temporary wire from ground you'll get a spark. Be careful of both the spark, and the voltage on this temporary wire - the -ve terminal of the coil will get up to about 400V when the spark occurs.
A thought - you need to check that the amplifier is well grounded to the chassis.
Chris.
--
Series IIA 4.6 V8
R/R P38 4.6 V8
R/R L405 4.4 SDV8
Series IIA 4.6 V8
R/R P38 4.6 V8
R/R L405 4.4 SDV8
Ok brilliant thanks for that.
well i have been and bought another new coil. still nothing .
someone told me that when i crank the engine the voltage on the - side of the coil should pulse drop off and then back up to the 12 v. which it is not doing it drops to 11.5v until i stop turning the key then it comes back up to 12.4v it does not pulse.
is this right if so what controls that bit.
thanks
well i have been and bought another new coil. still nothing .
someone told me that when i crank the engine the voltage on the - side of the coil should pulse drop off and then back up to the 12 v. which it is not doing it drops to 11.5v until i stop turning the key then it comes back up to 12.4v it does not pulse.
is this right if so what controls that bit.
thanks
Read this:
http://www.kronjaeger.com/hv/hv/src/ign/index.html
The switch, capacitor & resistor on the diagram (1st circuit diagram) are all contained within the amplifier. You can see that the coil has three connections, one +12, one to the amplifier and one to the spark plugs.
The amplifier has 3 connections, +12 (to power it), ground, and the wire to the coil -ve. It will also have a connection of some sort to the distributor to pick up when to fire the coil.
As to your question, using a meter to look for a changing voltage, it depends a lot on the meter as to how it will behave as the voltage is changing rapidly and the meter may not be able to keep up. I would say that +11.5 whilst cranking suggests that the amp is not connected correctly or is duff because I expect the battery voltage drops to 11.5V whilst cranking as well........Prove this by disconnecting the coil -ve and doing the same test......
Chris.
http://www.kronjaeger.com/hv/hv/src/ign/index.html
The switch, capacitor & resistor on the diagram (1st circuit diagram) are all contained within the amplifier. You can see that the coil has three connections, one +12, one to the amplifier and one to the spark plugs.
The amplifier has 3 connections, +12 (to power it), ground, and the wire to the coil -ve. It will also have a connection of some sort to the distributor to pick up when to fire the coil.
As to your question, using a meter to look for a changing voltage, it depends a lot on the meter as to how it will behave as the voltage is changing rapidly and the meter may not be able to keep up. I would say that +11.5 whilst cranking suggests that the amp is not connected correctly or is duff because I expect the battery voltage drops to 11.5V whilst cranking as well........Prove this by disconnecting the coil -ve and doing the same test......
Chris.
--
Series IIA 4.6 V8
R/R P38 4.6 V8
R/R L405 4.4 SDV8
Series IIA 4.6 V8
R/R P38 4.6 V8
R/R L405 4.4 SDV8
also if it's an EFI , the ECU trigger wire from the neg terminal on the coil toojrv8 wrote:wow wrote:hi,
and just an earth and a - going to the dizzy amp on the - side of the coil.
You do not need to connect an earth to the (-) side of the coil.
The wiring should be :-
Amp (-) to coil -
Amp + to coil +
+12v to coil +
tacho to coil -
Regards
Jim