Noisy tappet? - something not right here...

[moppit]

Finally getting the engine running better but things seem a tad rattly. In fact more so on one side almost like a tappet is not adjusted correctly.

I know a std V8 has hydraulic lifters but the trouble is I'm not sure on the history of the engine - I got it for a very good price (much less than shown here!), it had been professionally built by a local V8 specialist in Hampshire who has since moved elsewhere - so no chance to get history.

The engine has a Typhoon cam, adjustable push rods which hints that maybe some skimming was done. All I've got is the receipt that lists the work...

Also removed a rocker cover...

FWIW Oil pressure is great and its got 20W50 in it. So far only done about 100 miles since installing.

My question is this - how do I check push rods are set correctly? With this cam should I expect it to be a bit rattly?

Any advice most welcome gents....

Simon

[moppit]

And if anyone can explain how I post images that would be great too

[sidecar]

With adjustable pushrods its easy to set the pre-load, fome memory one whole turn of the adjuster is worth 30 thou of pre-load. So to set each one up makesure that the follower is on the base circle of the cam, then carefully adjust the pushrod so that there is no play in the valve train but no pre-load either, then turn the adjuster 5 'flats', that will give you 25 thou of pre-load. Lock off the adjuster and move along to the next one repeating the process. You do not even have to empty the lifters of oil has they can bleed down when the push rod is adjusted as long as they are sitting on the base circle of the cam.

[garrycol]

20w50 is too heavy for a new engine - should only be used in old worn out engines. Should be something like 15 or 20W40.

Here, you can buy a range of oil from most manufacturers marketed as "Old Engine Oil" which is 20w50 and aimed older classic engines with dodgy engines and high mileage engines that are a bit fumey and rattly.

Maybe this is the cause of your issue - put the correct grade oil in and see if you still have the same issue.

Garry

[moppit]

Turns out it was a leaky exhaust manifold! Removed and adjusted the gaskets on one bank and the loud noise has gone! Things still a bit tappety though so may have a play to check clearances.

For the oil just about everywhere else I have read says use 20W50? Ideally valvoline? Thought that was what it was designed for?

[garrycol]

For the oil just about everywhere else I have read says use 20W50? Ideally valvoline? Thought that was what it was designed for?

Have a read here http://www.v8forum.co.uk/forum/viewtopi ... highlight=

20w50 is for old worn out engines not newly rebuild engines.

[vanquishspirit]

I don't think that is quite correct. I have an early 3.5 Range Rover and the manual and handbook clearly state 20/50 oil.

[mgbv8]

Same here!!
If the engine manual say 20/50 then use 20/50.

[garrycol]

If the manual relevant to your specific engine says use that oil then by all means use it. However I googled the lube chart for Range Rover 3.5 engines and it only lists that grade engine oil for extremely hot climates.

My mid 70s 3.5 engine lists OMD 80 (mil engine) which has an equivalent of 10W/30 which is specified for colder climates.

A good article is here which talks about using 20w/50 for older worn engines and recommends 15w/40 for the UK. It also cautions about Synthetic Oils http://www.roversd1.nl/sd1web/oil.html

But hey it is your engine go with what your happy with. Me I am staying with 15w/40 as I have done for 100,000km. My new 4.6 after it has run in will also be using it.

Garry

[DaveEFI]

With the SD1, the series one had 20/50 as the UK standard. That was changed to 10/40 with series 2 cars, so from about 1982. I'd have expected Range Rover to be the same?