1982 RR V8 3.5 not starting after rebuild

[Darkspeed]

So with running in and breaking in the cam, my understanding is this:
1.get engine running
2.set timing with strobe adjusting carbs tuning and get engine running smoothly.
3.run engine at 2000rpm for 4-5 minutes and check for leaks etc.
3.run in engine at 2000rpm for 20 minutes to break in the cam.
4.road test run at low rpm and change oil and filter after 4 hours of initial total running.
5. run in for 500 miles and increase rpm gradually
6 change oil and filter again...

Does this all sound right to you???

Can do - I would forget the 500 miles - that's for (old) new cars for running in all the bearings wheel / prop etc. And was also so that all crashes were low speed when the assembly line left things undone. Hence the need to get it back to the dealer after 500 miles.

There are many schools of thought about engine break ins - once the initial break in is done use it normally and then change the oil after 50 miles.

There are other schools that say the break in of new pistons and rings is better with plenty of pressure behind the rings - running up at maximum torque for a few minutes and then ease off - repeat for a dozen times and job done change oil and drive it as you wish.

Best go with what you are personally happy with.

[sidecar]

I'm with Darkspeed on this, pottering around for 500 miles will just glaze up the bores without the rings bedding into to them. You need to load the engine up around 10 times by accelerating hard in a high gear A heavy car helps here, then back off the throttle but leave the clutch out so that the wheels drive the engine (assuming that you have manual transmission), this causes a high vacuum in the combustion chambers which sucks oil up past the rings, this cleans and cools them. You only have a short window of time to do this before the honing marks have lost their sharp edges, the edges are required in order to 'file' the rings so that they are a gas tight fit in the bores.

Once that lot been done I'd change the oil then just drive the car normally but without holding the revs too high for long, also try to avoid a steady throttle for too long. The idea is to hold off the glazing process for as long as possible. After a couple of hundred miles its done a dusted, just drive the thing! AJMHO

[mgbv8]

I'm with Darkspeed on this, pottering around for 500 miles will just glaze up the bores without the rings bedding into to them. You need to load the engine up around 10 times by accelerating hard in a high gear A heavy car helps here, then back off the throttle but leave the clutch out so that the wheels drive the engine (assuming that you have manual transmission), this causes a high vacuum in the combustion chambers which sucks oil up past the rings, this cleans and cools them. You only have a short window of time to do this before the honing marks have lost their sharp edges, the edges are required in order to 'file' the rings so that they are a gas tight fit in the bores.

Once that lot been done I'd change the oil then just drive the car normally but without holding the revs too high for long, also try to avoid a steady throttle for too long. The idea is to hold off the glazing process for as long as possible. After a couple of hundred miles its done a dusted, just drive the thing! AJMHO

Same here!
Whenever I have built new Rover V8 race engines I do the bedding in on the trailer for 20 mins or so. Then I drive it around the pits to clock up a few miles and then on track for a couple of gentle runs. Then I do oil and filter change and go racing

[R0vers]

Thanks for all your help guys

I will set about braking her in on Saturday morning and hopefully have the time to road test too.....

Im hoping too that my neighbours go out for the morning......

[sidecar]

Thanks for all your help guys

I will set about braking her in on Saturday morning and hopefully have the time to road test too.....

Im hoping too that my neighbours go out for the morning......

You can break the cam in whilst actually driving the car, in some ways this is better because the engine isn't just sitting there glazing up the bores under no load at 2000 RPM. If you drive the car you can attempt to keep the revs up over 2k and carry out the ring bedding in process at the same time. Of course this could all go a bit pear shaped if something goes wrong and you are now 10 miles from home!

[SimpleSimon]

Thanks for all your help guys

I will set about braking her in on Saturday morning and hopefully have the time to road test too.....

Im hoping too that my neighbours go out for the morning......

You can break the cam in whilst actually driving the car, in some ways this is better because the engine isn't just sitting there glazing up the bores under no load at 2000 RPM. If you drive the car you can attempt to keep the revs up over 2k and carry out the ring bedding in process at the same time. Of course this could all go a bit pear shaped if something goes wrong and you are now 10 miles from home!

Good advice but I suggest 10 minutes cam break in shut down (no idleing) check for coolant/oil leaks/levels etc then stay local short and long full throttle bursts (like suggested already) no silly RPM or screaming the motor IMO you have a 50/100 mile window to break those rings in (we are talking optimal) after this bedding-in/scuffing-in slows down and once that narrow window is gone its gone its really not rocket science dont scream it & dont nanny it, but show it some work, some people will wince at this all though very few on this site but if it breaks doing this method the build was poop anyways blunt but true, like Perry says I have known many people to break a new build in on the drag strip with no issues obviously

[mgbv8]

Thanks for all your help guys

I will set about braking her in on Saturday morning and hopefully have the time to road test too.....

Im hoping too that my neighbours go out for the morning......

You can break the cam in whilst actually driving the car, in some ways this is better because the engine isn't just sitting there glazing up the bores under no load at 2000 RPM. If you drive the car you can attempt to keep the revs up over 2k and carry out the ring bedding in process at the same time. Of course this could all go a bit pear shaped if something goes wrong and you are now 10 miles from home!

Good advice but I suggest 10 minutes cam break in shut down (no idleing) check for coolant/oil leaks/levels etc then stay local short and long full throttle bursts (like suggested already) no silly RPM or screaming the motor IMO you have a 50/100 mile window to break those rings in (we are talking optimal) after this bedding-in/scuffing-in slows down and once that narrow window is gone its gone its really not rocket science dont scream it & dont nanny it, but show it some work, some people will wince at this all though very few on this site but if it breaks doing this method the build was poop anyways blunt but true, like Perry says I have known many people to break a new build in on the drag strip with no issues obviously

Spot on as far as I'm concerned Simon I do just that. The initial few mins static while the engine is heating through and doing the leak checks etc. Then give it a little load for a while before taking it for some gentle road use / track use. I know that my oil change after this short time of running may seem a bit premature but I feel its best for my application to drain the oil while hot after this first run and then put in new oil with a new filter and a fresh shot of Hi Zinc additive. Then I restart the engine, make sure I have oil pressure and when the engine has idled for a few mins up to about 60C I am confident that I can give it the beans These Rovers may be old but they are not made of porcelain eh
Pel

[R0vers]

Timing all set today with the strobe and have run her for 20 minutes getting upto working temperature. I found that 4degrees btdc was optimum. A few cooling hose clips needed tightening, but other than that, she looks and Sounds lovely,ready for the road test!

[R0vers]

Timing all set today with the strobe and have run her for 20 minutes getting upto working temperature. I found that 4degrees btdc was optimum. A few cooling hose clips needed tightening, but other than that, she looks and Sounds lovely,ready for the road test!

just to close this thread now - Engine has been run in and despite a couple of loose manifold bolts - she is running as sweet as a sweet thing. Still doing small trips to build up my confidence with her - its just finding the time!!!!

[mgbv8]

Well Done that man

Perry