1982 RR V8 3.5 not starting after rebuild

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Darkspeed
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Post by Darkspeed »

DaveEFI wrote:...

So where do you go from there?....
I should think that even with just a basic knowledge of cam timing you should be able to get the cam timed in to a tooth without a cam wheel.

Stock cams inlet all shut between 70 and 77 degrees After Bottom Dead Centre so should be that difficult.

With that in mind it should be quite easy to work out how far the cam is out.

I recon 90 is a good guess as its 165 ABDC - which is no compression valve kiss territory. And an easy mistake


4.5L V8 Ginetta G27
sidecar
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Post by sidecar »

Darkspeed wrote:
DaveEFI wrote:...

So where do you go from there?....
I should think that even with just a basic knowledge of cam timing you should be able to get the cam timed in to a tooth without a cam wheel.

Stock cams inlet all shut between 70 and 77 degrees After Bottom Dead Centre so should be that difficult.

With that in mind it should be quite easy to work out how far the cam is out.

I recon 90 is a good guess as its 165 ABDC - which is no compression valve kiss territory. And an easy mistake

Wrong piston at TDC when it was timed up? :(
R0vers
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Post by R0vers »

sidecar wrote:
Darkspeed wrote:
DaveEFI wrote:...

So where do you go from there?....
I should think that even with just a basic knowledge of cam timing you should be able to get the cam timed in to a tooth without a cam wheel.

Stock cams inlet all shut between 70 and 77 degrees After Bottom Dead Centre so should be that difficult.

With that in mind it should be quite easy to work out how far the cam is out.

I recon 90 is a good guess as its 165 ABDC - which is no compression valve kiss territory. And an easy mistake
Wrong piston at TDC when it was timed up? :(
Tdc set on no1 (front right ) when looking at the front of the engine...
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Post by R0vers »

Darkspeed wrote:
DaveEFI wrote:...

So where do you go from there?....
I should think that even with just a basic knowledge of cam timing you should be able to get the cam timed in to a tooth without a cam wheel.

Stock cams inlet all shut between 70 and 77 degrees After Bottom Dead Centre so should be that difficult.

With that in mind it should be quite easy to work out how far the cam is out.

I recon 90 is a good guess as its 165 ABDC - which is no compression valve kiss territory. And an easy mistake
Thanks dark speed, I'll re check it all when the front cover is off....
DEVONMAN
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Post by DEVONMAN »

Now that the heads are off, it is easy to check if the camshaft timing is way out.
If there is any push rod lift when No1 is at TDC on the compression stroke then the timing is way out. This may not be true if the chain is only 1 or 2 cogs out.

If the marks on the cogs have been correctly punched in the factory, then it's almost impossible to get the timing more than one cog out provided the woodruff keys are installed.

It will be interesting to know the result after Saturday.
1950 A40 Devon Hotrod with 5.0 twin turbo RV8.
EDIS8 wasted spark, Holley Injection.
Been as far as the Moon and back in 57 years of driving. Same Car, 5 engine upgrades !!!


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Post by R0vers »

Update!

I have good and bad news...

Good news is that I've found the cause of all my problems. I had originally accidentally fitted the camshaft sproket back to front and the "mark" that I had thought was the pointer, and therefore had lined up with the crank gear,was something else!!. I remember when doing it is wasn't clear to me as it was nothing like the original cam sprocket markings.

Having been at it all day, it's now all back together again,bar the plenum and the carbs. I have briefly tested the compression on no1,which gave me a reading of 160 psi, Much better than 0....

The bad news is that I feel like a right old numpty, as I had thought I had done it all correctly the first time around....

Lesson learnt and although I've run out it time today to complete the reassemble. I have LOTS of reassurance now that she will run! Oil pressure is good and all lifters,pushrods and rockers are all working nicely.....

Thank you once again for everyone's input to date.. :oops:
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Post by DEVONMAN »

The real good news is that you got away with not damaging the pistons.
However, you may have strained the timing chain slightly as I think the offset of the cog is different when flipped.

Anyway, good luck with the fire up.
1950 A40 Devon Hotrod with 5.0 twin turbo RV8.
EDIS8 wasted spark, Holley Injection.
Been as far as the Moon and back in 57 years of driving. Same Car, 5 engine upgrades !!!


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Post by unstable load »

R0vers wrote:Good news is that I've found the cause of all my problems. I had originally accidentally fitted the camshaft sproket back to front and the "mark" that I had thought was the pointer, and therefore had lined up with the crank gear,was something else!!.

The bad news is that I feel like a right old numpty

Lesson learnt
Chalk it up to school fees. Very very few people haven't made some sort of balls-up on a job, fewer yet have owned up in public.
Have a nice shot of your favourite tipple to celebrate.
Cheers,
John
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Post by v8250 »

ROvers, that's great news, and as above, we've all made errors like this; shows we're all human. Good luck with the start up...
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Post by sidecar »

Nice one, I'm sure it will run as sweet as a sweet thing!
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Post by sidecar »

Double post!
Last edited by sidecar on Sun Mar 13, 2016 11:33 am, edited 1 time in total.
sidecar
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Post by sidecar »

Tripple post!
R0vers
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Post by R0vers »

It's alive!!!!

Need to strobe the timing, but she is running and I am over the moon!!!!!
DEVONMAN
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Post by DEVONMAN »

R0vers wrote:It's alive!!!!

Need to strobe the timing, but she is running and I am over the moon!!!!!
Brilliant news.
Just shows the 13th is not unlucky for all of us.

Don't forget to break the cam in etc.
1950 A40 Devon Hotrod with 5.0 twin turbo RV8.
EDIS8 wasted spark, Holley Injection.
Been as far as the Moon and back in 57 years of driving. Same Car, 5 engine upgrades !!!


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Post by R0vers »

So with running in and breaking in the cam, my understanding is this:
1.get engine running
2.set timing with strobe adjusting carbs tuning and get engine running smoothly.
3.run engine at 2000rpm for 4-5 minutes and check for leaks etc.
3.run in engine at 2000rpm for 20 minutes to break in the cam.
4.road test run at low rpm and change oil and filter after 4 hours of initial total running.
5. run in for 500 miles and increase rpm gradually
6 change oil and filter again...

Does this all sound right to you???
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