thanks

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I made the prop for my Morris myself, using an SD1 prop and a Sherpa prop. Totally coincidentally they are the exact same size tubing, though one is a cv joint on a UJ. I made a 6" long steel sleeve tube that tapped lightly into both props to line them up and I welded round it, also added a couple of keyhole welds on each tube.v8saph wrote:thanks guys it needs to be as cheap as poss as its just a track toy not a daily drive if it just needs shortning i have a guy that can do it i wil have to way it up when the limp is in
Hows it holding up paul i need it strong enough for real hard launches etcPaul B wrote:I made the prop for my Morris myself, using an SD1 prop and a Sherpa prop. Totally coincidentally they are the exact same size tubing, though one is a cv joint on a UJ. I made a 6" long steel sleeve tube that tapped lightly into both props to line them up and I welded round it, also added a couple of keyhole welds on each tube.v8saph wrote:thanks guys it needs to be as cheap as poss as its just a track toy not a daily drive if it just needs shortning i have a guy that can do it i wil have to way it up when the limp is in
I was wondering about the need for a slider joint? The diff and engine/gearbox are both bush-mounted to the chassis in the Sierra, so neither will move around much. I ask because my other car, a Triumph Herald, has a bush-mounted diff and solid propshaft with no slider. Is the slider to avoid stressing the UJs with movement of the engine?ian.stewart wrote:I think you will end up with having to get one made, as the LT77 has a flange on the back of the box, and as you are aware the diff also has a flange, so the prop you need HAS to have a built in slider joint, I have never had much success with the SDI CV prop, Most places that make props have the sliders in stock so it should not be a problem