Rover V8 build for complete novice.

truckcab79 · Post by **truckcab79** » Thu Feb 12, 2015 1:05 pm

Hi there. First post aside from my intro

Currently in the process of a very slow rebuild of a 3.5 rover V8. Engine is to go into a Series 3 landrover at some point in the future. Don't get much time to work on it and there's no rush, so don't expect rapid results.

Engine is from a Range Rover Classic and engine number of 34117716 means that it is an 8.25:1 which is what it was sold to me as.

......however the engine block under all the gunk and grime was stamped as 8.13:1, and on stripping down the tops of the Pistons are stamped the same. On that basis I'm pretty sure that's what I've got. Phoned Rimmer Bros to ask why this might be but just got a 'dunno mate'. Anyone come across this before?

Doesn't bother me what the engine is to be honest. This is going to be a basic, budget build right back to standard spec. Not looking to build a fire-breathing monster, and think for my first build it will keep things simpler.

So far the plan is a strip down, hone bores, replace bearings, new cam, new lifters, new timing chain and wheel, and a refurb of the original Stromberg carbs. My mileage on this vehicle is tiny. Lucky to do 500 miles a year. Might do more with it with a V8 in it though!

Here's a link to my thread on another forum. Hopefully you can all see the pics as it will save me redoing it all. If you can't without being a member then I'll post a few here. You can see I've pretty much stripped it down at this stage, and done some cosmetic stuff. From now it it should just be rebuilding.

http://forum.landrovernet.com/showthrea ... rm-rebuild

DaveEFI · Post by **DaveEFI** » Thu Feb 12, 2015 2:57 pm

There was a low compression version made for the Sherpa van etc. Something like 120 bhp as opposed to the SD1 155 or so. Probably to run on the old 2 star petrol.

You'd probably be able to find a set of good used standard 9.35:1 pistons for not a lot and just use new rings. Instant power and torque increase for free - and likely better MPG too.

truckcab79 · Post by **truckcab79** » Thu Feb 12, 2015 3:28 pm

I'll leave a saved search on eBay just in case a set turn up but to be honest I'm going to try and re-use everything I've got where possible. Likewise with the carbs. It's got a pair of stromberg 175 CD 2's. I've read they're not the easiest to set up, but I've got them so I'll be using them.

DaveEFI · Post by **DaveEFI** » Thu Feb 12, 2015 4:59 pm

I'd be surprised if someone on here doesn't have a set of pistons lying around. With con-rods would be even better.

mgbv8 · Post by **mgbv8** » Thu Feb 12, 2015 8:29 pm

I think I may have a full set in the crap pile somewhere?
Show us a picture of your pistons will you.

When I had a big clearout I donated 4 sets of 3500 rods and pistons to a mate. But I think I saw a box I must have missed earlier on when I was looking for some rockers for Ratwing, the box may have a full set of old rods and pistons inside. If they are right for what you need you can have them for the cost of postage. Where do you live? You could collect if you are near Milton keynes

Perry

truckcab79 · Post by **truckcab79** » Thu Feb 12, 2015 8:54 pm

Before
http://i1162.photobucket.com/albums/q54 ... 5EBF92.jpg

After a quick spin in the dishwasher (wife was out obviously!) and a light clean with a dremel and brass wheel.

http://i1162.photobucket.com/albums/q54 ... 39346B.jpg

http://i1162.photobucket.com/albums/q54 ... 42DA5B.jpg

If anyone could tell me how to insert pics into thread Id appreciate it. Personally always prefer to see them rather than links.

That's a very generous offer on the pistons. Sods law I was in Birmingham last weekend but not up that way again for a while I don't think, so if you could let me know if you find them and they're in good condition id appreciate it if you let me know a postage cost. Not wanting to get in too deep before i even start, is it literally as simple a swap as that then? Just use the higher compression Pistons instead of my originals? Nothing else to change?

And I'm in Borehamwood, Herts, though spend most of my life working in Bracknell, Berks.

[/img]

mgbv8 · Post by **mgbv8** » Thu Feb 12, 2015 10:07 pm

Open an account on photobucket.

When you UPLOAD a picture to there you have the option to add the pics on here as pics and not links.

Pel

ChrisJC · Post by **ChrisJC** » Thu Feb 12, 2015 10:10 pm

The only thing I would suggest going away from standard is to get the heads skimmed by about 0.5mm and fit composite head gaskets and stretch bolts.

Otherwise you've got a pretty straightforward job there.

Chris.

mgbv8 · Post by **mgbv8** » Thu Feb 12, 2015 10:26 pm

Truck!!
See if you can put a straight edge across the piston crown and then measure the depth of the bowl in the piston and let me know how deep the bowls are.

The ones I have may also be low comp for an MGB V8 ??

Perry

truckcab79 · Post by **truckcab79** » Thu Feb 12, 2015 10:46 pm

Will do. But will be a few days before I get a chance to do so.

chodjinn · Post by **chodjinn** » Fri Feb 13, 2015 7:38 am

Like others have said you should be able to pick up some 9:35 pistons for peanuts, and definitely worth it. Everything else you have listed seems good, only advice I would give is if you are replacing the cam, fit a high torque 'stumppuller' type, again definitely worth it particularly in a big old landy

truckcab79 · Post by **truckcab79** » Fri Feb 13, 2015 8:21 am

Not sure if it's the same thing as installing a 'stump puller' type, but I've been told that the standard cam from a 3.9 is a straight swap and a good alternative. As said before, no desire to deviate from standard but I need a new cam anyway so if it's as easy as that then I might as well do so.

On a different subject my first job of rebuilding the engine will be honing the cylinders. Can someone point me in the direction of the correct tool in terms of what grit stone I should be using, and also a decent and well priced supplier. Loads on eBay but I need to be sure that one brands 'medium' grit is the same as another (and what grit should I be using). I have seen ball hones used on YouTube also. They seem pretty foolproof, but the few suppliers I can find are really expensive, and mostly seem to be stateside.

A nod in the direction of a good YouTube video would be appreciated in terms of technique, speed of drill, speed of movement etc.

SuperV8 · Post by **SuperV8** » Fri Feb 13, 2015 11:06 am

Looks like you already have a photobucket account;
Just paste the IMG. code from the share links section to add the photos to your posts.

While you're cleaning/rebuilding I would have a measure of your rocker gear. Worn shafts/rockers can help contribute to low oil pressure.
Have a look at this post:
http://www.v8forum.co.uk/forum/viewtopi ... c&start=15

Tom.

truckcab79 · Post by **truckcab79** » Mon Feb 16, 2015 9:28 am

mgbv8 wrote:Truck!!
See if you can put a straight edge across the piston crown and then measure the depth of the bowl in the piston and let me know how deep the bowls are.

The ones I have may also be low comp for an MGB V8 ??

Perry

Just measured the bowl on top of the 8.13 piston and at its deepest point it's 5.0mm, or 5.05mm if we're being fussy.

mgbv8 · Post by **mgbv8** » Mon Feb 16, 2015 8:25 pm

Looks like the ones I have are also 8:1 low comp pistons then

Pel