The V8 Owners Forum -

Bodger, in one of his replies to my original post on overheating, stated to check the hoses ie "check and make sure you havn't connected the hoes on the back of the water pump housing to the blanked off outlet .. on some there are 2 stubs pipes , only one is open ... i only know becuse i did it...

check and make sure you havn't connected the hoes on the back of the water pump housing to the blanked off outlet .. on some there are 2 stubs pipes , only one is open ... i only know becuse i did it :roll: Ok now you've got me wondering. Looking down on the back of the pump there are 2 pipes, both...

Seems to be a lot better now the rad is hot its getting scarily close to 190+ degc on the gauge though, think that its due to the megasquirt needing set up, seems to be overfueling, but thats another post.

Thanks for the help

is your cabin heater on? If it is there are times when the flow through the heater matrix is more than through the radiator Try closing the heater off or "mole gripping" the pipe to the heater to force the water through the rad IAn Just removed the stat, didn't open properly, so replaced ...

the last thing I did last night was to remove the top hose from the rad, lift the hose high and secure it, and try to fill the engine block through the thermostat. the level dropped in the hose over a couple of hours so must be flowly slowly into the engine. So I think both of you chrisjc and DEVONM...

just fitted a rr 3.5 engine in a stag, ran it up but within minutes it started to run hot, would of expected this to take 10-15 minutes, the temp gauge was rising rapidly really quickly. The rad has a new 4 core matrix. This feels cold in every part of the rad top/bottom etc. upon several start ups ...

Ged, I meant my prompt in jest, apologies if it annoyed you. Cant thank you enough. Absolute star.
mick

c'mon, still waiting for the size! Anybody know?
mick

Does anyone know the size of the thread of the oil level alarm on the rover 3.5 SD1 sump. Its fitted it to an engine thats already in the car so cant go to a nuts and bolts company. The alarm itself is missing, dont want to buy and fit one. I just need to blank it off. I've spoken to Rimmer bros who...

Tremendous, Thanks
Mick

Unfortunately I'm in inverness, there is a precision engineering place nearby but as with most things up here they are rediculously expensive. I really need to lower the front of the car next as the RV8 is about 50kg lighter than the TV8. So an upgrade the car brake and suspension poly bushes etc sh...

Well I think I'm starting to get me head around this power thing after the good advice and a bit of research. So: The viper cam gives a small increase in performance without the need for head rework, due to the heads max valve lift of .44", of which the cam gives .43". And as far as I know...

I've just been told my heads are stock SD1 with comtec gaskets.
The Cam comes as part of a kit from Real Steel, its a Viper Hurricane cam with shimmed Roads Lifters stock push rods, and Hyvo chain and steel gears.

Mick

My car is a triumph stag rebuilt ready for the implant of a Rover 3.5 for the open road. Looking to improve the standard power in my RR 3.5 with a CR 9.35, been offered a new "hot cam" with Rhodes lifters from a mate, cannot seem to find any real info online that I as a layman can understa...

I'm deliberately going to a Rover for the extra power and feel that the cast route (even though they are quieter Chris) will sufficate the engine as opposed to tubular will let the engine breathe much better, (I take your point about putting the pulse tuning etc out TC), I might have bodge a bit wit...