The V8 Owners Forum -

Hello, i'm new to this site and to the RV8.
I bourght a RV8 3.5 off ebay for very cheaply with the prospect of fitting it into an Opel Manta.
Looking through this forum for my engine code I found that it's in a different place (next to bellhousing) so makes it an early engine (840).
So I have an old 1967 Rover P5B engine with the high compresion pistons (10.5:1) but small valve heads.

I have taken it allmost to bits and found that the cam shaft is nackerd but the followers are not and were easly removed. The bores arn't scored and have a very minimal rim on the tops and havn't sunken.

Is it wise that I source the later heads with larger valves and hardend seats?

Here are some pics of my progress.

there are a few things you can do to improve this engine.

1. Change the heads to newer ones which is probably the cheapest and easiest way to get power you will ever get.

2. Change the front cover to a later SD1 cover. This will give you a better oil pump and let you fit the next step plus you get a better front crank seal.

3. Fit the later electronic dizzy. can only be done if you fit a newer front cover or will will have to use a mallory or something like that.

4. You can also change the pistons for later 9.75:1 pistons. They are stronger and the lower compression makes it easier to run on pump fuel. This can cost a bit and really isn't a must do just an idea.

In short 1 and 2 are really good things to do 3 and 4 are good ideas but you dont have to .

Thanks for you reply,

Would the that be the later type crank driven pump?

I am looking for later type heads at the moment but think I will stick with the 10.5:1 CR.

Will be removing the pistons tomorrow and then have the block dunked.

no that's the very late/last front cover. They cost a fortune and aren't a straight fit. The cover I am on about belongs an SD1 or if you can fit it in a range rover but the water pump is higher on them and they might not fit whatever your fitting the engine in. The Pump is the same design just improved a good deal and bigger.

Ok, so could I just not order a new pump and cover specifing an SD1?

And then I need to source an electronic points disi from an SD1? I think my disi has CB points.

The engine so far looks in very good nick, tomorow I will be able to check the crank journals and piston clearances, i'm hoping for the best.


Is it worth oversizing the bores with rings to match or just de-glaze it?

dicky wrote:Ok, so could I just not order a new pump and cover specifing an SD1?

And then I need to source an electronic points disi from an SD1? I think my disi has CB points.

The engine so far looks in very good nick, tomorow I will be able to check the crank journals and piston clearances, i'm hoping for the best.


Is it worth oversizing the bores with rings to match or just de-glaze it?

You will get an SD1 cover on ebay but not a new one they are very rare now but replace the pump gears for new ones and your good to go.

Any of the electronic dizzys will fit try and stay clear of the Opus one though. Have a read through the forum you will see what I mean.

If you oversize/rebore you need new pistons not just rings if your doing that then definitely go for the 9.75:1 pistons. Whether you need to do anything other than hone will depend on how they measure up.

I should add that when you change your cam you have to change the followers even although you think they are ok. If you don't your new cam will have a very short life. If you already know this then just ignore this post.

Cheers, yeah I took em out and will be discarding them.

I will proberbly be sticking with a stock cam for the moment.

Is it possible to use the composite headgaskets on re-assembly as I have high enough compresion to spare a few when fitting a thicker composite one?

yes you can use comp gaskets.

Personally I would do a quick costing, the price or cam kit is pretty much the same as getting something like a kent 214 and high rev lifters, I know the steel timing gear is cheaper than the stock nylon replacement one and the chain is much better. Some 0216 heads may need the guides ground down slightly (easily done with a vernier and a grinder) and you will need to re ship for the lifters. A quick rehone to restore the bores and comp head gaskets. And you will have a nice perky introduction to rovers. For the higher compression you should think of upgrading the ignition but htere are meny people running points and doing fine. If I remember corectly the P5 had something akin to a remore oil filter plate on the pump. I may be wrong there though. However I would cost the components up first. And do your measurements for clearences before buying any parts.
The lifters mushroom when worn and is usually the reason they are hard to remove, I would also chect the bores and take some fine emery cloth to them as it;s unusual for a rover to have a sticking lifter, it's usually the bore on the block causing the 'sticking'.

I have been pricing it up using realsteel price list, the std cam comes in a kit with followers and timing chain for £128 which I think is a fair price.

Havn't bourght a sausage yet until I am done with my measureing.

Cheers for all your help, you all seem a frendly bunch.

I think most of it's been covered by now, but 1 or 2 things I ll add.

Honing is a must, however taking it to a shop to get it done will be pricey, so I did mine myslelf.
Look on the american ebay for something called a "flex hone". It's a round tool with lots of bobbles of grinding stone attached to them. Get one about 1/4 to 1/2" oversize (so for the 3.5 you'll need one with 3-3/4" spread)
Whack it in a drill on its slowest speed, dunk it in engine oil and soak the bores in engine oil, then pump the hone in and out of te bores quickly - the aim of the game is to get the cross-hatchings as close to 90* spread as possible.
My tool including shipping was £35. The local engine shop wanted £15 +VAT per bore to hone mine.
That's a lot of money saved and (if I do say so myself) it makes a lovely job of it too.
Just don't go too crazy or you'll remove too much of teh surface and get blow-by on the rings.

If you're after a little more power than stock but don't want to get a ridiculous cam, the one from a 3.9 is a slightly more aggressive grind and will give you a few extra horses for the same cost.
If you're going composite (recommended) then tappet preload adjustment is a must.

HTH
Tom.

For the composite gaskets, you can skim about 0.5mm from the heads to compensate for the thicker gasket.

There's a thread somewhere with a picture of the dimensions.

Chris.

Tom
Is the bobbly thing the same as a glazebuster? I used one on my first engine a few years back and it was great. I cant remember where I bought it, and now I cant find it!

It may have been from Northern tools near Southampton come to think of it. I think it was about 40 quid. It has 3 spring loaded oil stones on it. Same procedure as you said. Oil and a slow drill.

Its one of these

http://www.justoffbase.co.uk/Tool-Shop? ... ze+breaker