The V8 Owners Forum -

Where do I start - I now have my 4ltr block at home as I need to start fitting it to the chassis.

So, lots of questions.....

1). The oil sump pick up - My set up uses a non distributor serp cover, the oil pump cover is the one with the pick up pipe connected to it. So this means that the block has a pick up port cast into it that is not going to be used. Assuming that a fair few have this set up, Rover must have blocked the cast in pick up port with something...Anyone know what?...or do I just make something?.....See pic:


2). My set up will need an oil cooler, and from a previous post, it would seen that I might as well use the oil cooler connections on the timing cover...Problem is, I have a vague recollection that I read somewhere that one of the relief valves needs removing (there are two)...or did I..don't know cant remember....can anyone advise?.

3). On the subject of the relief valve in the timing cover, I've seen pics of a relief valve with a tube inside it....My timing cover does not have this tube...anyone know what it's for, and if it's needed?

4). What a dipstick! - so, the block is new, and never used....where the hell does the dipstick go, I see no holes / casting for it's entry point. The sump gives away no clues either. Try As I might on good old google images, I cant find a pic that shows where the dipstick enters the block....And just to prove it:-) here are some pics of the block.....

I thought that hole in your first pic is the hole the dipstick comes out of in the sump.

The tube on the side of the casting in pic three is where the dip stick goes through from the hole at the rear of the engine number pad at the top centre of the passenger side of the block.

Garry

That hole in your 1st pic is used with an oil pick-up with a dizzy intermediate serp front cover on all RV8 TVR cars with a different sump to yours

The hole in the first pic definitely goes up into an oilway so can't be for the dipstick....

I see what you mean about the tube on the passenger side, but the top of the tube seems to pop out into the head...I will re check this though.

Hi I see you have a lcf block, the pick up pipe on a serpentine timing chest bolts to the bottom of the chest and the pick up pipe bracket goes on to a main cap the one in your photo with a tapped hole in the middle. It attaches to the main as a stud screws in the cap then a spacer approx 1" then the Pick up pipe and a spring washer and nut. Just leave the early pick up hole this as you say is for a timing chest running a distributor, and no need to blank it off.
As you have a lcf block it won't have an engine number stamped on the block which would be on the near side if standing at the back of the engine this is where the dip stick tube goes as someone mentioned you can see the passage for it in the side of the block.
Caution though the tubes are all the same length from the block stop on the tube so from there in to the engine they are the same But!! Length varies from the stop to the top of the dip stick therefore they will read differently so make sure you have the right dipstick for the sump. Or fill with correct amount of oil and Mark the dip stick yourself Max And Min Mark.
Hope this helps a pity I have just sold my brand new sump and pick up pipe on eBay for yours. I have a brand new set front cover on eBay at the min with a brand new camshaft all from my JE motor if you are interested.
Cheers Mark.

Now confirmed the dipstick hole no number on my engine (as mark said), and I assumed the block top all went under the head...all makes sense now

Mark...As I inherited a box of bits in the purchase of the part built kit, it could easily be that some items are mis matched. So, on this and going back to the sump pick up......The timing cover supplied has the take off in the oil pump cover for the sump pick up, and as you rightly say, the engine also has a pickup hole in the casting. The sump is the older tin sump, but seems useable.

I guess the question is, with the hose in the casting, is this plumbed in anyway into the oil system?. If it is, I will simply be sucking in air, so I need to be super confident that this oil way is not connected anywhere.

I have seen the later cast sumps, which look far nicer than the old tin sumps, is this a worth while change?. engine will be going into a fast kit car, so oil surge potentially could be an issue......

Hi glad you are getting there. I am assuming your engine is going in a Westfield, alloy sumps are nice but I am always critical of ground clearance and metal sumps will take a little knock alloy sumps normally crack. My 4.6 engine same as your block a late LCF came new from John Eales serpentine set up etc. I am putting a dizzy drive on it but I am sure the oil pick up was not blanked off when it had pick up from the front cover as yours will. Ring John up but I am sure you don't blank it off I see your point tho.

Forgot to mention I am using a tin RR sump as much heavier than sd1. The sump you are showing is baffled and should be fine it is all I am using as well Richard Eales suggest this sump.I F you are track day your car, then there are some manufacturers who make nice rover v8 sumps and JohnEales uses them as well. Cheers Mark.

In answer to your question 2, if you are using an oil cooler and connecting to the 2 ports on the cover, then you don't need to change the relief valves.
Each of the 2 valves has a spring and a tube held in place by an o ring bung and circlip. The valve nearest the oil filter controls flow through the oil cooler where as the valve on the other side of the cover is the pressure relief valve.

Ahh....that brings me back to question 3)......The tubes in the relief valves....I have none...are they needed, can't find them on any parts list, and some seem not to use them....I can't even find out what they are for.

jenko,

where are you based?....same you are not local to me....

Pm me your whereabouts, see if I can help.

cheers

scott

I think the sump in the photo is a bit deep for a Westfield. I thought the recommended was an SD1 sump.

A few have gone with the flat/shallow sump that I think John Eales makes/made. Take a look at Graham Smith's website: http://www.seight.net/sump.htm

Jenko have a look at Mulberry Fabrications they build sumps for John Eales they do some cracking sumps www.mulfab.co.uk Cheers Mark.

jenko wrote:Ahh....that brings me back to question 3)......The tubes in the relief valves....I have none...are they needed, can't find them on any parts list, and some seem not to use them....I can't even find out what they are for.

I'm not 100% sure what you mean by a tube. The valves normally consist of a piston / tube pushed onto a seating by a spring?

The tube Im referring to Ive seen in a couple of pics, but having a look around, it could be an after market mod.....See pic below..right hand relief valve , looks like a small tube that fits inside the spring.


Scott, I'm in Southampton..........