The V8 Owners Forum -

DaveEFI wrote:

SimpleSimon wrote:

DaveEFI wrote:Reason I built my own - and the wiring harness etc - was I'd seen so many have problems. Building something helps understand how it works. But I do realise it's not everyone's thang. The worst possible reason to build it yourself is just to save money. You have to have an interest in doing so.

Nothing wrong with that Dave I did however build my own stim never needed it mind other than flashing firmware as I find it more stable to do this on my work server with serial port's rather than take a chance with the USB - serial converter cant be doing with data corruption and all that

If you get data corruption over your USB to serial link, I don't fancy your chances of doing any tuning. And I'm fairly certain MS verifies the base code after loading.

But I have a desktop in the workshop with a serial port so generally use that to load in new base code.

Good point Dave, never had problems with the USB/Serial converter lead (Prolific chip) but i like the belt and braces approach you get with Serial Bobtail MS1 that makes sense should have realized sooner

Sorry lads, havent had time to come on here lately. This is where the IAT correction is on the V2.1.0 codes (MS2):


Email me your spark map and I will take a look, they aren't as hard to do as people think, especially on the RV8, but its just a case of understanding whats needed at certain points. I will have to do a video on it all.

Ive done a series of dull and boring videos here on MS2/3:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BZIfhKq6Stc&list=UUXIVbfrFxQ_cV-coPaaD9SQ&index=14&feature=plcp
thanks
Phil

Spark map for Alpha_N based RV8.
Needs a little tweeking but its 90% there. This is the one I use as a base map on my ECUs.
[img]http://www.extraefi.co.uk/Pix/Spar ... .png[/img]




This is my MAP based boosted spark map in a 5.4L RV8: (MS3)

[img]http://www.extraefi.co.uk/Pix/Spar ... .png[/img]

you want me to send you my spark table mate?

Hi Phil, based on the last map am I right in thinking that using that table you have the potential to run a max of boost of around 7psi.

regards
Reg

r2d2hp wrote:Hi Phil, based on the last map am I right in thinking that using that table you have the potential to run a max of boost of around 7psi.

regards
Reg

My blower gives me 6.5PSI at 6000RPM, so the map goes up to 7ish. If it went over 7 then the spark map would simply follow the top line.
Phil

Right just found something else which is not ecu related

topok the car for a long run down the bypass to a show on Sunday,
and kept an eye on the laptop,
didn't set it up to auto tune or nothing just home screen with the gauges, and noticed after about 10-15mins on the bypass around a constant 70+mph, the cols start correction cut in firing more fuel in, then looked at the coolant gauge and was reading 69C, i think the rad is still to effiecient, and looks like im going to have to try and block more of the front intake area off to the rad,

Or the coolant sensor is faulty or not calibrated correctly.

its fine at idle and light cruise reads correct, you nail it for a bit and the coolant gauge reads lower and the gauge on the dash drops too

No thermostat? If not why not?

Coops wrote:Right just found something else which is not ecu related

topok the car for a long run down the bypass to a show on Sunday,
and kept an eye on the laptop,
didn't set it up to auto tune or nothing just home screen with the gauges, and noticed after about 10-15mins on the bypass around a constant 70+mph, the cols start correction cut in firing more fuel in, then looked at the coolant gauge and was reading 69C, i think the rad is still to effiecient, and looks like im going to have to try and block more of the front intake area off to the rad,

Don't you mean at 70mph your passenger noticed the temp on the laptop? You was obviously concentrating on the road

of course Tone

yup 88C stat fitted,
think i had a similar thing with the old vems ecu 2yrs ago, never used the car last winter as was fitting the MS so forgot about it.

I don't see how the coolant temperature as measured by the EFI sensor in the inlet manifold could drop below the thermostat temperature, if the thermostat is working. Is there an ordinary temperature gauge as well? On my SDI, those two temps as shown are pretty close. Only other thing I can think of is a massive air pocket. But my guess is the thermostat is faulty. The last one I bought from Rimmer proved so, and I fitted a genuine Land Rover part.

Looking back it appears this issue started after fitting the 4.6 engine in 2009 which I believes used the same rad as the 3.9. Did that over cool as well?

As Dave says the temp should not drop below that set by the thermostat. What purges the air from the highest point in the system; on mine I added a bleed in the pipe that went to the bottom of the inlet plenum to be sure I can remove all air from the system.

If you run the engine at the same revs as doing 70 down the bypass does the temp go up or down? Where is the thermostat fitted? On the Rave flow I posted it appears to be in the bottom hose