The V8 Owners Forum -

crayefish wrote:I should have got into BMXs...

hmm... This chap dropped in the other day looking for a glue to mend his bike frame. The carbon fibre bit had come away from the aluminium. (Not a motorbike - a pushbike as they used to be called)

I sold him some of our Black acrylic adhesive which should do the job well. I said he might probably be better off buying a new frame but he told me that a new frame was £2,500 last year, and they don't import it anymore!

The whole bike would be £4,500

I am glad I am into Rover P6s

A friend of mine bought a bycycle frame in some fancy alluminium/ magnesium allow, very light, cost £1,800 after 18 months all the welds went brittle, out riging one day the head stock fell off (well actually the whole thing just broke) going over a bump. Deposited him in the gutter giving the chap in the van behind him a chance to not to run over him. This was aparently expected (well at some stage) and aparently perfectly acceptable, he went off and paid £1,900 (this time, inflation) for a new one and quite alot more for the other bits he broke in the wreckage.
You know if I had to fork out a couple of grand every 18 months to keep somthing running that stands a good chance of depositing me in front of a truck when it fails I would think it time I checked in for some profesional help, not time to replace it with another.
Mike

sidecar wrote:The thickness of the coating is only a few thou so I don't think the the reduction in diameter will make any difference. The carbon that builds up in the exhaust is probably thicker.

My Cobra headers were done on the inside and outside (The shiny stuff on the outside). It was not cheap to get done but it looks good and is showing no signs at all of flaking off!

Pete

I had mine done 5 years ago, on close inspection the internal coating has worn away where the hot gas hits bends, seems fine everywhere else.

I think the failures people have mentioned may be down to surface preparation and applying the coating incorrectly. Techline generally specify blasting with fine allyoxide and a very thin application, notwithstanding correct curing which is much higher temp for the exhaust coatings than any of the other engine coatings.

spend wrote:Techline generally specify blasting with fine allyoxide and a very thin application, notwithstanding correct curing which is much higher temp for the exhaust coatings than any of the other engine coatings.

Who is Techline? Someone local?

They are the manufacturer of the products that Cam-u-Coat use , and are also agents for them

There is quite a lot of interesting background reading on the US Techline site IIRC.

Had a good look at the exhaust yesterday and found :-

1/. Front section from the headers was mild steel and rusty. Custom made, one side lower than the other by an inch or so, too tight a bend causing a partial kink in it, 50mm pipe, passenger side comes within 1/2 an inch of the tunnel causing heat in the passenger compartment, drivers side less than 1/4 of an inch, causing the same and all of the underseal to melt. Front section has two pipes all the way back to the end where it goes into 1 in a 60mm pipe.

Needs replacing with a properly constructed section.

2/. Centre section standard 3500 Auto smaller bore exhaust. The smaller bore being around 45mm (I think). Whole thing is very rusty and has a couple of small holes in it.

3/. Rear section in good condition and has a tailpipe of 54mm. This is why I thought I had the larger bore exhaust - not so, the tailpipe seems to have been grafted onto the 45mm pipe as it leaves the rear box.

So 45mm primaries on the headers, into a 50mm front section, then 60mm, then 45mm centre and rear sections.

'Oh well' I thought, replace the lot with a brand new, bespoke stainless exhaust - there goes my Rover funds for a while

Then I have to have the front sections ceramic coated

Stainless will be noisier and radiare more heat than mild

Ian

Ian Anderson wrote:Stainless will be noisier and radiare more heat than mild

Ian

hmm... I knew that stainless headers were noisier and hotter then cast manifolds, but I didn't know they were noisier than mild steel ones

Never mind, I can sort that

Ian Anderson wrote:Stainless will be noisier and radiare more heat than mild

Ian

doesnt make too much difference if you have lead in your socks... like me you'll be deaf anyway

i think the benefits of not rusting make stainless worth while

[[/quote]

doesnt make too much difference if you have lead in your socks... like me you'll be deaf anyway

i think the benefits of not rusting make stainless worth while[/quote]

I agree
The lead boot on full acceleration woul put mine at about 115+db

But it is fun!

Ian

Well, it's slightly louder, but only slightly.

The burble is a little more pronounced, and the engibne feels a bit livelier, less strangled. And no more warm feet syndrome.

All in all, very pleased with it.

Now I have to take it apart and send it off for ceramic coating

Richard P6 wrote:Well, it's slightly louder, but only slightly.

The burble is a little more pronounced, and the engibne feels a bit livelier, less strangled. And no more warm feet syndrome.

All in all, very pleased with it.

Now I have to take it apart and send it off for ceramic coating

More burble is good burble.

As for warm feet syndrome... I wish I had it. In the winter its freezing... especially seeing as the heat was so c**P I took it out. The large gaps in the doors etc dont help either

crayefish wrote:As for warm feet syndrome... I wish I had it. In the winter its freezing... especially seeing as the heat was so c**P I took it out. The large gaps in the doors etc dont help either

Ditto

Warm feet?

Front header is about 3 inches from my left shoulder
Water pipes to radiator run down center tunnel - leg sits on other side
Radiator up front - air rushes through and warms up the front bulkhead near pedals and comes in through gaps

In the winter it is pleasant - on a day where temp is about 6 a T shirt is enough clothing!

Some of us have too much heat!

Ian

Ian Anderson wrote:Warm feet?

Front header is about 3 inches from my left shoulder
Water pipes to radiator run down center tunnel - leg sits on other side
Radiator up front - air rushes through and warms up the front bulkhead near pedals and comes in through gaps

In the winter it is pleasant - on a day where temp is about 6 a T shirt is enough clothing!

Some of us have too much heat!

Ian

No need to brag

Mine is *this* big.