What to do if I've lost my locking wheel nut adapter?!

chodjinn · Post by **chodjinn** » Fri May 27, 2011 6:33 pm

ok just had a look and it doesn't appear that I'd be able to hammer on a socket, there is a bit of room around the key though but not really anything to bit to, unless I use a reverse thread??

I'm quite sure the key has been lost, I'm not in a massive rush to remove them but I'm fitting a carb conversion and could do with getting the drivers front wheel off to turn the crank.

Ian Anderson · Post by **Ian Anderson** » Fri May 27, 2011 9:18 pm

If is a lock as opposod to a different form of spanne attachment how about speaking to a locksmith?

Ian

Post by **katanaman** » Fri May 27, 2011 10:11 pm

Ok I was only asking because if your never going to get a key for them then they are useless to you anyway. I understand they are difficult and expensive to replace but it sounds like your going to have to replace them anyway. I have had a fair bit of success with welding something like a big bolt on and getting it off with a normal socket. The heat also slackens them a bit which also helps. This of course is destructive and its your call obviously.

gelmonkey · Post by **gelmonkey** » Sat May 28, 2011 7:47 am

I have a set of Irwin bolt removers here which are for broken and damaged heads.
You dont have to hammer them on as they work on a reverse thread process.
Would something like this help?
I can post up a picture for you if needed.
As said before a photo would help tremendously for us to try and help get this sorted.

cheers
P

stevieturbo · Post by **stevieturbo** » Sat May 28, 2011 10:04 am

gelmonkey wrote:I have a set of Irwin bolt removers here which are for broken and damaged heads.
You dont have to hammer them on as they work on a reverse thread process.
Would something like this help?
I can post up a picture for you if needed.
As said before a photo would help tremendously for us to try and help get this sorted.

cheers
P

Usually they arent big enough in terms of going over the bolt. And if they were, they'd be too big to fit in the recess in the wheel.

The last set of nuts I removed were McGard and TBH, they were a total nightmare.
Drilling didnt work, it blunted a chisel on the first strike, reverse screw nuts wouldnt work as there wasnt room. Irwin was far too small.
The Dynomec thing was possible, But simply not strong enough to undo the nut.
Which is another aspect. If nuts can be a struggle with a proper socket...they'll be a nightmare with removal tools.

In the end I managed to destroy an outer collar that was barely visible. This was free to rotate to prevent many tools working. Once this had been removed, the reverse screw thread socket just about fitted over. But these do generally require an impact gun to work so you can push hard while it undoes so it will bite into the nut.

Even welding in this instance would have been very difficult.

There was a set of those same nuts on my old Volvo. I immediately removed them !!
Didnt want to risk ever getting stuck lol

chodjinn · Post by **chodjinn** » Sun May 29, 2011 3:24 pm

Managed to get a few shots today;

ged · Post by **ged** » Sun May 29, 2011 3:50 pm

If you've got a socket the right size use an angle grinder & profile the outside of it for clearance. Should work a treat.

Regards Ged

chodjinn · Post by **chodjinn** » Sun May 29, 2011 4:10 pm

Dont quite get what you mean mate, grind what?

gelmonkey · Post by **gelmonkey** » Sun May 29, 2011 6:31 pm

Those locks are very similar to the McGuard ones and I think that you will be very lucky to get them off in one piece TBH.
There is so little room in the tunnel to get anything of substance on to the top of the lock without damaging the wheel itself.
Are the bodies of the locks just cylindrical?
Hammering a socket over the top will not do much at all imo.
Unless you can find the key I think that there are few options but destructive methods.

Cheers
P

stevieturbo · Post by **stevieturbo** » Sun May 29, 2011 7:25 pm

If you can get a reverse screw socked onto it, it should work.

But check there isnt a small loose collar on the outside of the nut which is designed to prevent those tools working.

The Dynomec tool is designed for that style of locking nut. It is good, but success isnt 100% guaranteed.

It basically hammers some soft steel into the shape to create a new key. But obviously this metal is softer than the actual, so if the nut is very tight, it can struggle.
But it is a good tool.

ged · Post by **ged** » Sun May 29, 2011 7:30 pm

Hi Chodjinn,

Sorry not explained very well I was in a rush.

What I meant was the 6 pointed star in the middle of the nut looks to be about an 1/8" of an inch high. So if you measure across the flats (4 points) then find a socket the same size you can profile the out side of the socket so that it will fit in the recess. Before trying to loosen it off find a piece of aluminium & using it as a drift give the head of the nut a good smack with a hammer to help loosen it.

Hope this helps.

Regards Ged.

JSF55 · Post by **JSF55** » Sun May 29, 2011 7:59 pm

There's a few sets of McGuard locking nuts on ebay, might be wortha few quid too see if they might fit ?

stevieturbo · Post by **stevieturbo** » Sun May 29, 2011 8:02 pm

JSF55 wrote:There's a few sets of McGuard locking nuts on ebay, might be wortha few quid too see if they might fit ?

Big gamble. They are keys and there will be hundreds, if not thousands of different ones

kev_the_mole · Post by **kev_the_mole** » Sun May 29, 2011 9:44 pm

Try these people www.mcgard.com. They may be able to help.

JSF55 · Post by **JSF55** » Mon May 30, 2011 8:16 am

stevieturbo wrote:
JSF55 wrote:There's a few sets of McGuard locking nuts on ebay, might be wortha few quid too see if they might fit ?
Big gamble. They are keys and there will be hundreds, if not thousands of different ones

Ah ! i men't as a replacement not as a key to use, i should explain myself better

But would this work ......
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Gator-Grip-ETC-20 ... 1c1bcef394