The V8 Owners Forum -

Semi Hemi wrote:right its all back in filled with fluid and all seems good allthough it seems a little harsh when i select drive or reverse,im plesed that i managed to strip and repair an auto box and it still works....so far
many thanks for the replies and help
kev

The modulator valve is just spring loaded return to the cam operated by the control cable and often sticks. This can cause rough engagement.

Semi Hemi wrote:yes thats what had happend harvey,the seal looks like it had stuck to the wall,come out of its groove and jammed it.
just glad i found something

It's just a shame that in your particular installation you couldn't get the sump off, because all that could have been done in-situ.

DaveEFI wrote:

Semi Hemi wrote:right its all back in filled with fluid and all seems good allthough it seems a little harsh when i select drive or reverse,im plesed that i managed to strip and repair an auto box and it still works....so far
many thanks for the replies and help
kev

The modulator valve is just spring loaded return to the cam operated by the control cable and often sticks. This can cause rough engagement.

wow...been for a drive and its great,changes smoothly in(what i think)the correct places and kicks down too..great stuff

harvey wrote:

Semi Hemi wrote:yes thats what had happend harvey,the seal looks like it had stuck to the wall,come out of its groove and jammed it.
just glad i found something

It's just a shame that in your particular installation you couldn't get the sump off, because all that could have been done in-situ.

when i built it i used an alfa 2lt twincam and manual box so didnt see the need to put the k members slightly further back...next time ill plan ahead..yeah right cheers

Semi Hemi wrote:right its all back in filled with fluid and all seems good allthough it seems a little harsh when i select drive or reverse,im plesed that i managed to strip and repair an auto box and it still works....so far
many thanks for the replies and help
kev

Have you connected the kickdown cable this time? If so, then it may need backing off a little as the harshness when selecting D & R may be due to the initial pressure being too high.

Regards Denis

DEVONMAN wrote:

Semi Hemi wrote:right its all back in filled with fluid and all seems good allthough it seems a little harsh when i select drive or reverse,im plesed that i managed to strip and repair an auto box and it still works....so far
many thanks for the replies and help
kev

Have you connected the kickdown cable this time? If so, then it may need backing off a little as the harshness when selecting D & R may be due to the initial pressure being too high.

Regards Denis

yeah i've learned the hard way,ill give it a few more runs and see how it goes then.
cheers

Assuming you're using a complete throttle mechanism from a BW 35 vehicle - so the control cable matches the throttle movement - first make sure the throttle is opening fully. Then set the control cable so it only just kicks down.

That should give you near enough the right pressure at idle - assuming everything else is correct.

right then,i've been using my truck now for about 100 miles with this box and today after around 20 miles it wouldnt shift into 3rd,i know its been leaking a bit but checked the level and it looked ok,on the way home it shifted into 3rd and i thought all was ok untill a miles from home it downshifted into 2nd when it shouldnt have,i've left it for over an hour put some fluid in and it now shifts ok again,would low fluid cause that to happen or is something else going on in there?

A very low fluid level can cause them to drop out of top and into second.
How are you checking the level?

harvey wrote:A very low fluid level can cause them to drop out of top and into second.
How are you checking the level?

with the engine running in park,trouble is its very vauge on the dipstick,hard to tell,im starting to get fed up with it now!!!
i put some fluid in when i got home and its now changing up,i was just concerned that it may be something else..i've been using dexron 3 in it and have just found a bottle of ford atf can it be mixed?
thanks harvey

Dexron ain't right for a BW35. Should be a type G fluid - Castrol TQF or equivalent.

DaveEFI wrote:Dexron ain't right for a BW35. Should be a type G fluid - Castrol TQF or equivalent.

really!! i was told it was ok to use if the box had been rebuilt with new plates and bands,a guy from penn auto's out brum way..supposed to be a bit of an expert on auto box's.

Dexron fluids contain friction modifiers which introduce slip to smooth out the changes, and if used in the BW35/65/66 the end result is as though the box is running permanently overheated.

If you're having problems seeing the level clearly rub some blackboard chalk on the bottom of the dipstick, and then wipe it off, which dries the bottom of the stick making it easy to see the level.

ok thanks ill try that harvey,the fluid that im using is comma AQ3 that meets dexron 3 is this no good?

Semi Hemi wrote:ok thanks ill try that harvey,the fluid that im using is comma AQ3 that meets dexron 3 is this no good?

You shouldn't use any of the Dexron fluids. Find ATF-G which says on the container that it meets Ford specification M2C-33G