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Posted: Mon Oct 19, 2009 5:15 am
by sidecar
topcatproduction wrote:
Pete how did you apply the demon tweeks stuff? Is it more the case that it isn't pretty but does the job or is it just not great? Maybe if they supplied it in matt black as well it wouldn't matter if it didn't go on very well from an asthetics point of view!
I used a brush although I believe that it can be sprayed. The finish looked pretty good the problem was that it did not stay on the pipe very long.
Having said that my sidecars pipes did get VERY hot, hot enough to melt the baffle wadding so that it actually turned into glass!
Pete
Posted: Mon Oct 19, 2009 7:59 am
by crayefish
sidecar wrote:topcatproduction wrote:
Pete how did you apply the demon tweeks stuff? Is it more the case that it isn't pretty but does the job or is it just not great? Maybe if they supplied it in matt black as well it wouldn't matter if it didn't go on very well from an asthetics point of view!
I used a brush although I believe that it can be sprayed. The finish looked pretty good the problem was that it did not stay on the pipe very long.
Having said that my sidecars pipes did get VERY hot, hot enough to melt the baffle wadding so that it actually turned into glass!
Pete
So did it flake off pretty quickly then? How carefully did you prep the surface?
I was thinking about the baking it thing... ovens just dont go quite hot enough and theyre too small... perhaps just fitting them and running the engine would bake them?
Otherwise its off to find someone with an autoclave...
Posted: Mon Oct 19, 2009 10:38 am
by kev_the_mole
I've got one
Sadly it's the company's but we do do outside jobs at £50 per hour when there's a gap in the production cycle. With an electric 'clave you would be looking at a 3 hour cycle minimum.
Posted: Mon Oct 19, 2009 11:02 am
by sidecar
crayefish wrote:sidecar wrote:topcatproduction wrote:
Pete how did you apply the demon tweeks stuff? Is it more the case that it isn't pretty but does the job or is it just not great? Maybe if they supplied it in matt black as well it wouldn't matter if it didn't go on very well from an asthetics point of view!
I used a brush although I believe that it can be sprayed. The finish looked pretty good the problem was that it did not stay on the pipe very long.
Having said that my sidecars pipes did get VERY hot, hot enough to melt the baffle wadding so that it actually turned into glass!
Pete
So did it flake off pretty quickly then? How carefully did you prep the surface?
The exhaust was brand new (mild steel), the surfaces were cleaned up and fully degreased
Posted: Mon Oct 19, 2009 12:00 pm
by crayefish
kev_the_mole wrote:I've got one
Sadly it's the company's but we do do outside jobs at £50 per hour when there's a gap in the production cycle. With an electric 'clave you would be looking at a 3 hour cycle minimum.
They prob have one here at the uni too, but whether they'd let a post grad use it is another matter... a few beers for the technicians maybe...
Looks like that diy ceramic stuff isnt too good. i'd be interested to hear whether it flaked off so quickly when autoclaved
Posted: Mon Oct 19, 2009 6:32 pm
by gelmonkey
Hi Guys
When I had mine done at Camcoat (mild steel, totatly degreased) I asked about the process and they said that all items that are to be coated are acid dipped to make sure of complete cleanness.
If you are going to go the DIY route how about seeing if there are any potteries in your location as they use kilns which can take a pair of fanimolds with ease and will go to the temperatures required to bake the coating on
cheers
Paul.
Posted: Mon Oct 19, 2009 7:46 pm
by crayefish
gelmonkey wrote:Hi Guys
When I had mine done at Camcoat (mild steel, totatly degreased) I asked about the process and they said that all items that are to be coated are acid dipped to make sure of complete cleanness.
If you are going to go the DIY route how about seeing if there are any potteries in your location as they use kilns which can take a pair of fanimolds with ease and will go to the temperatures required to bake the coating on
cheers
Paul.
Good thinking mate!
Posted: Mon Oct 19, 2009 10:36 pm
by Richard P6
Just got a quote for £280.00 for the manifolds (inside and out) and around £75.00 for silencers (Outside only), plus a cost per foot for the pipes based on length and bore. All plus Vear And Tear.
Have to raid the piggy bank
Posted: Tue Oct 20, 2009 7:14 am
by gelmonkey
Ah the good ol piggy bank raid!
Always a favourite
Try down the back of the sofa first you might get lucky.
Those prices seem pretty good Richard so when are you going to get the work done then?
Posted: Tue Oct 20, 2009 8:38 am
by crayefish
Richard P6 wrote:Just got a quote for £280.00 for the manifolds (inside and out) and around £75.00 for silencers (Outside only), plus a cost per foot for the pipes based on length and bore. All plus Vear And Tear.
Have to raid the piggy bank
Is it necessary to coat the insides if you are using stainless?
Posted: Tue Oct 20, 2009 9:08 am
by Richard P6
crayefish wrote:Richard P6 wrote:Just got a quote for £280.00 for the manifolds (inside and out) and around £75.00 for silencers (Outside only), plus a cost per foot for the pipes based on length and bore. All plus Vear And Tear.
Have to raid the piggy bank
Is it necessary to coat the insides if you are using stainless?
I asked that question and was told : -
The advantages to coating internally also is that it is essentially and Heat Barrier which prevents heat from the gases getting into the pipe in the first place thus aiding the external coatings to keep heat in the pipes. The added insulation then speeds up the gas flow resulting in performance gains.
So I thought, 'If I am going to do it, I might as well do it properly first time.' Although I am more interested in the larger benefit of not having my engine bay frying itself over the smaller (but still nice) benefit of more power.
Posted: Tue Oct 20, 2009 9:33 am
by topcatcustom
Lol I like their claim- The added insulation then speeds up the gas flow resulting in performance gains.
I assume they mean by making the internal diameter smaller which is true- it does speed up flow but if someone is going to the expense of having a set of custom made curly manifolds coated don't they think they would already have worked out the optimum tube diameter first?!
I was looking at the engine in a new 5/600bhp Scania the other day and the manifolds were tiny diameter, they get the turbo spinning quicker but the engines don't run faster than about 1800rpm...
Posted: Tue Oct 20, 2009 9:34 am
by crayefish
I was hoping to save a few bob by not getting the insides done if it was only needed to prevent corrosion in mild steel... damn it. I hate not doing things properly but its always so expensive
I should have got into BMXs...
Posted: Tue Oct 20, 2009 9:41 am
by crayefish
topcatproduction wrote:Lol I like their claim- The added insulation then speeds up the gas flow resulting in performance gains.
I assume they mean by making the internal diameter smaller which is true- it does speed up flow but if someone is going to the expense of having a set of custom made curly manifolds coated don't they think they would already have worked out the optimum tube diameter first?!
I was looking at the engine in a new 5/600bhp Scania the other day and the manifolds were tiny diameter, they get the turbo spinning quicker but the engines don't run faster than about 1800rpm...
Its nothing to do with diameter... as the gas cools due to conducting heat to the manifolds it becomes denser and losses momentum (hotter gases move quicker than cooler gases)
Posted: Tue Oct 20, 2009 11:17 am
by sidecar
The thickness of the coating is only a few thou so I don't think the the reduction in diameter will make any difference. The carbon that builds up in the exhaust is probably thicker.
My Cobra headers were done on the inside and outside (The shiny stuff on the outside). It was not cheap to get done but it looks good and is showing no signs at all of flaking off!
Pete