I measured where i wanted the kick up to be. Obviously had to be engine side of the bulkhead and not to far from the front clip but couldnt have it too close as the lower arms may foul the bottom of the kick up. I measured they had to be 31" long with 2 45 degree cuts back over and two 45 degree cuts on the front end so when the fronts put back on there is no boxing in to be done. A mate managed to get me 2 35" long bits of 3x2 box section. I still aint bought a chop saw so got a local engineering place to do the 45 degree cuts for me. Charged me £8,
So im going to buy my own chop saw as still chassis work to do. I clamped the freshly cut pieces along side the front legs so the front was level and marked off where the back of the box section sat and the 45 degree angle. Ian, aka Dustyrusty did some fancy calculation and advised having an overlap of 6" (double the box size).
I then clamped a piece of angle iron to the chassis so the grinder would hopefully follow a clean line so it would mean less work to box in and look neater. This was repeated both sides.
First one done. One more to go.
No going back
I then clamped the top to the bottom using the marks i made making sure again it was 6" and square with the rest of the chassis.
A few tacks to make sure it doesnt move.
Then i put the inch box section back across the two legs and left them clamped while i welded them up. I measured before, during (quite a few times) and after to make sure we were still square and as it was.
I ran a line of weld along the trough that the two box section formed then grinded if flat. I then ran one line of weld either side of the weld and ground that flat. I will box in top and bottom when the shell comes back off and the final weld up and paint is done.
I have since fitted the front end again and checked im happy and am more than happy till i forgot about lying back the front clip about 3 degrees like Ian Mockett told me. I spent a day installing, moving and measuring up the front clip to tack in place until i remebered what Ian said, :huh: SO back off it all came to cut the cross member, again. managed to do that and with a quick help from the wife to put the arms on again as buy this time my arms were dropping off as they aint light, i again moved and measured so i could tack it in. All sorted, measured up great, auick grab the welder before it moves. Tacked in and measured again. Hadn't moved but it looks funny with the chassis rake being 3 degrees downward and the fron clip 3 degrees backover. The top and lower arms dont sit level to the chassis rails but it will drive better than if flat.
