3.9 EFI: No power

lollorock · Post by **lollorock** » Sun Mar 23, 2014 2:42 pm

what is this? strobe?

Captainbeaky · Post by **Captainbeaky** » Sun Mar 23, 2014 2:54 pm

No, it's the adapter to plug in the fluorescent work light.

lollorock · Post by **lollorock** » Mon Mar 24, 2014 12:42 pm

good to know…

still waiting for the cable

DaveEFI · Post by **DaveEFI** » Mon Mar 24, 2014 1:11 pm

lollorock wrote:good to know…

still waiting for the cable

It looks like an adaptor to allow things you'd normally plug into a fag lighter connect to the battery direct?

ramon alban · Post by **ramon alban** » Mon Mar 24, 2014 1:21 pm

lollorock wrote: Meanwhile i was thinking: Can the inlet manifold gasket damage be the reason of my problems?

Yes! It allows air into the crankcase same as if a rocker cover gasket is damaged.

This affects the fuelling on a typical petrol model, don't know about LPG.

The breather system will also not work properly.

ChrisJC · Post by **ChrisJC** » Mon Mar 24, 2014 6:35 pm

It could also allow unmetered air into the inlet. Not sure how this would make it run rich though.

Chris.

ramon alban · Post by **ramon alban** » Tue Mar 25, 2014 12:00 pm

ChrisJC wrote: Not sure how this would make it run rich though.
Chris.

Hello Chris, It wouldn't, I agree, an uncontrolled weak mixture would be the result. And therefore, something else is causing a rich mixture.

So, Lollo, you appear to have two petrol fuelling problems, maybe more?

Killing several alligators in one go is always a problem, sometimes being better to drain the swamp and start over.

By which, I mean, with overlapping symptoms, you'll probably need to obtain an efi system set-up manual for your version of the engine and check every component - back to basics.

lollorock · Post by **lollorock** » Tue Mar 25, 2014 1:55 pm

I agree, in fact i have decided to use rover gauge before do anything else.

lollorock · Post by **lollorock** » Wed Mar 26, 2014 2:04 pm

Hi,

the cable is here but unfortunately I stint at solder

and i can't merge the connector to the cable.

But i have already asked to a friend

lollorock · Post by **lollorock** » Thu Mar 27, 2014 6:49 pm

Ok, we are online with Rover Gauge

unfortunately today i couldn't turn on the engine for some reason, so the only error i have with the two click of the key is not the TPS

Tomorrow i hope to have the time to turn on the Range and monitoring better the ECU

stay tuned!

lollorock · Post by **lollorock** » Mon Mar 31, 2014 6:58 am

Hi,
finally i have connected de 14CUX at the PC and i have scan it with rover gauge .

The MIL is on

I have two errors:

17: Throttle pot out of range. Possible faulty throttle potentiometer / incorrect setting or connection/wiring fault.

In fact in rover gauge this value is fixed at 11%

19:Throttle sensor output too low with high airflow. Possible faulty airflow meter or throttle potentiometer or wiring/connections to either.

any ideas?

Forbito · Post by **Forbito** » Mon Mar 31, 2014 12:40 pm

lollorock wrote: any ideas?

Hi Lorenzo,
test the TPS, this is the procedure:
To troubleshoot the Throttle Position Sensor, first disconnect system power and then disconnect the EFI Cable Harness from the ECU. Using an Ohmmeter, verify that resistance between terminals 3 and 25 is between 4000 and 6000 Ohms. Next, reconnect the EFI Cable Harness to the ECU, and turn the ignition key switch "on". Take voltmeter readings from pin 20 to ground. With the sensor in the throttle-closed position, you should read 0.085 to 0.545 volts. With the sensor in the throttle-open position, you should read 4.2 to 4.9 volts. In between these extremes, turning the throttle position sensor should produce a smooth sweep of voltage readings.

DaveEFI · Post by **DaveEFI** » Mon Mar 31, 2014 3:03 pm

Since you're effectively looking for a noisy track, the best device is a 'scope. Or devise a way of opening the throttle by tiny incremental amounts to give the DVM a chance to get a true reading. The cable adjuster might be a good way to do this. The most likely place for wear is at the start of the track close to idle.

If it's off the vehicle there's a quite easy way to test it. Rig it up as a volume control between a source and amplifier. You'll clearly hear a crackle as it is moved if it is noisy.

lollorock · Post by **lollorock** » Mon Mar 31, 2014 5:02 pm

Forbito wrote:
lollorock wrote: any ideas?
Hi Lorenzo,
test the TPS, this is the procedure:
To troubleshoot the Throttle Position Sensor, first disconnect system power and then disconnect the EFI Cable Harness from the ECU. Using an Ohmmeter, verify that resistance between terminals 3 and 25 is between 4000 and 6000 Ohms. Next, reconnect the EFI Cable Harness to the ECU, and turn the ignition key switch "on". Take voltmeter readings from pin 20 to ground. With the sensor in the throttle-closed position, you should read 0.085 to 0.545 volts. With the sensor in the throttle-open position, you should read 4.2 to 4.9 volts. In between these extremes, turning the throttle position sensor should produce a smooth sweep of voltage readings.

Ciao caro

thank you for your post

I will test this as soon as possible

edit: where is pin 20?

DaveEFI wrote:Since you're effectively looking for a noisy track, the best device is a 'scope. Or devise a way of opening the throttle by tiny incremental amounts to give the DVM a chance to get a true reading. The cable adjuster might be a good way to do this. The most likely place for wear is at the start of the track close to idle.

If it's off the vehicle there's a quite easy way to test it. Rig it up as a volume control between a source and amplifier. You'll clearly hear a crackle as it is moved if it is noisy.

I am so sorry but i don't understand

DaveEFI · Post by **DaveEFI** » Mon Mar 31, 2014 6:22 pm

The thing is a DVM doesn't give a continuously varying output. It samples the voltage. So not ideal for seeing one which is changing, as it would be as you open the pot.