Lifting the floor (slightly)
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I suspect that when I installed my guides I installed them to standard height (non billeted) - no matter - tomorow I will machine 2.5mm off the top with the same cutter used to put newer style stem seals on old valve guides - so this should allow me to take the real steel typhoon cam!
I was probarbly running too little Clearence before with th 858 cam - but was just lucky. Essentially all that was wrong apart from the CHG was a couple of heavily warn rockers, cam lobes and lifters and two valve tips (less so). What do you think of the real steel cams mike? Heard you talk about them before.
I was probarbly running too little Clearence before with th 858 cam - but was just lucky. Essentially all that was wrong apart from the CHG was a couple of heavily warn rockers, cam lobes and lifters and two valve tips (less so). What do you think of the real steel cams mike? Heard you talk about them before.
Spent so much on trial and error!
Were the oil seals intact on the valves with the damaged rockers DJ ?
Where Mike goes for 60 thou clearance on the valve guides I go for 100 thou. Just my preference though.
Where Mike goes for 60 thou clearance on the valve guides I go for 100 thou. Just my preference though.
Perry Stephenson
MGB GT + Rover V8
9.62 @ 137.37mph
Now looking for 8 seconds with a SBC engine
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nVscbPHgue0&list=UUqIlXfSAoiZ--GyG4tfRrjw
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eg3avnsNKrc&index=2&list=FLqIlXfSAoiZ--GyG4tfRrjw
MGB GT + Rover V8
9.62 @ 137.37mph
Now looking for 8 seconds with a SBC engine
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nVscbPHgue0&list=UUqIlXfSAoiZ--GyG4tfRrjw
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eg3avnsNKrc&index=2&list=FLqIlXfSAoiZ--GyG4tfRrjw
Ideally Dyno first to set it up and then the drag stripDaviesDJ wrote:Started re-assembling. Roller rockers arrived today! My god they are to gorgeous to use! The yella terras certainly look the part! Will post a pick. Wonder what BHP all this nonsense will land me?? And what ET at the 1/4 mile???
Your ET's will vary depending on temp and humidity, but mainly headwind for the Brick of a Landy Dave
Will it be ready for the end of this month?
Pel
Perry Stephenson
MGB GT + Rover V8
9.62 @ 137.37mph
Now looking for 8 seconds with a SBC engine
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nVscbPHgue0&list=UUqIlXfSAoiZ--GyG4tfRrjw
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eg3avnsNKrc&index=2&list=FLqIlXfSAoiZ--GyG4tfRrjw
MGB GT + Rover V8
9.62 @ 137.37mph
Now looking for 8 seconds with a SBC engine
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nVscbPHgue0&list=UUqIlXfSAoiZ--GyG4tfRrjw
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eg3avnsNKrc&index=2&list=FLqIlXfSAoiZ--GyG4tfRrjw
I've used Real Steel cams for years with no problems. The important thing is to add some comp cams high zinc lube to the oil for the bedding in session. Dont just pour it in on top of the fresh oil fill though. Take 2 litres of fresh oil and mix the lube in with that to pour in first with the rest on top. If you have a dissy driven oil pump you can circulate and mix the oil nicely with a drill before you start it up.DaviesDJ wrote:I suspect that when I installed my guides I installed them to standard height (non billeted) - no matter - tomorow I will machine 2.5mm off the top with the same cutter used to put newer style stem seals on old valve guides - so this should allow me to take the real steel typhoon cam!
I was probarbly running too little Clearence before with th 858 cam - but was just lucky. Essentially all that was wrong apart from the CHG was a couple of heavily warn rockers, cam lobes and lifters and two valve tips (less so). What do you think of the real steel cams mike? Heard you talk about them before.
And make sure that when you assemble the engine you use ARP or Graphogen or comp cams lube paste on the cam lobes + a dot on each end of the push rods and a dot on each valve tip. This gives you best protection for the bedding in process. I've seen so many folk make the mistake of using engine oil or the red liquid that you often get in a sachet with a new cam on these parts when building an engine that they leave standing for a few weeks or even a year before firing up ?? The thin stuff just runs off over a week and leaves virtually no protection on those surfaces.
And use the zinc lube with all oil changes as well.
Perry Stephenson
MGB GT + Rover V8
9.62 @ 137.37mph
Now looking for 8 seconds with a SBC engine
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nVscbPHgue0&list=UUqIlXfSAoiZ--GyG4tfRrjw
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eg3avnsNKrc&index=2&list=FLqIlXfSAoiZ--GyG4tfRrjw
MGB GT + Rover V8
9.62 @ 137.37mph
Now looking for 8 seconds with a SBC engine
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nVscbPHgue0&list=UUqIlXfSAoiZ--GyG4tfRrjw
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eg3avnsNKrc&index=2&list=FLqIlXfSAoiZ--GyG4tfRrjw
I did say Minimum. . . . . the same goes for piston to valve clearance 60 thou minimum but realistically you have to be pretty sure of yourself to run less than 120 thou. And I run 28 thou piston to head clearance, but the underside of the head does not "float" at 8000 revs!mgbv8 wrote:
Where Mike goes for 60 thou clearance on the valve guides I go for 100 thou. Just my preference though.
best regards
Mike
poppet valves rule!
kiwicar wrote:I did say Minimum. . . . . the same goes for piston to valve clearance 60 thou minimum but realistically you have to be pretty sure of yourself to run less than 120 thou.mgbv8 wrote:
Where Mike goes for 60 thou clearance on the valve guides I go for 100 thou. Just my preference though.
best regards
Mike
OK OK!!
Dont get your knickers in a twist Kiwi
You know I like my engines loose. Like my women
Perry Stephenson
MGB GT + Rover V8
9.62 @ 137.37mph
Now looking for 8 seconds with a SBC engine
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nVscbPHgue0&list=UUqIlXfSAoiZ--GyG4tfRrjw
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eg3avnsNKrc&index=2&list=FLqIlXfSAoiZ--GyG4tfRrjw
MGB GT + Rover V8
9.62 @ 137.37mph
Now looking for 8 seconds with a SBC engine
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nVscbPHgue0&list=UUqIlXfSAoiZ--GyG4tfRrjw
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eg3avnsNKrc&index=2&list=FLqIlXfSAoiZ--GyG4tfRrjw
Now now ladies!!
peel the oil seals were in fine order when I lifted the heads, but I want to be sure - and by the end of tomorrow I will have it sorted.
I Always use graphogen on assembly - and have a couple of litres of cam lube on order etc. I really hope to get it ready by the end of this month! That's my aim:-)
The brick alas will always struggle! But I am thinking of getting a hair cut to cut down on weight!;-)
Hoping / dreaming eventually of sub 14- but probably 15 to start with, or just under 20 lol
I Always use graphogen on assembly - and have a couple of litres of cam lube on order etc. I really hope to get it ready by the end of this month! That's my aim:-)
The brick alas will always struggle! But I am thinking of getting a hair cut to cut down on weight!;-)
Hoping / dreaming eventually of sub 14- but probably 15 to start with, or just under 20 lol
Spent so much on trial and error!
Now machined 100 thou off the valve guides and all sorted!


Roller rockers all set. I think the oil ways are very well set out. Will order a set of new rocker shafts. My mate has none in stock so am going to order some, what are the best online buys guys (rocker shafts), in terms of price and quality??


Roller rockers all set. I think the oil ways are very well set out. Will order a set of new rocker shafts. My mate has none in stock so am going to order some, what are the best online buys guys (rocker shafts), in terms of price and quality??
Spent so much on trial and error!
Apparently (not test fitted yet) the roller rockers will require lifting the rocker cover slightly, thinking about using 2 gaskets but an adaptor plate would be better! Does anybody know where these can be easily squired, don't have enough time to make one. Does anybody have experience of these??
Spent so much on trial and error!
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unstable load
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- Ian Anderson
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Paul does a tidy line in adaptor plates, find him here
http://www.whengparts.com/#/shop/457187 ... gine-Parts
http://www.whengparts.com/#/shop/457187 ... gine-Parts
So thats where it went !
