The V8 Owners Forum -

Ported rover V8 ports are also quite small.
48mm throttle body is near 45mm if you calculate acreage..
Your bottom end is quite big, and inlet track is quite long, so those are quite critical information what you need to choose throttle body size..
Jenvey recon 45-48mm throttle body on my 5.2litre /400hp rover v8

I will go for bosch 044 fuel pump.

http://www.boschfuelpumps.com/

The response from Jenvey is that 45mm may be the ideal size but suggested using the 48mm as inlet manifolds are all 48mm

When i bought my manifold (Eales) it has got 40mm track.. It is old manifold and i bought it from my friend, It is designed for 40mm dellorto carb´s (EX 3.9 paris dagar engine)..

Thanks Timo
Waiting for John to get back to me with some prices. He did mention that the inlets would need porting.
I see you are using MS3X, are you happy with it and is it easy to use?
A Megasquirt supplier recommended the latest MS1 as it is easier to set up?
One issue that I have is the shape of the Merlin inlet port. it has one lower corner filled in and I am wondering how well that will work with a dedicated inlet runner.

I have purchased an induction setup, second hand from John Eales.
Inlet manifolds, 45mm Jenveys, thermostat housing, fuel rails, injectors and coilpacks inc. cable linkage.
Ive got so many questions and hope you will be patient with me.
When I decide which ECU, is it better to get the ignition setup before changing the fuelling? Or get the fuelling setup then do the ignition.
Or jump in and set everything up together?
Do I go for sequential or semi sequential injection? have been told that sequential only makes a difference to economy.
Looking forward to the challenge!

MS3X is slightly dificult to tune, but quite easy if you dont burn your brains easily.. It will take some time..

I will go for MS3X, MS1 is old as Jesus.. Spend that extra money.

MS3X V3.57 is latest version. I´t is factory/robot made and it will inc surface mount component´s. Not old style resistors etc..
MS3X V3.0 is old style usually home made unit..
I will estimate that version 3.57 quality is similar like Haltech, etc.. As home made unit is more sensitive to fail..
If i was you, i bought new one from Diyautotune.com or his supplier, not for an electrician man version 3.0.. There is allways danger that unit will inc cold soldering..
Semi sequential injection might help you to get better emission´s, and COP ignition will give better emission.
My engine with Haltech and dizzy, HC is always +2000ppm. now for COP + semisequential is only 500ppm at idle.. It wiil cost more, and you will get more.

When i install mine, i first made Fuel setup to get engine fire, then add coils and made ignition maps..

And remember MS3X has got USB, MS1 dont have, if not modded.. Why to get old version if new version is available? Bought at least MS2, you have got bigger maps also on MS2/3

Timo,Thanks for the info.


Been looking at various ECU options. Emerald really appeals as they can supply pre configured with a base map, so should be very easy to get started.
Also been looking at the DTA S80 pro which is more expensive but has traction controll which might be useful. (wheel speed sensors needed). Also has launch control.

Throttle bodies in very good condition.




I am using the DTA S80 Pro ECU
Is it worth going fully sequential if I fit a cam sensor? read a lot of conflicting reports. It seems that it only maked a difference to economy, emissions and bottom end.

Hi
the stuff I read said if you set up for best power on batch fire but keeping the emisions close to OK you can get it set up more easily. You then switch to fully sequential and use the injection timing controll that gives you to pull in the emisions in along with being able to fine tune individual pots, back to batch and re-tweek for the power curve overall, back to sequential and tweek again. That way you are meant to get it tuned for both emisions and best power without having to loose power to get it emision legal. Just what I have read not sure if it is true but the sequential does not as such let you tune in more power over batch fire, it lets you make fewer compromises for emisions.
best regards
Mike

kokkolanpoika wrote:MS3X is slightly dificult to tune, but quite easy if you dont burn your brains easily.. It will take some time..

I will go for MS3X, MS1 is old as Jesus.. Spend that extra money.

MS3X V3.57 is latest version. I´t is factory/robot made and it will inc surface mount component´s. Not old style resistors etc..
MS3X V3.0 is old style usually home made unit..
I will estimate that version 3.57 quality is similar like Haltech, etc.. As home made unit is more sensitive to fail..
If i was you, i bought new one from Diyautotune.com or his supplier, not for an electrician man version 3.0.. There is allways danger that unit will inc cold soldering..
Semi sequential injection might help you to get better emission´s, and COP ignition will give better emission.
My engine with Haltech and dizzy, HC is always +2000ppm. now for COP + semisequential is only 500ppm at idle.. It wiil cost more, and you will get more.

When i install mine, i first made Fuel setup to get engine fire, then add coils and made ignition maps..

And remember MS3X has got USB, MS1 dont have, if not modded.. Why to get old version if new version is available? Bought at least MS2, you have got bigger maps also on MS2/3

Surface mount factory made also means lead free solder, which simply isn't as reliable as leaded. Also makes it more difficult to repair/modify. Only really 'better' where space is the problem - and the V3 and V3.57 are the same size. Both can be used with MS1,2 and 3 processors.

I doubt anyone supplying an MS would be unable to solder - it's hardly rocket science. Even a home constructed one - as few would attempt this if incapable of soldering. I've repaired and modified lots and dry joints ain't common. Most of the problems are caused by poor external wiring.

As regards maps, the same problem will apply to all aftermarket ECUs - they're rarely fitted to a standard engine, so no one size fits all. Same as carbs. But Phil at ExtraEFI should be able to supply one to get you started.

It's not that difficult to get the engine to run well even starting from a generic base map. What takes the time is getting the cruise economy sorted.

When I stripped and cleaned the Jenvey throttle bodies I found that someone had sheared off 3 of the idle air screws. They all looked a bit scabby so I emailed Jenvey and askes for 8 new ones with locking nuts.

They sent them out free of charge.
As I bought the bodies from JE this is amazing service.

I was going to do the conversion to the throttle bodies and EFI this winter but due to some ignition problems with my Mallory dizzy setup I have decided to go ahead now.
Going to use the Canems ECU. http://www.canems.co.uk/
and am having a drive in drive out conversion done by these guys,
http://www.lloydspecialistdevelopments.co.uk/
Car booked in for 5th Aug! They are local to me and seem to have a good reputation.
It will all be mapped on a rolling road so will post the dyno sheet when done.

Mark