Intake sound weber vs su + ignition questions

General Chat About Exhaust, Cylinder Heads, Fuel Systems And Intake

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Twin SU's
3
43%
Weber 500
2
29%
Lucas + Lumenition
1
14%
123Ignition
0
No votes
Rpi ignition kit
0
No votes
Mallory
1
14%
 
Total votes: 7

kiwicar
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Post by kiwicar »

dnb wrote:Marigolds for mutants would work better than tesco bags wouldn't they? ;)
Ah a man who has owned a Mini in his dim and distant past!

The cross ram set up is very good for a broad spread of torque however the assumption that goes with that style of one choke to one port is a high compression ratio and a fair amount of cam timing coupled with good heads, all would combine to make an engine that although good for general off road would be best used for a comp safari style car. I would go with the SUs they will give you the best engine performance for your money and make a hole in the back box.
Best regards
Mike


poppet valves rule!
JP.
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Post by JP. »

Hmmm a Eddy 500 is way to big for a 3.5.
Well you can restrict the secondary butterflies not to go fully open on a 500 easy so it will work on a 3.5 but its still to big.
Edelbrock is good for intake manifolds and that's where it ends.

A Holley 390cfm would be a far better choice on a small engine like the 3.5.
The smaller venturys will get you better throttle response to.

ignition wise, you can just run it on stock points as a trigger and get it fired by a MSD6AL unit.
'73 Ford Capri. 3.5 RV8, Magnacharger 110 Supercharger, Merlin F85 Heads, Water/Methanol Injected
'73 Ford F250, 6.7ltr V8
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ChrisJC
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Post by ChrisJC »

DaveEFI wrote:
ChrisJC wrote:
Coops wrote:why not go efi for off roading?
Reliability. Clever 'lectrics & muddy water do not mix well.

Chris.
Well, the plugs are no higher than any of those 'clever' electrics. Assuming you position the ECU for wading - not a difficult job.
It's not an ignition problem - you can MegaJolt it and that's about as good as you are going to get. It is all the ECU connections, those Junior Power Timer / Junior Timer things. Unless they are absolutely watertight, they will corrode. Then you end up with something unreliable.

I know this because it happened to me, which is why I have gone SU's and Megajolt. Not had a reliability issue since......

Chris.
--
Series IIA 4.6 V8
R/R P38 4.6 V8
R/R L405 4.4 SDV8
dnb
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Post by dnb »

kiwicar wrote:Ah a man who has owned a Mini in his dim and distant past!
I'm a bit too young for proper minis (at least on the road) but it seems Dad taught me a few useful things when I was growing up.

If you use a modified dizzy housing as the engine primary trigger (should be good enough for this application, but not ideal for ultimate accuracy) then you keep clear of having JT connectors at low points in the engine bay. You'd only have to worry about splashing then rather than submersion. Wouldn't be a bad idea for either full EFI or just sparks.
RRC'84
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Post by RRC'84 »

Ok, Su carb is the way to go then but then you have the choice of new ones
http://sucarb.co.uk/conversion-replacem ... rover.html
or reconditioned units.
What is best as I have heard that the new ones aren't very well build... Any experiences?
Do the ram pipes give any benefit?
http://sucarb.co.uk/air-filters-ram-pip ... pipes.html

Is megasquirt spark only kit a good solution for the ignition?
http://www.megasquirt-v8.co.uk/ms_spark.php
DaveEFI
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Post by DaveEFI »

RRC'84 wrote:Ok, Su carb is the way to go then but then you have the choice of new ones
http://sucarb.co.uk/conversion-replacem ... rover.html
or reconditioned units.
What is best as I have heard that the new ones aren't very well build... Any experiences?
Any bits I've bought from Burlen seem to be just the same as the originals - but I've never bought complete carbs. Where did you see this?
Do the ram pipes give any benefit?
http://sucarb.co.uk/air-filters-ram-pip ... pipes.html

Is megasquirt spark only kit a good solution for the ignition?
http://www.megasquirt-v8.co.uk/ms_spark.php
A good idea if you wish the option to go injection at a later date. Although I'd go for an MS2 (or 3) rather then 1 if this is the object. I'd also price up all the bits needed individually as there's still quite a bit of work needed with that kit.
Dave
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