alternative way of fitting a 4.4 in an e36, oil pump
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alternative way of fitting a 4.4 in an e36, oil pump
It,s been done....and fantastically, but not everyone can splash out on both a pump, and then the cost of modification .
so, I've seen it where people have moved the pump even further forward, taken the pump apart and put it back together with the chain drive to the rear, but i can't see how to make this work on the e34 front pulley, as the pulley is where the pump wants to be.
so, options, we have a pump that does the job, its just the wrong shape and in the wrong location.
the problem being if you just mount it further back, and extend the drive, the sump would still be to big as the drive is to low.
sooo, i mounted it back wards, took the drive out of the pump and put it back together with the sprocket to the other side, so it would blow and not suck, not good.
I needed the drive shaft lower, so i took the pump gears out of a scrap oil pump, mounted one on the pump, and one on the drive shaft, so this has now changed it back to being driven in the right direction.
luckily the drive shaft is the same dia as the inside of the dip stick tube, so i used this to support the shaft, I'm drilling holes in this tube so oil can find its way in dripping down from the block
I'll add some more pics of the plumbing and the sump in a few days as i make em
oh and the 740 auto has the cps on the flywheel, and the manual has the cps on the pulley wheel, but the 740 auto doesnt have anywhere to mount a cps, so i made a bracket out of an old spanner.
so, I've seen it where people have moved the pump even further forward, taken the pump apart and put it back together with the chain drive to the rear, but i can't see how to make this work on the e34 front pulley, as the pulley is where the pump wants to be.
so, options, we have a pump that does the job, its just the wrong shape and in the wrong location.
the problem being if you just mount it further back, and extend the drive, the sump would still be to big as the drive is to low.
sooo, i mounted it back wards, took the drive out of the pump and put it back together with the sprocket to the other side, so it would blow and not suck, not good.
I needed the drive shaft lower, so i took the pump gears out of a scrap oil pump, mounted one on the pump, and one on the drive shaft, so this has now changed it back to being driven in the right direction.
luckily the drive shaft is the same dia as the inside of the dip stick tube, so i used this to support the shaft, I'm drilling holes in this tube so oil can find its way in dripping down from the block
I'll add some more pics of the plumbing and the sump in a few days as i make em
oh and the 740 auto has the cps on the flywheel, and the manual has the cps on the pulley wheel, but the 740 auto doesnt have anywhere to mount a cps, so i made a bracket out of an old spanner.
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- Joined: Thu Jun 26, 2008 6:32 pm
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- Joined: Thu Jun 26, 2008 6:32 pm
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- Joined: Thu Jun 26, 2008 6:32 pm
Ok the next issue is plumbing it up, now i was a little concerned about the internal area of my idea, but even though it is less than the original pipe, its bigger than the union where it joins the oil filter housing.
ill add pictures tomorrow but basicly i have taken a piece of inch x inch 2mm walled angle, and welded a base to that so its a pyramid, i then took a grinder to my jack handle and cut an inch off the end, and spun that up in the lathe so the o/d is the same as the standard fitting, and cut this off to length so it sits flat on the side of the pyramid with the pump bolted in place. The inner edge of the pyramid fouls the pump mounting bolt, so i had to file that out and then weld in the gap.
then i scribed round the fitting, removed a hole, bolted it back together, and welded the fitting to the pyramid.
I have to get me some round pipe to make the rest of the plumbing, and finnish the sump where the pyramid fouls it, but apart from that, the small feed that feeds the timing chain can be made from steel brake pipe
ill add pictures tomorrow but basicly i have taken a piece of inch x inch 2mm walled angle, and welded a base to that so its a pyramid, i then took a grinder to my jack handle and cut an inch off the end, and spun that up in the lathe so the o/d is the same as the standard fitting, and cut this off to length so it sits flat on the side of the pyramid with the pump bolted in place. The inner edge of the pyramid fouls the pump mounting bolt, so i had to file that out and then weld in the gap.
then i scribed round the fitting, removed a hole, bolted it back together, and welded the fitting to the pyramid.
I have to get me some round pipe to make the rest of the plumbing, and finnish the sump where the pyramid fouls it, but apart from that, the small feed that feeds the timing chain can be made from steel brake pipe
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- Joined: Thu Jun 26, 2008 6:32 pm
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Well about a week ago I'm sure I dropped a 13mm nut down the timing case, so today i took the valve covers off, nothing, upper chain covers, nothing, lower chain cover, nothing........if it can't be foumd does it exist?
Shortened chain by yeah much
oil fitting
And where it sits
Just gotta track that up to the front where the original joins the block
Shortened chain by yeah much
oil fitting
And where it sits
Just gotta track that up to the front where the original joins the block
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Dang looks like this engines scrap due to the leaking rocker covers.
cheaper buying another engine than it is for 22 pieces of rubber.
looks like i can only get em on egay.com. $297 + $197 postage, then another. £100 odd in customs charges....so as i say, even though its a perfect engine otherwise, i'm gonna weigh it in when i weigh in the rest of the shell
cheaper buying another engine than it is for 22 pieces of rubber.
looks like i can only get em on egay.com. $297 + $197 postage, then another. £100 odd in customs charges....so as i say, even though its a perfect engine otherwise, i'm gonna weigh it in when i weigh in the rest of the shell