RV4.6 scrap engine "rebuild"

tobbjo · Post by **tobbjo** » Sun Nov 01, 2009 4:13 pm

I've landed myself a 4.6. It's a Range Rover engine, head cast date 45 00. Should be week 45 of 2000, right?
Later engines should be less prone to "slipped liner", right?

It is a replacement engine from an autorithed workshop. I.e. the replaced engine, that is. The reason the factory replaced the engine is unknown. The heads were in place, but when I removed them there was no head gaskets underneath, so someone at the workshop has apparently already removed them. Problably in some form of diagnosis.

The heads are warped lengthwise 0,25mm and 0,30mm respectively and about 0,10mm crosswise.
Too much?

I intend to drop the sump and have a look at a bearing cap or two.

If they look as fine as the top end, what else should I worry about?

If I can get it in order, cheaply, It will end up in my RRC I only use off road. It will get megasquirt n'EDIS in the process.

I have the serp timing cover, but no water pump. Can I run the serp water pump with a vee belt, i.e. is the rotation in the same dierction? Does the vee belt water pump pulley fit the serp water pump?

Next comes the question about crank pulley and spacers...

Thank you for any help or information.

Tobias
Sweden

Pocket rocket · Post by **Pocket rocket** » Sun Nov 01, 2009 4:50 pm

If the heads are warped then it's a good bet the engine overheated - in which case it might pay you to get the block pressure tested.

I think the serpentine water pump turned the opposite way to the V belt ones

SuperV8 · Post by **SuperV8** » Sun Nov 01, 2009 6:21 pm

I would definitely get the block pressure tested. Not very expensive.

I have just re-built my 4.6 a 2000 year engine and three liners were leaking.

The test isn't expensive but it needs to be a hot pressure test.

Fingers crossed yours will be ok. Cost me £800 for top hot liners!!!

I would also have the heads skimmed as well.

Yes the serp water pumps turn the opposite way of the back of the belt. Don't think the v belt would work. You'd need an earlier timing cover. There are way more cam option with the earlier cover. I'm using the latest GEMS timing cover and could only find 2 performance cams to choose from!

Check the cam bearings, apparent they wear after 90,000miles. had to have mine replaced.

I like the crate of beer ready for the late nights in the garrage

tobbjo · Post by **tobbjo** » Sun Nov 01, 2009 7:01 pm

Thanks for the info on the water pump. Seems I will reuse my timing cover from my 3.5, then.

Will see if the motor engineers hereabouts have the equipment to hot pressure test a RV8. Otherwise I'm tmpted to build it up on the crate and test it before I swap in in to my RR. Will need to find a spare timing cover then, but those are not too rare, even here...

How about starters. They are listed as separate. Will an older 3.5 starter fit?

Tobias

spend · Post by **spend** » Sun Nov 01, 2009 9:04 pm

Serp water pump doesnt cost much more than the spacer for the crank..

You still have to sort out an alt & belt though..

Boosted LS1 · Post by **Boosted LS1** » Sun Nov 01, 2009 9:35 pm

The pics show a pretty healthy looking engine that was running a tad rich. Oil looks reasonably clean to so I'd guess that the issue wasn't a leaking liner.

Lets see if the sump's been off and whether there's a bearing issue. You may as well strip it to check things and check the piston pins to.

CastleMGBV8 · Post by **CastleMGBV8** » Sun Nov 01, 2009 11:49 pm

Any sign on the other bank especially cylinders 6 & 8 of the pistons and combustion chambers having been steam cleaned and also compare the height of all the liners, if any have dropped it's a sign of cracking behind the liners.

The block can be saved by having Top Hat liners installed as mentioned above.

Kevin.

Eliot · Post by **Eliot** » Mon Nov 02, 2009 3:48 pm

I doubt the engine would of been scrapped for anything less than a slipped liner.
I would strip the engine 100% and pressure test, in fact you might as well top hat it whilst its in bits.

tobbjo · Post by **tobbjo** » Mon Nov 02, 2009 8:37 pm

How would the dealr have diagnosed the slipped liner without any further dismantling that what you see in the pics?

I have talked to the engine macinists around here and none have the ability to hot pressure test blocks.

More pictures will follow.

Tobias

ged · Post by **ged** » Mon Nov 02, 2009 8:58 pm

Hi,

I recently had my 4.6 top hatted because of liner issues. The oil was clean with no signs of contamination & there was no sign of water ingress to the combustion chambers (steam cleaning). If it wasn't for the low coolant light coming on at Motorway speed I wouldn't have noticed until the leak had gotten worse. The only signs of something wrong was a slight tapping noise for a few seconds on start up (which I thought was a lifter) & a stream of bubbles in the header tank when you revved the engine. It wasn't even losing any coolant, just forcing it up into the header tank which exposed the coolant probe in the radiator.

I thought I would just share this bit of information with you.

Regards Ged.

Eliot · Post by **Eliot** » Tue Nov 03, 2009 9:32 am

tobbjo wrote:How would the dealr have diagnosed the slipped liner without any further dismantling that what you see in the pics?

Tobias

Well I'm only guessing - but presumably because its a very common problem, especially on the 4.6
Car came in, customer complains of overheating etc, coolant tested and hydrocarbons noted, perhaps already had a headgasket done already - so only leaves one thing - the block.
You could of course be lucky and have an unrelated fault - all the same, full teardown and test would have to be the sensible option.

tobbjo · Post by **tobbjo** » Tue Nov 03, 2009 12:45 pm

When I read my reply today I see it way be seen as a bit unecessarily harsh. It was not my intention and I apologise if it was thaken that way!

Eliot: Yes, makes sense, I do not know if it has had a head gasket job done before changing the engine or not.

Ged: THat's worrying since it seems to correlate with my engine. What was the production year of your engine/block?

Tobias

Eliot · Post by **Eliot** » Tue Nov 03, 2009 1:29 pm

tobbjo wrote:When I read my reply today I see it way be seen as a bit unecessarily harsh. It was not my intention and I apologise if it was thaken that way!

Didn't come accross harsh to me at-all

ged · Post by **ged** » Tue Nov 03, 2009 5:47 pm

[/quote
Ged: THat's worrying since it seems to correlate with my engine. What was the production year of your engine/block?

Tobias][/quote

Hi Tobias, I think it's a 96 block. The original engine number started with 46D

Ged

ChrisJC · Post by **ChrisJC** » Wed Nov 04, 2009 9:48 am

You can pressure test yourself:

I blocked off the waterways, fitted the home-made adaptor to the top, dropped it in a tank of hot water, then put the air compressor on it. I ran it at about 50psi (not sure if that was OK or not!).
No leaks on mine

Chris.