need to get hydrocarbon level down for mot .2400 at idle and 2%co
how can i sort it.
will raising the co back up a little help.or adjusting the distributor/timing
regards pete
emissions 4.6 with weber 500
Moderator: phpBB2 - Administrators
you need to raise the co to 2.6 as is the best for that engine and for sure the hydrocarbon will go down to 1200 Re: emissions 4.6 with weber 500
v8 pete wrote:need to get hydrocarbon level down for mot .2400 at idle and 2%co
how can i sort it.
will raising the co back up a little help.or adjusting the distributor/timing
regards pete
If your eddy 500 is on the standard settings it will be setup too rich for your engine, have a read of this (under the bit on fuel pumps):-
http://how-to-build-a-pilgrim-sumo.wiki ... ing-system
I also wrote this on setting up the ignition (under the bit on braided hoses):-
http://how-to-build-a-pilgrim-sumo.wiki ... by-members
I'm not sure that you will be able to get the CO as low as you want, my motor does not like the idle AFR to get set that lean. Mine is happy at 13.5:1 which is around 2.5% CO I think from memory.
HTH,
Pete
-
CastleMGBV8
- Top Dog
- Posts: 2334
- Joined: Sat Aug 18, 2007 5:09 pm
- Location: Sidcup, Kent, UK
out of a 1990 motor
i tweeked the co down so that maybe the problem ,i cant check hydro carbons myself.
plus i have no timing mark so had to quess timing .
need to sort out a timing mark [but limited time at the moment]
engine had just been rolling roaded before it was removed from crashed car . but timing as moved .and was it tuned for power or emissions?
i tweeked the co down so that maybe the problem ,i cant check hydro carbons myself.
plus i have no timing mark so had to quess timing .
need to sort out a timing mark [but limited time at the moment]
engine had just been rolling roaded before it was removed from crashed car . but timing as moved .and was it tuned for power or emissions?
I doubt that it is possible as the design of the engine is too old to get a really, really clean burn. CATs will allow a 'dirty' engine to be fed the AFR that it needs whilst at the same time keeping the exhaust gases clean.v8 pete wrote:is it possible to get the emissions right down on this carb to pass later emissions test of a car fitted with cats.see other post for reason why needed
I could be wrong though, all you can do is keep fiddling with the carb and the ignition and see what happens.
Good luck,
Pete
Hi
I think you will not be able to get the emisions down where you need them to be with a carb, especially the 4 barrel type, you might just manage it with an SU but even then it would need to be a new one!
Also the rover is a bit of a marginal unit for emisions even on efi and cats as it is, there really isn't enough squish area to get a clean burn.
I really would sort out the issue with your engine builder, he presumably knew it was for a kit car that had to get through an SVA, so what was he doing removing the original engine number? Case of not fit for purpose if nothing else.
Best of luck
Mike
I think you will not be able to get the emisions down where you need them to be with a carb, especially the 4 barrel type, you might just manage it with an SU but even then it would need to be a new one!
Also the rover is a bit of a marginal unit for emisions even on efi and cats as it is, there really isn't enough squish area to get a clean burn. I really would sort out the issue with your engine builder, he presumably knew it was for a kit car that had to get through an SVA, so what was he doing removing the original engine number? Case of not fit for purpose if nothing else.
Best of luck
Mike
poppet valves rule!
At worst you need a new block, but is there no way you can get the original engine number on the existing block? Surely that is the solution?even if the original car has been scrapped the engine number will be on the registration documents, the builder needs to give you the paper work showing his purchase, and reciepts for machineing work and evidence leading to his sale to you, basic paper trail. If nothing else get him to get a reciept for a legit block, create the paper tail of purchase and get that number stamped on your block. As I posted earlier he must have been aware what it was going into so it is a fit for purpose issue, his problem because as it stands he has sold you an engine that you cannot use as intended.
Mike
Mike
poppet valves rule!
mike
i did not buy engine from builder. it came out another kit car .which i have the reg docs[pre sva]
engine was rebuilt in 2000 .so min 9 years old now,
i phoned up the builder from engine number. he was very helpfull and sent me a letter stating orginal engine block used.[from there records]
he as also said he will send me some more details out what was done to engine if it helps.
i could stamp the number back on the block because new number is in different place but maybe this would be a bit wrong now ,[would have two engine numbers].
this is not engine builders fault .
regards pete
i did not buy engine from builder. it came out another kit car .which i have the reg docs[pre sva]
engine was rebuilt in 2000 .so min 9 years old now,
i phoned up the builder from engine number. he was very helpfull and sent me a letter stating orginal engine block used.[from there records]
he as also said he will send me some more details out what was done to engine if it helps.
i could stamp the number back on the block because new number is in different place but maybe this would be a bit wrong now ,[would have two engine numbers].
this is not engine builders fault .
regards pete
Ah that is the bit I missed, I thought you had bought the engine from the builder... makes a little more sence now as to why you don't want to persue him. Right three choices, as far as I see it
1/ buy £75 of P6 engine, with SUs on it, fit it, stuff a couple of cans of redex through it and dribble about half a gallon of whater into the inlet while it is running (at about 1500 revs or so change the oil for fresh 20/50 and a can of STP or Whinns in the oil SVA it with that in, on visual smoke only, rip it out put the good motor in and register that engine as a changed rebuilt motor with the engine number you have.
2/ Fit the engine you have and fit a 4 barrel throttle plate on your existing manifold, port inject it using a vems or megasquirt efi with lambda sensors and acts, with care setting it up you should get it through SVA.
3/ fit the 4.6 borrow an LPG system, SVA it on the LPG only, no petrol system, bring it home take the LPG off fit a petrol tank and your carb and off you go
actually there is a fourth, create a paper trail that makes out the engine is infact a cross bolted 3.5 racing block from the early '80s, you will need to do your research for this one.
Best regards
Mike
1/ buy £75 of P6 engine, with SUs on it, fit it, stuff a couple of cans of redex through it and dribble about half a gallon of whater into the inlet while it is running (at about 1500 revs or so change the oil for fresh 20/50 and a can of STP or Whinns in the oil SVA it with that in, on visual smoke only, rip it out put the good motor in and register that engine as a changed rebuilt motor with the engine number you have.
2/ Fit the engine you have and fit a 4 barrel throttle plate on your existing manifold, port inject it using a vems or megasquirt efi with lambda sensors and acts, with care setting it up you should get it through SVA.
3/ fit the 4.6 borrow an LPG system, SVA it on the LPG only, no petrol system, bring it home take the LPG off fit a petrol tank and your carb and off you go
actually there is a fourth, create a paper trail that makes out the engine is infact a cross bolted 3.5 racing block from the early '80s, you will need to do your research for this one.
Best regards
Mike
poppet valves rule!
