Presumably you need the large breather pipe blocking off?
Do you want to retain the vac port for the brakes?
Also you will need a port for the fuel pressure regulator.
I have one feed that does map, fpr and boost guage. The wastegates are fed from the turbos.
Custom blended trumpet base - advice!
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Ah forgot about the FPR. So I need 3;
FPR, MAP Sensor & boost gauge/controller/wastegates
Ok so how many holes are there in the trumpet base then? Looks like two large threaded ones, and the breather on one side, and a small vac on the other??
At the end of the day I need 3 vac connections to run my motor, so whatever is best/easiest to do. I can always T a few together. Don't need the brake/servo adapter, or the breather connection either so make use of the holes however you can.
My wastegates are T together and combined with the piping for the boost control & boost gauge - all off one vac.
FPR, MAP Sensor & boost gauge/controller/wastegates
Ok so how many holes are there in the trumpet base then? Looks like two large threaded ones, and the breather on one side, and a small vac on the other??
At the end of the day I need 3 vac connections to run my motor, so whatever is best/easiest to do. I can always T a few together. Don't need the brake/servo adapter, or the breather connection either so make use of the holes however you can.
My wastegates are T together and combined with the piping for the boost control & boost gauge - all off one vac.
- topcatcustom
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On many heads epoxy based fillers are used to reshape inlet ports on heads and to give the final shape to tunnelram manifolds on very high performance race engines. I cant see anyone using the stuff on £20k plus engine builds if there was any real risk of it falling out and going through the engine. On properly clean surfaces epoxy sticks very strongly, my dad used it to fix castings to face plates so he could then machine them on the lathe, all machining loads going through the epoxy joint, and he only released them bu sticking the finnished casting and the faceplate in the oven on full wack until it burnt off, finally removing then with a whack with a hammer. If you have cleaned the casying, keyed it with a stainless steel wite brush and cleaned it with trychloromethanol I can't see it comming off with just a flow of air going past it. The stuff is very resistant to petrol, whitness the fact it is sold as petrol tank sealer. I would not worry about it comming off.
Mike
Mike
poppet valves rule!

