annealing stainless steel tube
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annealing stainless steel tube
Any one know what I need to do to soften the stuff so I can expand the ends of the tube with a tube expander ? The stainless is in the form of mandrell exhaust bends and have work hardened as a result of the bending process (well I assume it must have as if you tried to bend it in this state it would shatter!!)
Mike
Mike
poppet valves rule!
- Seight-V8
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hiya,
We use 1089degc for stainless steel formed parts at work.
But for annealing you will need to do it in a vaccum otherwise you will end up with lots of oxide & discolouration on the surface, which can alter the grain structure of the metal.
You could stress relieve it at lower temperatures but this would not relieve 100% of the stresses.
Best maybe to talk to someone who has made some stainless exhaust and has come across this problem.
As i dont think this is something you could do at home.
scott
We use 1089degc for stainless steel formed parts at work.
But for annealing you will need to do it in a vaccum otherwise you will end up with lots of oxide & discolouration on the surface, which can alter the grain structure of the metal.
You could stress relieve it at lower temperatures but this would not relieve 100% of the stresses.
Best maybe to talk to someone who has made some stainless exhaust and has come across this problem.
As i dont think this is something you could do at home.
scott
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stevieturbo
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stevieturbo
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- Ian Anderson
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Cross over - now you're talking but should be 4 into 1 with 2 and 3 on each side crossd over
I have slip joints and they leak
Reseal them and withing 100 miles blown the seals out again
Now they just leak a bit all the time as I'm tired of filling!
But I intend to get flanges done and a slightly longer silencer to try get on track as it's too noisy at the moment!
Ian
I have slip joints and they leak
Reseal them and withing 100 miles blown the seals out again
Now they just leak a bit all the time as I'm tired of filling!
But I intend to get flanges done and a slightly longer silencer to try get on track as it's too noisy at the moment!
Ian
Owner of an "On the Road" GT40 Replica by DAX powered by 3.9Hotwre Efi, worked over by DJ Motors. EFi Working but still does some kangaroo at low revs (Damn the speed limits) In to paint shop 18/03/08.
OK so anyone want to buy a pipe expander? flanges it is
Ian the set up is to join them into pairs firing 360 apart (ie 4 and 7) then immediatly join the paired ones to ones firing 180 relative to those, then join the resulting two into one big collector for about 6" before splitting into two to go into the silencers. It is basically like a Nascas SB" try Y collector set up but with the cross over of the cylinder banks, Oh and it all sits above the gearbox so I can boil the oil in that
.
Mike
Ian the set up is to join them into pairs firing 360 apart (ie 4 and 7) then immediatly join the paired ones to ones firing 180 relative to those, then join the resulting two into one big collector for about 6" before splitting into two to go into the silencers. It is basically like a Nascas SB" try Y collector set up but with the cross over of the cylinder banks, Oh and it all sits above the gearbox so I can boil the oil in that
Mike
poppet valves rule!
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Sounds interesting
Do you have a Before dyno sheet so you can compare to the After to see how much you gained?
An yes the heat they make is amazing!
It is definately worth having them ceramic coated as the ceramic reduces the heat lost but that will set you back about £300 - £400 for the headers and collectors.
Or Make sure you have a load of heatmat on the Exhaust side of the cover
Strangely Mild steel will reduce the heat transfer into the air around your gearbox (And probably allow you to use your (chest) expander)
Ian
Do you have a Before dyno sheet so you can compare to the After to see how much you gained?
An yes the heat they make is amazing!
It is definately worth having them ceramic coated as the ceramic reduces the heat lost but that will set you back about £300 - £400 for the headers and collectors.
Or Make sure you have a load of heatmat on the Exhaust side of the cover
Strangely Mild steel will reduce the heat transfer into the air around your gearbox (And probably allow you to use your (chest) expander)
Ian
Owner of an "On the Road" GT40 Replica by DAX powered by 3.9Hotwre Efi, worked over by DJ Motors. EFi Working but still does some kangaroo at low revs (Damn the speed limits) In to paint shop 18/03/08.
Actually a wanging great turbo in there would solve the problem of fitting in the 90 degree bend I need to do at the back of the car to be able to route the exhaust back under the car and get a silencer or two in there. Trouble is I recon I'm going to blow the cr*p out my gearbox as it is even without the trubo
.
Mike
Mike
poppet valves rule!

