Inlet manifold and carb fitting

[Wee_chris]

Just about to get started taking the horrible SU carbs and manifold of my Stag and replace it with a offenhauser 360 manifold and edlebrock 500 carb.

Ordered a inlet gasket, rubber seals and new bolts from Real Steel.

What I want to know does anybody recommend any sealant round any of the gasket?

Basically any hints and tips would be good, just cant face the lecture from the other half if I destroy her clean driveway with oil drips again.

[katanaman]

which inlet gasket did you order? If its the late factory spongy type one then no sealant if its tin or the hard black ones then yes. Go canny with it though so you don't end up with loads too much squeezing into the ports and stuff. All should be fine without sealant but the harder ones can leak a bit.

[sidecar]

Just about to get started taking the horrible SU carbs and manifold of my Stag and replace it with a offenhauser 360 manifold and edlebrock 500 carb.

Ordered a inlet gasket, rubber seals and new bolts from Real Steel.

What I want to know does anybody recommend any sealant round any of the gasket?

Basically any hints and tips would be good, just cant face the lecture from the other half if I destroy her clean driveway with oil drips again.

If the gasket is the later type that has rubber stuck to it I'd just make sure that everything is spotlessly clean, use brake/clutch cleaner on all the gasket faces.

If it’s an all-tin gasket then put a VERY thin smear of silicone round all the ports in the gasket on both sides of the gasket including the coolant ports. (On an Edlebrock manifold which is what I use the manifold blocks one set of coolant ports in each head, these still need to be sealed with silicone).

Leave the silicone to cure for at least ½ an hour before fitting the manifold.

I stripped one of the threads in one head whilst tightening up the manifold, I can’t remember what the torque figure supposed to be (37 ftlbs?) but I only did mine to about 20 ftlbs and it does not leak. In fact if you get everything nice and clean you can have a hell of a job getting the bloody thing off again!

Follow the tightening sequence that will be supplied with the manifold.

You should read about the webber 500, there is a thread running at the mo. They are a good carb but are setup badly out of the box. (Badly for a RV8 lump at any rate).

HTH,

Pete

[Wee_chris]

Thanks for the info.

think I have got a hard black gasket, they did not offer me any options.

What is the tightening sequence I bought the manifold and carb of one of the guys on this forum a few months back and this is me just getting round to fitting it.

[sidecar]

Thanks for the info.

think I have got a hard black gasket, they did not offer me any options.

What is the tightening sequence I bought the manifold and carb of one of the guys on this forum a few months back and this is me just getting round to fitting it.

If nobody else gives you a better answer my thoughts would be start in the middle and work your way out towards the ends in a criss cross fassion. Go up in stages on the torque setting up to your final value.

[mgbv8]

I just got a new valley gasket fro mine from Real Steel and its the black spongy type. I thought it would be all comp, but it appears to be sort material stuck on top of a tin gasket. Looks like it wont need sealant though.
I'll find out on Sunday afternoon when i start it up.

[Wee_chris]

Just checked my gasket and its black slightly spongy the same as mgbv8 describes.

Decide to wait until sunday to do mine also.

Not using car tomorrow or saturday so it can wait.

[Paul B]

I found my hard steel (?) gasket needed shaping (screwdriver and a small hammer) at the corners where the heads met the block, at the front, as there was an abrupt corner that left a gap under the gasket. That finally sealed it.....

[roofman]

ive always found when using silacone its best to coat the night before thus giving you a non-messy seal that wont overlap into the ports and waterways and attually more effective at sealing