At Wits End - Please Help..

need4speed · Post by **need4speed** » Fri Dec 04, 2015 2:15 pm

Bit of essential back story so please bare with me.

My dad had a 3.5 in his Capri. Ran well for many years. Then at the same time that I decided to build a V8 defender 110, he decided to upgrade from 3.5 to 4.6.

Long story short we split the bill for 2 brand spanking new 3.9 blocks from Eric Gorr. We got a great deal. If I remember correctly we got both blocks for £600.

Now fast forward to the point that we built a nice pair of 4.6's. Obviously slightly different specs to suit 2 totally different types of vehicle.

The Capri was completed and 1st impressions while driving raised huge grins. Especially as the car uses a 2 litre rear diff! However it soon became apparent that there was an overheating problem. Didn't think much of it. Presumed air lock. Nope. Then thought it was maybe old waterpump. Nope. Then renewed thermostat and sent the radiator away for professional reconditioning. Still not cured.

Starting to get frustrated at this point. Removed heads and had them x-rayed even though water doesn't appear to be getting pressurised. Checked out fine. Noticed that while radiator was roasting hot in the top half, it was cold in bottom half so in a rage my dad removed the recon radiator and cut the the ends off convinced that he would see a blockage in it. Guess what, it appears clear!!

I now put it to the collective to come up with ideas. We are flat out of them.

The ONLY thing I can think of now, and this is total guesswork, is that there is something not quite right with the brand new block. It's the only thing that has changed from the old 3.5 days when the car ran lovely..

The radiator is from an old Audi 5 cylinder. We have been told that it is more than man enough for the job. Besides, if the rad was too small it doesn't explain the difference in temp between the upper and bottom halfs.

Post by **Coops** » Fri Dec 04, 2015 4:48 pm

when you say over heating is it pumping water out the header tank? or just the gauge is reading high?

is it the same set up as per the 3.9 just with the new 4.6 block and heads?

have you had the blocks pressure tested?

I ran the same radiator (audi) on my 3.5 the 3.9 and also the 4.6 with no issues at all,
only changed it due to the intercooler restricting airflow to it,

need4speed · Post by **need4speed** » Fri Dec 04, 2015 4:52 pm

The block is brand spanking new tony. Shrink wrapped on a pallet.

Edit: Just to clarify for folks. It's not using water and it's not pressurising water. Just overheating. Hot top half of rad, cold bottom half.

Post by **Coops** » Fri Dec 04, 2015 5:04 pm

so how do you know its over heating if its not using water mate?
I'm a little confused lol

electric fan? engine fan?

the water will be colder out of the bottom as that's the idea hot in the top cold out the bottom, the stat then regulates the engine temp

need4speed · Post by **need4speed** » Fri Dec 04, 2015 5:07 pm

Sorry tony, just seen your edit.

Gauge is high and it's obviously roasting hot. Can't touch the top hose or top half of rad and at that point throws water out the header.

Post by **Coops** » Fri Dec 04, 2015 5:09 pm

right so it is using water then,
have you tried it with the stat removed?

Post by **Coops** » Fri Dec 04, 2015 5:11 pm

you using the 3.5 timing cover and water pump?

need4speed · Post by **need4speed** » Fri Dec 04, 2015 5:12 pm

Yes we tried it without any thermostat and made no difference unfortunately. Just took a little longer before it started to overheat.

3.5 timing cover and new waterpump.

Post by **Coops** » Fri Dec 04, 2015 5:18 pm

well if everything is as is per the old 3.5 days etc and only heads and block has changed I would be getting the block pressure tested next,

where did the block come from have you contacted them regarding testing the block?

need4speed · Post by **need4speed** » Fri Dec 04, 2015 5:24 pm

As I mentioned in op, the block was purchased brand new from Eric Gorr years ago.

Didn't think a factory fresh block would need pressure testing?

I take it the newer style (injection) blocks are compatible with carb-style heads? I.e the water ports where block mates to heads are the same?

Post by **Coops** » Fri Dec 04, 2015 5:32 pm

heads same regarding water ports,

well sorry to be the bearer of bad news if you have checked everything else would you not say its pointing towards the block???
how much did the 4.6 block cost you?

need4speed · Post by **need4speed** » Fri Dec 04, 2015 6:18 pm

I don't know. That's why I've come on here to see if anyone can see if I've overlooked anything.

I was hoping it wasn't the block. Firstly because it's brand new and secondly it means taking the engine back out to pressure test it.

Also, if it is the new block at fault, what does it mean for the engine in my 110 that hasn't even turned its crank yet? After all, the blocks were purchased as a pair..

Post by **Coops** » Fri Dec 04, 2015 6:50 pm

so what have you bought?

as I'm totally confused now lol, so lets start again...

your first post you say you bought a pair of 3.9 blocks, for £600 yeah?
when did you buy the 4.6 engines ??? or is this the 3.9 blocks your talking about???

need4speed · Post by **need4speed** » Fri Dec 04, 2015 6:57 pm

Why are you confused lol.

A pair of 4.6 engines were built out of a pair of new 3.9 blocks by using 4.6 cranks/rods etc..

Post by **Coops** » Fri Dec 04, 2015 7:06 pm

well you never said that did you lol,

if you bought two brand new blocks for £600 quid I would be suspect of the blocks,
as your looking around 1k for a new block each
3.9 blocks also suffered porous liners and cracks read up on the forum loads about it, also some came from the factory with faults, there is a post regarding block colouring too will have paint markings, red blue yellow etc which I think was the grading of the blocks,
who is this Eric Gorr? web site??