Hi Denis
I wouldn't have thought the thermostst would be opening at all pootling around at 30 so the top hose won't see any heat as it won't have any hot water from the engine flowing through it. Most of the heat loss under these conditions will be radiative from the ally block and through heat transfer from the oil and out through the sump. Also as you say if it is silicon bath sealer then that will isolate the probe pretty well.
Best regards
Mike
RV8 coolant temps
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I'm with you on this Chris. I must say, I am suprised at Mike's comment. I've never happened on a v8 that didn't need flow through the stat after a few minutes running either pootling or ticking over. It would need a very large thermostat bypass somehow flowing through the rad, which it normally dosen't, or, the heater is massive and running full blast.ChrisJC wrote:Not sure I agree with Mike (again!!).
In my opinion, the radiator will be working when driving at 30mph, just not that hard. I reckon it would boil over in no time at all if the stat was blocked off.
Chris.
Regards Denis
1950 A40 Devon Hotrod with 5.0 twin turbo RV8.
EDIS8 wasted spark, Holley Injection.
Been as far as the Moon and back in 57 years of driving. Same Car, 5 engine upgrades !!!
EDIS8 wasted spark, Holley Injection.
Been as far as the Moon and back in 57 years of driving. Same Car, 5 engine upgrades !!!
Hi
Just the experiance of the two range rovers I had, the things used to be hard to warm up at the best of times, with the first one I was convinced for ages there was a huge air lock because the top tube never seemed to get hot, it would warm up towing a heavy trailer or running in low ratio, but going down to tesco it never seemed to get properly warm. The second one again once it had the LPG kit
on it it again would not get properly warm just running about. Again fine towing and in low ratio but on a cold morning towing cars in low ratio up the hill outside our house in the snow it didn't really get more than warm. This experiance is one of the reasons I keep posting saying to be carefull putting lower temperature thermostats on here, I was never happy that my RRs ever got properly hot.
Best regards
Mike
Just the experiance of the two range rovers I had, the things used to be hard to warm up at the best of times, with the first one I was convinced for ages there was a huge air lock because the top tube never seemed to get hot, it would warm up towing a heavy trailer or running in low ratio, but going down to tesco it never seemed to get properly warm. The second one again once it had the LPG kit
on it it again would not get properly warm just running about. Again fine towing and in low ratio but on a cold morning towing cars in low ratio up the hill outside our house in the snow it didn't really get more than warm. This experiance is one of the reasons I keep posting saying to be carefull putting lower temperature thermostats on here, I was never happy that my RRs ever got properly hot.Best regards
Mike
poppet valves rule!
Hi Mike
On both your Range Rovers I would have diagnosed a faulty thermostat or one of very low setting. No doubt you would have checked.
My previous experience in the case of a warm top hose is that the stat is stuck open and in a Rangy with a large engine bay, large rad and engine driven fan it's likely it would not warm up to design temperature.
Regards Denis
On both your Range Rovers I would have diagnosed a faulty thermostat or one of very low setting. No doubt you would have checked.
My previous experience in the case of a warm top hose is that the stat is stuck open and in a Rangy with a large engine bay, large rad and engine driven fan it's likely it would not warm up to design temperature.
Regards Denis
1950 A40 Devon Hotrod with 5.0 twin turbo RV8.
EDIS8 wasted spark, Holley Injection.
Been as far as the Moon and back in 57 years of driving. Same Car, 5 engine upgrades !!!
EDIS8 wasted spark, Holley Injection.
Been as far as the Moon and back in 57 years of driving. Same Car, 5 engine upgrades !!!
Hi
Yup I checked the usual things on the first one, lightly boiled the thermostat on the hob ( started opening about 75 fully open about 85) from what I remember, either way that was what I had expected, which is why for a while I thought it was airlocks. The RR in question was on a 2" lift, boxer manifold, Headerman headers, and had air vents in the tpo rear of the bonnet and holes in the front of said bonnet with a baffel over the top of the Rad to get cold air to the carbs past the fan with heat deflecters over the headers. All intended to get cold air to the carbs, still I never really considered it to make that much diferance to underbody temperatures. The second one as I said only started running colder when the LPG system went in, I put that down to the evaporator pulling a good chunk of heat out the cooling system under light load and that it was a rangy. I also have a bad habbit on older cars of back flushing the cooling system once a year, (yes I had a series of minis) and I certainly did it on these two.
Best regards
Mike
Yup I checked the usual things on the first one, lightly boiled the thermostat on the hob ( started opening about 75 fully open about 85) from what I remember, either way that was what I had expected, which is why for a while I thought it was airlocks. The RR in question was on a 2" lift, boxer manifold, Headerman headers, and had air vents in the tpo rear of the bonnet and holes in the front of said bonnet with a baffel over the top of the Rad to get cold air to the carbs past the fan with heat deflecters over the headers. All intended to get cold air to the carbs, still I never really considered it to make that much diferance to underbody temperatures. The second one as I said only started running colder when the LPG system went in, I put that down to the evaporator pulling a good chunk of heat out the cooling system under light load and that it was a rangy. I also have a bad habbit on older cars of back flushing the cooling system once a year, (yes I had a series of minis) and I certainly did it on these two.
Best regards
Mike
poppet valves rule!
Cheers for the replies guys. The probe is protruding 2/3 from the end of a chemical metal 'seat' I formed in the end of the tube, and the wire is sealed all the way up with silicone. So no insulation! It has got to 95c off road but that's only because I knocked the fan thermostat fixing some burned wiring! Still, she runs a treat!
Gents,
I have just overhauled my engine 3.9L V8 EFI LR Discovery, new cam, lifters, HD gaskets with new ARP studs, in due course I had to fit a new condenser a smaller fin spacing to allow for the summer heat, plus refit a low fin height radiator for ambient of 40c and above.
I replaced the engine coolant for Comma Fleet guard, 50/50 pre mix with distilled water, same time I replaced for a wax stat OEM 88c & new expansion tank filler cap, so far so good.
The only difference I had noted on the stat was between the old & new was a little brass / nylon (non return valve) pin, on the old stat this was removed, the new one had it, so I left it on there, it was installed at the 12O'clock position.
I’ve had a few air locks, throughout the last month, been a pain in trying to clear them, I filled from the rad, then from the expansion tank, ran the engine, with the heaters on, cooled and filled, but still I can hear the air around the heater matrix, what am I doing wrong?
As for the coolant temps, early morning it runs around 88c – 92c ambient 29c – 33c, this afternoon its around the late 30’s to 40c my temp is around 94c – 96c standing traffic, of course the viscous fan kicks in when I move (ram effect), to lower it by a good 4c.
Are these running temps for the V8 good, as I can’t really do much else about the ambient temp, all temps are measured at the top hose via a SPA digital gauge.
Cheers for the replies,
Jim
I have just overhauled my engine 3.9L V8 EFI LR Discovery, new cam, lifters, HD gaskets with new ARP studs, in due course I had to fit a new condenser a smaller fin spacing to allow for the summer heat, plus refit a low fin height radiator for ambient of 40c and above.
I replaced the engine coolant for Comma Fleet guard, 50/50 pre mix with distilled water, same time I replaced for a wax stat OEM 88c & new expansion tank filler cap, so far so good.
The only difference I had noted on the stat was between the old & new was a little brass / nylon (non return valve) pin, on the old stat this was removed, the new one had it, so I left it on there, it was installed at the 12O'clock position.
I’ve had a few air locks, throughout the last month, been a pain in trying to clear them, I filled from the rad, then from the expansion tank, ran the engine, with the heaters on, cooled and filled, but still I can hear the air around the heater matrix, what am I doing wrong?
As for the coolant temps, early morning it runs around 88c – 92c ambient 29c – 33c, this afternoon its around the late 30’s to 40c my temp is around 94c – 96c standing traffic, of course the viscous fan kicks in when I move (ram effect), to lower it by a good 4c.
Are these running temps for the V8 good, as I can’t really do much else about the ambient temp, all temps are measured at the top hose via a SPA digital gauge.
Cheers for the replies,
Jim
