Landie cooling issue - RV8

General Chat About Cooling & Overheating

Moderator: phpBB2 - Administrators

Post Reply
Lewis
Getting There
Getting There
Posts: 321
Joined: Mon Nov 27, 2006 11:32 am
Location: Coventry

Landie cooling issue - RV8

Post by Lewis »

Having a few teething troubles with my mate's Landie and just wondered if anyone could give us a few pointers. Seems to think I might know something about RV8s for some reason :?: :lol:

He's had it for a while now and it drove excellently, not a sign of overheating and never got about 1/2 on the gauge with the Kenlowe on.

Now, I've noticed that the fan is very poorly installed (about 2" from the radiator with no shroud :lol: which probably doesn't help but anyway, going to help him fix that tomorrow by relocating the brackets.

Basically when you start the Rover it'll idle and takes about 5-10 minutes to start bringing up the temperature which seems fine to me.

However, if you're stationary after this the temperature spikes up to almost the red. As soon as you move off (oddly) it drops very quickly back to the middle region of the gauge.

We took it out around town and it did exactly this, creeping up when in slow traffic as well to almost the red. When we pulled over and looked underneath, it'd dropped a bit of coolant on the floor. Couldn't see for the life of us where it was coming from but one of the hoses looks a bit suspect.

Now it's back on his drive it's again dropped a little bit of coolant. Engine sounds fantastic, goes well, no smoke and doesn't feel dangerously hot but the expansion tank is quite toasty. The coolant leakage might just be from him being a bit happy-go-lucky topping up the header tank, as it's got no markings and is a little thing at best.

All radiator hoses feel toasty so obviously there's flow through it.

I'm thinking that this might be a jammed or damaged thermostat?

Or at worst a dodgy waterpump (slipping at low speeds?).

Anyone got any common pointers, or what to look for? I'm going to get him to change the thermo as a matter of trial as it's only a cheap part :)
Last edited by Lewis on Mon Jun 25, 2007 12:17 pm, edited 1 time in total.



Lewis
Getting There
Getting There
Posts: 321
Joined: Mon Nov 27, 2006 11:32 am
Location: Coventry

Post by Lewis »

Just thought I'd say I tried consulting the Database but it's down so I can't get at the old stuff! :lol:

Lewis
Getting There
Getting There
Posts: 321
Joined: Mon Nov 27, 2006 11:32 am
Location: Coventry

Post by Lewis »

Well, bit of an update - ran it without the expansion cap for a bit and there was a big 'glug' as what I presume was a large quantity of air burped out.

Seems to hold OK now (left it idling for a while, noted the fan come on etc).

Does still sit too heavy in traffic (just under or over 3/4) so will make it my primary target to move the fan onto the radiator, instead of vaguely in the area :lol:

Got a new thermo & coolant too, so may as well do that whilst I'm there :)

ramon alban
Knows His Stuff
Knows His Stuff
Posts: 667
Joined: Fri Nov 17, 2006 11:22 pm
Location: Bedford UK
Contact:

Post by ramon alban »

Lewis wrote:Well, bit of an update - ran it without the expansion cap for a bit and there was a big 'glug' as what I presume was a large quantity of air burped out.

Seems to hold OK now (left it idling for a while, noted the fan come on etc).

Does still sit too heavy in traffic (just under or over 3/4) so will make it my primary target to move the fan onto the radiator, instead of vaguely in the area :lol:

Got a new thermo & coolant too, so may as well do that whilst I'm there :)
You had and may still have airlocks. Make sure the rad is full, and the expansion tank also, raise the idle speed to 2000 or so with cap off, watch it burp, pour in some coolant to fill the tank and jam the lid on. Blip the throttle a few times and watch the engine suck coolant from the tank, take the cap off, fill the tank again and repeat all this a few times until no more burps.

Job done. The above works fine on my SD1, dont know about other systems.

Lewis
Getting There
Getting There
Posts: 321
Joined: Mon Nov 27, 2006 11:32 am
Location: Coventry

Post by Lewis »

OK, thanks! I've got it outside at the moment so we'll go play.

Finish our cheese sandwiches though first!

Thanks Ramon - and also, thanks for the EFi guide. Found my CO adjustment screw was all the way in on the flapper. Wound it out 2.5 turns, now it doesn't do that 'rythmic hunting' either and (although probably placebo) goes better as well! :lol:

Top marks! 8-)

User avatar
ChrisJC
Top Dog
Top Dog
Posts: 5040
Joined: Mon Nov 20, 2006 1:13 pm
Location: Northants / Cambs
Contact:

Post by ChrisJC »

What sort of Landie is it?, the series radiator is marginal with an electric fan.

Chris.
--
Series IIA 4.6 V8
R/R P38 4.6 V8
R/R L405 4.4 SDV8

Lewis
Getting There
Getting There
Posts: 321
Joined: Mon Nov 27, 2006 11:32 am
Location: Coventry

Post by Lewis »

A series III, SWB.

Fixed it now! Did as Ramon suggested and got about 2 litres into the cooling system :shock:

All sorted now, runs dead cool and even in traffic the fan takes it down, and switches off and it sits there contentedly.

Tomorrow we'll take it for another jaunt and see if any of the fluid has disappeared or not :)

ramon alban
Knows His Stuff
Knows His Stuff
Posts: 667
Joined: Fri Nov 17, 2006 11:22 pm
Location: Bedford UK
Contact:

Post by ramon alban »

Lewis wrote:Fixed it now! Did as Ramon suggested and got about 2 litres into the cooling system :shock:

All sorted now, runs dead cool and even in traffic the fan takes it down, and switches off and it sits there contentedly.

Good news Lewis! Its interesting because so many people complain about this problem and are loath to believe that a V8 Rover SD1 can perform continuously on a hot day in all sorts of traffic with the temp gauge rock steady. Mine has a good viscous fan coupling which of course is part of a negative feedback temperature control loop.

Yet that is exactly how they behave when they came new from the factory, otherwise the executive customers would have been all over the dealerships like a bad rash, and that just did not happen.

The retro fit on/off electric fan is more crude and underbonnet temperature can vary more, but you seem to indicate that its pretty stable.

To make it even better, you might consider back flushing the radiator, heater matrix and engine block galleries, which, if it has not been done for a while, may surprise you even further regarding the crud that comes out.

sowen
Getting There
Getting There
Posts: 248
Joined: Sat Feb 24, 2007 10:10 am
Location: Warwickshire

Post by sowen »

I've got almost the same set-up on my landy, a single 13" kenlowe with manual override, and a 4 core series radiator. The temp gauge sits on 1/3 all the time, even when driven hard, rising only to 1/2 on the hottest of days. After a long hot run, the fan will come on for about 1 minute, and go off for 2-3 minutes before coming back on for a minute and so on.

It sits happily in traffic without any problems. It never dumps its water into my overflow bottle either, as I haven't needed to empty it since I put the v8 in over a year ago now!

Simon
1972 Rover 2000TC M16 turbo
1975 Land Rover OM606 diesel
1984 Rover SD1 3500 Megasquirt powered

Post Reply

Return to “Cooling Area”