Evans waterless coolant. The first test !

mgbv8 · Post by **mgbv8** » Sun Jun 02, 2013 5:16 pm

Does exactly what it says on the tin. Engine at 94C, turn it off, crack the exp tank cap and just a slight puff for less than a second. Mainly because I have a small air pocket in the top hose which I can get out when I drill a vent into the remote stat housing. This is a new housing which I forgot to modify with the air vent /top up filler hole at the high point.

94C and the hoses were not hard. Even with the air pocket (about 3" of 2" top hose) there cant have been more than 1psi in the system.

I'm well pleased with the stuff

Its not cheap. But its peace of mind for me to know that if I get too hot on the track I'll not be risking a blown hose.

Perry

Post by **katanaman** » Sun Jun 02, 2013 5:27 pm

Seen this stuff a while ago but never knew anyone who used it. It seems like a great idea and puts zero stress on the cooling system. Have you noticed any difference good or bad on its actual ability to cool?

mgbv8 · Post by **mgbv8** » Sun Jun 02, 2013 5:48 pm

Hi Marki!

They said to expect a few degree's more on average running temps. And thats what I got. 4 degree's to be exact. I know how she cools and what temps I get during and after a race. Back in the pits after a race on a warm day I would normally see 90C when I shut off. On both test runs it was 4 degree's warmer

What I did notice was an apparent improvement in cool down time after the engine has been stopped. We normally have the bonnet up to let the engine cool. I reckon it was about 15 mins quicker to cool down naturally to 60C.

And when we put the blower fan on the engine it was down to 40C in minutes. Obviuosly I cant make any comments on road performance because this is a race only car.

I'm very pleased with the stuff.

Pel

Post by **katanaman** » Sun Jun 02, 2013 6:12 pm

Seems like a winner all round then

Ian Anderson · Post by **Ian Anderson** » Sun Jun 02, 2013 6:42 pm

Does the Pod know you have that in the system and allow it?

I have heard some tracks will only allow pure water as all additives if spilled take a lot to clear up and are slippery

Ian

mgbv8 · Post by **mgbv8** » Sun Jun 02, 2013 8:21 pm

Its a drag strip Ian. Not a Circuit. Most circuits wont allow anything other than water. But at the Pod you can race with anything in the system.

stevieturbo · Post by **stevieturbo** » Sun Jun 02, 2013 9:05 pm

Will they also ban people from using oil in their engines ? oil in their gearboxes ? It's slippy stuff too.

I used this over a year ago on a friends Subaru. Really dont have anything bad to say about it, other than overall cost of prep+fluid

From a dry build you could avoid the prep fluid though, so cost would be halved.

I never particularly noticed any increase in running temp, and the system worked great on an engine pushing close to 700hp.
One other good point is that it helps monitor head gasket integrity because the coolant doesnt naturally increase pressure. So if there isnt any pressure in the system it's all good. If there is, then HG integrity could be suspect.

But what I would say is that if you're running a colder thermostat then I'd struggle to justify using this. Chances of hot spots are slim, and you're pushing the water coolant nowhere near it's limits anyway, so should never see a boil scenario.

If you run a hotter thermostat closer to waters natural boiling, then Evans would make a lot of sense.

As to how it would perform in an engine that has marginal cooling capacity I dont know though. It's SHC is lower than water, so in that respect it cannot cool as well. But then water once boiled has almost zero SHC...so there is an argument both ways.

But it does what it says on the tin so to speak.

Ian Anderson · Post by **Ian Anderson** » Sun Jun 02, 2013 9:36 pm

Fairy snuff

Sounds more sensible than some organisers

Ian

mgbv8 · Post by **mgbv8** » Mon Jun 03, 2013 11:50 am

I bought the prep fluid as well because I thought I was goning to do the conversion. But as I rebuilt the engine it was dry anyway, so I didnt need it. So I now have 7 litres of prep fluid to sell cheap

Its not cheap at about £64 per gallon as I said above. But its peace of mind for me.

teamidris · Post by **teamidris** » Tue Jun 04, 2013 7:19 pm

Maybe not the right forum, but I thought it would do very well for people on overland trips. Nothing worse than a breakdown in the middle of nowhere due to a popped hose or rad core!
I like the idea of the stuff, but with a rear rad it all looked a bit pricey for gallons

4 degrees sounds rightish. Like stevieturbo says, less heat capacity means the rad will need to drop more degrees temp from the hot liquid to do the same wattage dissipated. So the average liquid temperature will have to rise to compensate, pushing the guage temp with it. I recon it will always do that veiwing it from the maths end of things. (I had wondered looking at the product).
Could be worse though, I'd have to make the core at least 30% bigger to do the same cooling with oil

stevieturbo · Post by **stevieturbo** » Tue Jun 04, 2013 10:41 pm

The rise is due to some other factor to do with the fluid. Cant recall the specifics.

But overall temperature should remain the same, as that is governed by the thermostat.

Post by **katanaman** » Wed Jun 05, 2013 9:56 pm

Yes thinking about it your right Stevie. It may not transfer heaters well but assuming the radiator isn't maxed out the temps should stay the same. Even if it does go up though it doesn't matter since the boiling point is much higher so long as your not in the damage metal heat range.