If the core has the airflow to remove the heat from the core, then I guess yes that makes sense.
I would still prefer to have the largest core that will fit in my car, regardless of how coolant passages are configured.
But having passages like that will offer a large restriction to water flow, which may slow overall flow down. Ive never heard anyone to say this is a good thing.
Always more flow is better.
But maybe it will have plenty anyway
If he's stating FOC if it doesnt work, then you really have nothing to lose. I'd still try and get it made bigger where possible.
Just heard back from Serck Motorsport, and it's not good news,
My so called ally rad is a modded intercooler,
he was surprised the car was keeping cool let alone drivable without boiling,
waiting for a quote back on a new 3 core ally rad OUCH!!!!
Coops
Have you tried docking radiators in Silverstone for a quote?
Ian
Owner of an "On the Road" GT40 Replica by DAX powered by 3.9Hotwre Efi, worked over by DJ Motors. EFi Working but still does some kangaroo at low revs (Damn the speed limits) In to paint shop 18/03/08.
The guys at Serck are fellow racers and are in the same car club as myself,
and as the old interadiator of mine is there they have a base template to work too already,
Hate to say it but no, you are trying to get the maximum cooling from a radiator. High flow could easily mean not enough cooling. One also wants to ensure the water goes all around the radiator and not simply from centre top to centre bottom as then the only bit cooling is the small centre portion.
Richard.
Dax Rush 5.0l TVR V8, EFI with Megasquirt ECU and wasted spark, Racelogic Traction Control and Quaife LSD ....... Now nut and bolt restoring a TR6
Hate to say it but no, you are trying to get the maximum cooling from a radiator. High flow could easily mean not enough cooling. One also wants to ensure the water goes all around the radiator and not simply from centre top to centre bottom as then the only bit cooling is the small centre portion.
Those comments come from people who work with fluid dynamics etc etc, not myself directly.
There is no reason you would want a low rate of flow from the pump, and is largely why most electric pumps are crap. They simply dont flow anywhere near enough.
Yes by design you will encourage water to flow slowly through the radiator core, but you do that by increasing volume. Not by reducing actual pump flow rate.
If you reduced pump flow, you would also reduce water flow through the engine, which would be a huge negative. More change of hot spots, water boiling etc etc
Please explain why more flow isn't usually better. I say "usually" because there will come a point when nasty things happen with pressures when bits of engine can't sustain supersonic flow rates, then there's pump cavitation issues etc. But up until this point (which I suspect is mostly out of scope for most RV8 water pumps), why would less flow ever be better?
Are you saying that you might conspire that the engine can put heat in to the water faster than the radiator can extract it, so hot water gets back to the engine? If so isn't that just a badly designed, sized or implemented radiator?
I've heard some talk before about slow flow being better, but as yet there's been no evidence presented other than "someone said" - I'd like to understand these things a bit better for getting my new TVR engine installed. (Naturally sceptical about things I know I don't fully understand)
As I said, it's more about maximum cooling and the key points I have but are geared to a Dax Rush / Se7en:
1 Maximum cooling is gained by slowing down the air supply in front of the radiator. To do this, add ducting from nose cone to the radiator surface. The reason is that the nose cone’s cross-sectional area is smaller than radiator surface area so by adding ducting to direct all air through the nose cone to radiator’s surface without gaps, air is slowed down. I.e. Fast air through cone is now slowed as the ducting increases cross-sectional area. (Same logic as a aeroplane wing.)
Slow air takes much more heat from core than fast flowing air as it has more time to heat up (unless too slow and does not move,I guess).
2 Fans should be sucking and not blowing because you do not want airflow turbulence*, you want smooth airflow at low speed. A blowing fan not only gets in the way of airflow but will blow air in all directions and what goes through the radiator core will go through with significant turbulence. A sucking fan will suck air through the core smoothly.
You should also have plenty of room for the hot air after the radiator (and sucking fan) to escape the engine area. Flared side panels are a good idea.
*Note that the Dax fan at an angle is even worse as it churns up the air through the nose cone.
3 Put your fan temp sensor on the output side of the radiator, not inlet as then the fan only comes on if the radiator cannot cool enough. If the radiator is cooling enough, the fan will not come on.
4 Within the radiator you need to force the water through furthest cooling distance. An inlet in the centre top and the outlet at centre bottom will mean that the water will take the shortest route and be cooled by a small section of the core. I had internal ducting put in the header and bottom tanks so the water took the furthest route. Some radiators have a barrier across the centre so the water has to spread throughout each radiator – if you like two radiators on top of each other with a connection opposite to the inlet / outlets.
5 A thick core allows air to take the maximum heat out as the flowing air stays in contact with core longer.
6 On a Rush, there is no point in having radiator lower than nose cone as air will not get there unless you add more ducting / holes to let in air. Thus you can have a smaller radiator height. The design of a short, thick dumpy radiator is best.
My radiator core is 70mm thick.
Richard.
Dax Rush 5.0l TVR V8, EFI with Megasquirt ECU and wasted spark, Racelogic Traction Control and Quaife LSD ....... Now nut and bolt restoring a TR6
@ "Advanced cooling system basics" as a title.