i am very slowly building up a v8 scimitar GTE rod for street and drags. Am getting to the point where i am pretty happy with running gear but now comes the time for that lovely paint stuff.
The paint on the car is in alright condition. im not too worried about drilling, cutting and re gelling the stress fractures but does anyone know of the best method for painting the shell.
I have heard many different stories ranging from taking back to the gel coat and starting again to just lightly sanding back the original paint and using that as a base coat.
any thoughts?
fiberglass painting
Moderator: phpBB2 - Administrators
-
karrionchris
- Forum Contributor
- Posts: 39
- Joined: Sat Nov 28, 2009 8:55 am
- Location: Basingstoke
- Contact:
-
topcatcustom
- Forum Contributor
- Posts: 2965
- Joined: Sat Aug 09, 2008 11:53 am
- Location: Essex
- Contact:
Whenever I have tried painting fibreglass its bee a proper bastard. You need to use etch primer which basically has an acidy content and bites better than normal primer (thats the kiddy version which I understand anyway!!) Even using this technique with brand new fibreglass parts or old ones I usually seem to get a few pin pricks where it refuses to stick 
TC
What's the paint already there, celly, 1k, etc etc. Might affect your choice. If it's good and really sound, no real reason not to sand and primer/paint over. If at all loose, worn etc, best sanded back.
Must say I don't really get why folks use etch on 'glass, I know they do though. Etch is meant for metal, the acid to get a bite on that. So you do a thin etch coat, then primer, then colour. So basically on 'glass you're getting a thin primer, the acid does nothing useful.
I've not done a lot of 'glass but use 2k epoxy primer, then 2k hi-build primer, then colour. Hot-rodding friends do the same. Or use normal 2k primer instead of epoxy. 2k is nasty dangerous stuff though, read up etc if in any doubt.
The epoxy helps seal against solvent pop from the glass underneath. Boat builders use it.
Marki/Katanaman's site I think has paint pages for his Scim.
Must say I don't really get why folks use etch on 'glass, I know they do though. Etch is meant for metal, the acid to get a bite on that. So you do a thin etch coat, then primer, then colour. So basically on 'glass you're getting a thin primer, the acid does nothing useful.
I've not done a lot of 'glass but use 2k epoxy primer, then 2k hi-build primer, then colour. Hot-rodding friends do the same. Or use normal 2k primer instead of epoxy. 2k is nasty dangerous stuff though, read up etc if in any doubt.
The epoxy helps seal against solvent pop from the glass underneath. Boat builders use it.
Marki/Katanaman's site I think has paint pages for his Scim.
-
karrionchris
- Forum Contributor
- Posts: 39
- Joined: Sat Nov 28, 2009 8:55 am
- Location: Basingstoke
- Contact:
im fairly sure its 2K on there now. I did have ago at painting my bonnet for a temporary test as i put a pig scoop hole in it. for this i used shitty halfords celly primer and colour. it seems to have worked alright but i did get some spray lines.
i do want to go satin black on the car so weather a simple couple of coats of 2K primer followed by colour will do the job.
i do want to go satin black on the car so weather a simple couple of coats of 2K primer followed by colour will do the job.
Reliant Scimitar Se5a
4.6 rover v8
4.6 rover v8
Hi
If I may add my 6d worth?
Without wishing to offend you by teaching you how to suck eggs, when you come to re gelling the stress cracks you should grind or flat sand with a P60 grit disc take the gel right back to the laminates.
If you do not do this all you are doing is gelling over the top of the repair site and the cracks will come back fairly quickly.
The cracks must be totally removed from the gel.You may see some trace lines in the laminates under the gel and ideally you would blend the laminates and the gel into a smooth surface approximately two thirds larger than the original repair site to effect a seamless repair.Once this has been done you can then re gel with 3 coats allowing for curing and shrinkage between each coat and after the final coat has been applied leave it at least 18 hrs in a temperature of at least 60 dc if at all possible(ideally you would have this temp before applying the gel.)This would allow the whole structure to be at a relaxed state and will allow the gel to flow evenly when applied.
Acetone wash the gel once cured (it will still be sticky) and then flat sand the gel back to the original surface finishing on a 400grit paper.
If you are doing the whole car then 400 the lot and then use either panel wipe or a petrol damped rag and wipe the whole car down.This will kill any greasy finger prints etc.
Once you are happy with the finish you can then if you want to spray on Upol acid 8 etch primer as this kills any amines within the glass and gel surface and will provide a good key for the topcoats.
We use rattle cans most of the time for small repair sites but do have a sprayer who works for us and he has no problems with our prep work if doing a larger section say the whole side of a boat.
If you are using rattle cans warm them in a bucket of hot water for a while as this will help the paint to flow out when it goes onto the body.
As already mentioned I do not wish to offend you with my ramblings or question your ability to carry out the job, more that we do this kind of work every day professionally and have no problems at all.
Hope this helps
cheers
Paul
If I may add my 6d worth?
Without wishing to offend you by teaching you how to suck eggs, when you come to re gelling the stress cracks you should grind or flat sand with a P60 grit disc take the gel right back to the laminates.
If you do not do this all you are doing is gelling over the top of the repair site and the cracks will come back fairly quickly.
The cracks must be totally removed from the gel.You may see some trace lines in the laminates under the gel and ideally you would blend the laminates and the gel into a smooth surface approximately two thirds larger than the original repair site to effect a seamless repair.Once this has been done you can then re gel with 3 coats allowing for curing and shrinkage between each coat and after the final coat has been applied leave it at least 18 hrs in a temperature of at least 60 dc if at all possible(ideally you would have this temp before applying the gel.)This would allow the whole structure to be at a relaxed state and will allow the gel to flow evenly when applied.
Acetone wash the gel once cured (it will still be sticky) and then flat sand the gel back to the original surface finishing on a 400grit paper.
If you are doing the whole car then 400 the lot and then use either panel wipe or a petrol damped rag and wipe the whole car down.This will kill any greasy finger prints etc.
Once you are happy with the finish you can then if you want to spray on Upol acid 8 etch primer as this kills any amines within the glass and gel surface and will provide a good key for the topcoats.
We use rattle cans most of the time for small repair sites but do have a sprayer who works for us and he has no problems with our prep work if doing a larger section say the whole side of a boat.
If you are using rattle cans warm them in a bucket of hot water for a while as this will help the paint to flow out when it goes onto the body.
As already mentioned I do not wish to offend you with my ramblings or question your ability to carry out the job, more that we do this kind of work every day professionally and have no problems at all.
Hope this helps
cheers
Paul
-
karrionchris
- Forum Contributor
- Posts: 39
- Joined: Sat Nov 28, 2009 8:55 am
- Location: Basingstoke
- Contact:
Hi
It really does depend on the state of the rest of the paint.
If you have any doubts at all then flat it back with 400.
This may seem a little harsh to finish on and some would say that you can go as low as 1000grit.
We have found that with the Upol primer it takes up any imperfections and if you want to be really anal you can flat back the primer and spray a light black guide coat over the primer which will show low spots.These can be filled and flat sanded(DRY ONLY ) until you have a super straight body.
Our rule of thumb is this...if in doubt flat it!!
At the end of the day it is your car and it is you who have to make the final choice on how far you go with the prep work.
As an aside I did not have time because of work, to do my own car and had it done by a well respected colleague and it took him 10 weeks from start to finish because he knew I am a pain in the butt when it comes to prep and it had to be just right before any paint went on and the results speak for themselves.
Remember, the better the prep ,the better the finish.
Lecture over
Cheers
Paul
It really does depend on the state of the rest of the paint.
If you have any doubts at all then flat it back with 400.
This may seem a little harsh to finish on and some would say that you can go as low as 1000grit.
We have found that with the Upol primer it takes up any imperfections and if you want to be really anal you can flat back the primer and spray a light black guide coat over the primer which will show low spots.These can be filled and flat sanded(DRY ONLY ) until you have a super straight body.
Our rule of thumb is this...if in doubt flat it!!
At the end of the day it is your car and it is you who have to make the final choice on how far you go with the prep work.
As an aside I did not have time because of work, to do my own car and had it done by a well respected colleague and it took him 10 weeks from start to finish because he knew I am a pain in the butt when it comes to prep and it had to be just right before any paint went on and the results speak for themselves.
Remember, the better the prep ,the better the finish.
Lecture over
Cheers
Paul
