V8 into an 88 Landy

marcjagman · Post by **marcjagman** » Wed Jul 20, 2011 7:20 pm

Already thinking of my next project, god only knows why. How easy/difficult would it be to put a RV8 into an old Landy 88? I'm thinking not too hard really, however, I don't think it would be what you might call a quick motor. Could the diffs have new CWP put in or would Range Rover axles be better? May even make it 2wd, what axle could I use? Scimitar maybe? All thoughts will be welcome.

ChrisJC · Post by **ChrisJC** » Wed Jul 20, 2011 8:27 pm

Piece of piss. Just get the adaptor plate to fit the standard gearbox. You have to cut the footwells a bit.
Get Range Rover diffs (otherwise the gearing is stupidly short).
In 2WD mode you fill find it a bit lively! Short wheelbase + rubbish traction = going in circles a lot.

Chris.

marcjagman · Post by **marcjagman** » Wed Jul 20, 2011 8:56 pm

In 2WD mode you fill find it a bit lively! Short wheelbase + rubbish traction = going in circles a lot.

Chris.[/quote]
Sounds fun. How easy or hard would it be to fit a V8 box? Thinking of going the auto route.

ChrisJC · Post by **ChrisJC** » Thu Jul 21, 2011 6:54 am

Depends which 'box. I fitted the ZF4HP22 to mine, which is a very long box. It also comes with full-time 4WD, so I switched to Range Rover axles (with disc brakes all round), and Range Rover power steering whilst I was at it. So overall quite a few changes.

The 4HP22 is a very long box, so it was a squeeze to put it mildly, the rear propshaft is very short.

A 2WD with an autobox is the worst of both worlds. When it changes gear whilst you are cornering, the snatch on the transmission is enough to cause the rear end to loose grip and you're suddenly going sideways!

Chris.

marcjagman · Post by **marcjagman** » Thu Jul 21, 2011 7:31 am

Looks like I could be going manual then if the auto is a bit on the long side. Plenty of cheap Range Rovers around to swap the bits over.

russell_ram · Post by **russell_ram** » Thu Jul 21, 2011 9:43 am

But I think the manuals from a V8 are the same length as the autos - they deliberately have a very long bell housing to make them the same. Handbrake drum ends up in the same place whether you use an auto or manual if you source them from a Range Rover or Discovery - unless you use your original box and an adaptor.

DaveEFI · Post by **DaveEFI** » Thu Jul 21, 2011 10:03 am

Not being a 4x4 type, I've often wondered why the auto is spaced so far back on the RR. I sort of assumed the distance between the engine and transfer box was determined by the manual. But is this not the case? Is it the transfer box that determines things - perhaps to keep prop lengths as close to the same or whatever?

russell_ram · Post by **russell_ram** » Thu Jul 21, 2011 12:12 pm

I don't think the auto is 'spaced back'. The T/C housing is pretty much full of torque converter and couldn't be much shorter, a ZF auto main box is the same length wherever it's sourced from, and the t/box is identical between auto and manual. The only real 'spare space' is the ZF main gearbox to transfer box adaptor casting but that houses the adaptor shaft and realistically couldn't be that much shorter while still utilising a common t/box with the manual. There is a bit of spare space in the 4.0 RR T/C housing but that's only because the 4.6 carries a larger torque converter in the same casting. So the auto/transfer box assembly pretty much sets the minimum transmission length - the manual then has a huge bell housing to place the t/box flanges/trans cross member/exhaust runs etc etc in the same position as the autos. It is all about commonalityas you correctly assume.

ChrisJC · Post by **ChrisJC** » Thu Jul 21, 2011 12:41 pm

The 4HP22 in the Range Rover does have a much longer bellhousing than is necessary.

There's probably a couple of inches in there.

Of course, the bellhousing is the only one which fits the RV8. If you modified a bellhousing from elsewhere you might be able to shorten it.

Or get a LT77 'box from a Range Rover and change the bellhousing and input shaft to those from an SD1. That would shave quite a bit off the length.

Chris.

kiwicar · Post by **kiwicar** » Thu Jul 21, 2011 12:52 pm

Hi
If you want a shorter overall set up you could go 101FC 4 speed manual, it has a very short bell housing, specific to the FC and the 4 speed box is also short, the trouble is you are then stuck with a slow changing 4 speed unless you can find an overdrive for it.
Best regards
Mike

DaveEFI · Post by **DaveEFI** » Thu Jul 21, 2011 12:53 pm

russell_ram wrote:I don't think the auto is 'spaced back'. The T/C housing is pretty much full of torque converter and couldn't be much shorter, a ZF auto main box is the same length wherever it's sourced from, and the t/box is identical between auto and manual. The only real 'spare space' is the ZF main gearbox to transfer box adaptor casting but that houses the adaptor shaft and realistically couldn't be that much shorter while still utilising a common t/box with the manual. There is a bit of spare space in the 4.0 RR T/C housing but that's only because the 4.6 carries a larger torque converter in the same casting. So the auto/transfer box assembly pretty much sets the minimum transmission length - the manual then has a huge bell housing to place the t/box flanges/trans cross member/exhaust runs etc etc in the same position as the autos. It is all about commonalityas you correctly assume.

The RR 4HP installation is massively bigger than it needs to be. Just compare the box complete with bellhousing to any other 4HP installation. And look at the spacers between drive plate and TC.

I looked at fitting one to my SD1 with the same engine, and the longer bellhousing fouls the bulkhead by a big margin. Sadly, the Sherpa uses the same arrangement.

richardh · Post by **richardh** » Tue Aug 16, 2011 11:37 am

did exactly that a few years ago and fitted an auto box instead with it.
Needed some tunnel modification with some ali plate but not too hard at all.
went the whole hog with body lift kit, suspension lift, new braking, refurbished SU's etc

v8alligator · Post by **v8alligator** » Sat Dec 31, 2011 5:07 pm

Hi All,

Just thought you may be interested in my V8 instillation.

http://s1214.photobucket.com/albums/cc4 ... gator/WPB/

It was a lot more involved then first planned but it was well worth it.

I used a millner adator ring and coupled the V8 to a late Series 3 gearbox. I had to make a adaptor for the crank and turn a new spigot bushe to suit the series 3's 1st motion shaft. The bulkhead was a series 2A 6 cylinder one with the footwells made 2" narrower to allow clearance for the manifolds. The firewall, tunnel and a floor plates are all bespoke.

The advantage of keeping with a series gearbox means the rear prop is standard. You can also get away with using a 88" front prop but due to the FFR suspension fitted, I had to use a 109" 6 cyclinder front propshaft which I shortened by 50mm.

I have fitted 3:54 range rover diffs to the axles but other then that they are standard.

The other points which need consideration is the position of the fan and what radiator to use. The engine which I used had a shorter front cover as it was from a LDV van. Thuis ment I could use a standards series 3 radiator. I did find a 6 cylinder one offers the most amount of cooling and is much slimmer then a standard 2 1/4 petrol one. There is no space for a fan in the engine bay unless you convert the front end to a defender type. I wanted to keep the original 2A look so mounted a kenlow on the other side of the rad.

All in all it has been a good project and should run along nicley once MOT'd

Bryan.