the ace is a good place to look....but word of warning, if you modfiy the trans tunnel in your mgb, hence requiring an IVA, It wont pass.
there are radius on the car that will fail, dash board will fail, door handles will fail, windscreen wipers will fail, brake pipes will fail, wiring loom will fail
infact to get any pre 2011 car through a BIVA is going to cost you a LOT of money.
IVA/SVA
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stevieturbo
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Magnetteman
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beelzebubs wrote:the ace is a good place to look....but word of warning, if you modfiy the trans tunnel in your mgb, hence requiring an IVA, It wont pass.
there are radius on the car that will fail, dash board will fail, door handles will fail, windscreen wipers will fail, brake pipes will fail, wiring loom will fail
infact to get any pre 2011 car through a BIVA is going to cost you a LOT of money.
Getting any pre 2011 car through a BIVA will NOT necessarily cost a lot on money. There are a lot of hot rods and beach buggies out there that have gone through with very few changes needed.
Brake pipes won't fail unless they're not clipped properly and the same for the wiring loom...you certainly won't need to replace them. The dashboard is padded so won't fail, windscreen wipers won't fail as they are standard issue that's still available.
You will have to have a low brake fluid warning light (do B's have these?)
I would check with ACE first before panicking as they have all of the rules and regs...I'm sure you'll be fine, just the thick end of £500 poorer for the test!
Ask the people who know best before acting because, as I mentioned previously, there has been a lot of misinformation in the motoring press that has been taken as gospel.
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richardpope50
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Partly as an aside , woke up at 05:45 for day trip to Mitcham IVA Test Centre yesterday (Friday).
Greeted by test guy asking if tank was full but when I asked how full was required (in case of having to be full to top of filler to check for leaks) he simply said if it’s not full, go away now and walked off! Thought that a great start to the day so put a bit more fuel in so near enough only to find out he never checked it. Plus it was just for weight calculation at end of session …but I’d used a fair amount during the test anyway.
Last Christmas saw me start my old 1978 twin SU 3.5 RV8 in earnest and a noise was coming from around No. 1 cyl. Got worse over weeks and I’m sure it’s a blown head gasket but water stays up and no milk in oil so took a chance! Makes quite a noise too.
First check was if the chassis number was stamped on right hand side of car – got a tip-off so a quick, albeit rough, engraving last weekend sorted that fail. It MUST be for IVA.
Checked earth strap on tank and said my cable could be thicker but when I said it’s a 10amp rating he just said ‘oh, OK’. (no spec in manual)
Seat height well within even if my measurement was doubtful – nice to know.
Then started engine and tester immediately said it would not pass emissions, noise or ‘mechanically fit’ tests. He then checked his manual and could not find latter check but insisted it would fail the other two. Great! An unplanned engine strip down?
Sharp edges test next. Inside he congratulated me on padding – I’d put in a blanking panel to stop him feeling up behind dash. Worthwhile exercise IMHO.
Now the fails! Front wishbone bush brackets failed 2.5mm tests top and bottom on both sides. Then I had not rounded off my headlamp brackets edges front AND read of lamp. Then mirror fixings that I had used nut caps on and masticed in place to hold them in place pulled off when he tried quite hard. Plus the IVA OK mirrors failed on the chrome nuts either end of stalk.
Emissions next - passed with flying colours at 3.2% CO2 so well within 4.6%. Good old SUs!
Coffee break so went to DIY store around corner to get file and anything we could think of to fix!
Last weekend I’d read manual again and noticed that the handbrake must not reach full lever position – mine did! So panic to remove seats, tunnel and design & weld up a new mechanism. Turned out that plan C was simpler than other two and worked perfectly. 26.7% test pass and 50% above required minimum – well chuffed.
My stomach churned when he asked me to remove hubcaps and a wheel nut to check nut seat. I knew my wheel studs were too short so an instant fail? But tester must have missed them on each wheel too. I’m replacing them in phase 2.
Next brakes and all OK. Wow! I have ABS and when he saw it he said that’s a first in all his many years. But my system sailed through all tests and as it was ABS, it had to go through a forward / rear bias test taking 20+ readings and plotting on a spreadsheet. As tester was very tall he could not fit in car so I had a pressure pad fitted to my shoe and had to press a range of pressure configurations. Then had to do this again as he said he had not written down all readings! Took ages.
Net results that brakes were fine including the later speed test (of sorts in max 100 yds) and emergency stop. I have to say I am amazed how good the ABS system is. It really has a progressive feel just like my Audi.
Noise test next when tester insisted it would fail but great pass at 96db.
Weight check and discovered 810kg incl dvr and almost full tank. That’s a 54:46 F/R split – impressed. Tester was surprised too.
So all finished at 13:30 and a fail. As bolts and radius fails were found it was a £90 re-test fee. Guy said he would re-test it if we could get back by 15:00 - you cannot fix things on site. So off to local Halfords with trailer in tow in heavy traffic to buy nuts and lock washers and a frantic half hour sorted all points. I’d brought spare nut covers (and loads od other stuff) so judicial cutting and fiddling I managed to sort mirror edges.
Back at 15:15 and guy looked at car still on trailer. Happy with all except we had missed headlamp bracket radius and now plastic nut covers had sharp edges! Quick filing again and all OK so a full pass issued.
Tester had also failed engine as I had used an elastic band (!) to keep throttle at idle as standard spring did not fully retract it. He said it was not as a manufacturer would do but in the end he forgot to check and we had forgot to remove it!
So despite initial thoughts, I found the tester really a good bloke. I could argue a few issues on wishbone radius edges but they were at fault. I’m just glad my chassis is being re-painted as I would hate to take a file to a nice powder coated chassis. Miffed I had not spotted bolt problems early on but that’s my fault.
So on to phase two where my Griffiths engine may just solve the blown head gasket problem automatically. Plus a full strip down to paint chassis and a few things could drop off in the process.
Greeted by test guy asking if tank was full but when I asked how full was required (in case of having to be full to top of filler to check for leaks) he simply said if it’s not full, go away now and walked off! Thought that a great start to the day so put a bit more fuel in so near enough only to find out he never checked it. Plus it was just for weight calculation at end of session …but I’d used a fair amount during the test anyway.
Last Christmas saw me start my old 1978 twin SU 3.5 RV8 in earnest and a noise was coming from around No. 1 cyl. Got worse over weeks and I’m sure it’s a blown head gasket but water stays up and no milk in oil so took a chance! Makes quite a noise too.
First check was if the chassis number was stamped on right hand side of car – got a tip-off so a quick, albeit rough, engraving last weekend sorted that fail. It MUST be for IVA.
Checked earth strap on tank and said my cable could be thicker but when I said it’s a 10amp rating he just said ‘oh, OK’. (no spec in manual)
Seat height well within even if my measurement was doubtful – nice to know.
Then started engine and tester immediately said it would not pass emissions, noise or ‘mechanically fit’ tests. He then checked his manual and could not find latter check but insisted it would fail the other two. Great! An unplanned engine strip down?
Sharp edges test next. Inside he congratulated me on padding – I’d put in a blanking panel to stop him feeling up behind dash. Worthwhile exercise IMHO.
Now the fails! Front wishbone bush brackets failed 2.5mm tests top and bottom on both sides. Then I had not rounded off my headlamp brackets edges front AND read of lamp. Then mirror fixings that I had used nut caps on and masticed in place to hold them in place pulled off when he tried quite hard. Plus the IVA OK mirrors failed on the chrome nuts either end of stalk.
Emissions next - passed with flying colours at 3.2% CO2 so well within 4.6%. Good old SUs!
Coffee break so went to DIY store around corner to get file and anything we could think of to fix!
Last weekend I’d read manual again and noticed that the handbrake must not reach full lever position – mine did! So panic to remove seats, tunnel and design & weld up a new mechanism. Turned out that plan C was simpler than other two and worked perfectly. 26.7% test pass and 50% above required minimum – well chuffed.
My stomach churned when he asked me to remove hubcaps and a wheel nut to check nut seat. I knew my wheel studs were too short so an instant fail? But tester must have missed them on each wheel too. I’m replacing them in phase 2.
Next brakes and all OK. Wow! I have ABS and when he saw it he said that’s a first in all his many years. But my system sailed through all tests and as it was ABS, it had to go through a forward / rear bias test taking 20+ readings and plotting on a spreadsheet. As tester was very tall he could not fit in car so I had a pressure pad fitted to my shoe and had to press a range of pressure configurations. Then had to do this again as he said he had not written down all readings! Took ages.
Net results that brakes were fine including the later speed test (of sorts in max 100 yds) and emergency stop. I have to say I am amazed how good the ABS system is. It really has a progressive feel just like my Audi.
Noise test next when tester insisted it would fail but great pass at 96db.
Weight check and discovered 810kg incl dvr and almost full tank. That’s a 54:46 F/R split – impressed. Tester was surprised too.
So all finished at 13:30 and a fail. As bolts and radius fails were found it was a £90 re-test fee. Guy said he would re-test it if we could get back by 15:00 - you cannot fix things on site. So off to local Halfords with trailer in tow in heavy traffic to buy nuts and lock washers and a frantic half hour sorted all points. I’d brought spare nut covers (and loads od other stuff) so judicial cutting and fiddling I managed to sort mirror edges.
Back at 15:15 and guy looked at car still on trailer. Happy with all except we had missed headlamp bracket radius and now plastic nut covers had sharp edges! Quick filing again and all OK so a full pass issued.
Tester had also failed engine as I had used an elastic band (!) to keep throttle at idle as standard spring did not fully retract it. He said it was not as a manufacturer would do but in the end he forgot to check and we had forgot to remove it!
So despite initial thoughts, I found the tester really a good bloke. I could argue a few issues on wishbone radius edges but they were at fault. I’m just glad my chassis is being re-painted as I would hate to take a file to a nice powder coated chassis. Miffed I had not spotted bolt problems early on but that’s my fault.
So on to phase two where my Griffiths engine may just solve the blown head gasket problem automatically. Plus a full strip down to paint chassis and a few things could drop off in the process.
Richard.
Dax Rush 5.0l TVR V8, EFI with Megasquirt ECU and wasted spark, Racelogic Traction Control and Quaife LSD ....... Now nut and bolt restoring a TR6
Dax Rush 5.0l TVR V8, EFI with Megasquirt ECU and wasted spark, Racelogic Traction Control and Quaife LSD ....... Now nut and bolt restoring a TR6
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stevieturbo
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Ian Anderson
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Sounds like the tester who did my SVA retest. They certainly pick on some bits and are lax on others.
Well done though in getting the test
Next fun bit is getting it reinspected by the DVLA when you try and get licence plates issued to it
Ian
Well done though in getting the test
Next fun bit is getting it reinspected by the DVLA when you try and get licence plates issued to it
Ian
Owner of an "On the Road" GT40 Replica by DAX powered by 3.9Hotwre Efi, worked over by DJ Motors. EFi Working but still does some kangaroo at low revs (Damn the speed limits) In to paint shop 18/03/08.
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richardpope50
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Ah. needed to explain that these were the 'U' shaped brackets where the wishbone bush assembly is bolted to. So it's the tops of the 'U' on a Dax Rush that fail as it just 3mm or so bent metal.stevieturbo wrote:And wishbone radius edges ?
Richard.
Dax Rush 5.0l TVR V8, EFI with Megasquirt ECU and wasted spark, Racelogic Traction Control and Quaife LSD ....... Now nut and bolt restoring a TR6
Dax Rush 5.0l TVR V8, EFI with Megasquirt ECU and wasted spark, Racelogic Traction Control and Quaife LSD ....... Now nut and bolt restoring a TR6
I have a feeling rosco on this board was thinking of doing a trakar - but i think he found it wouldn't pass iva.richardh wrote:would be handy as i'm just about to do something similar - Traka bodywork. Might leave the rear on and fabricate something suitable for the rear end
The guy who SVA'd his dakar is called Steve Dunford, he's actually setup a small business doing this stuff since then now:
http://www.southwayshomepage.moonfruit.com/
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Rossco
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Yes indeed.
More chance of a the UK electing a monkey as PM than a Traka getting through the IVA test
The problem you have is that if you choose to notify the DVLA (legal requirement to do so) then they will automatically request an IVA test.
The roll cage for one wont pass unless it is heavily wrapped in motosport grade padding (not pipe insulation).
As for the correct radii on panels then forget it
More chance of a the UK electing a monkey as PM than a Traka getting through the IVA test
The problem you have is that if you choose to notify the DVLA (legal requirement to do so) then they will automatically request an IVA test.
The roll cage for one wont pass unless it is heavily wrapped in motosport grade padding (not pipe insulation).
As for the correct radii on panels then forget it
A worrying trend.
I'm looking to replace the ZF 5-speed Tiptronic with a 6-speed manual 01E. This is in my 2001 Audi S8. All the components are what is fitted to manual S8's in Germany, and no cutting involved.
Does this mean I need an SVA / IVA, or is it factory enough not to require one? If it does need an SVA / IVA, will it be a fail?
I'm looking to replace the ZF 5-speed Tiptronic with a 6-speed manual 01E. This is in my 2001 Audi S8. All the components are what is fitted to manual S8's in Germany, and no cutting involved.
Does this mean I need an SVA / IVA, or is it factory enough not to require one? If it does need an SVA / IVA, will it be a fail?
2000 Audi B5 420-R, Pelican Blue:Work In Progress.
2000 Audi B5 420-R DTM, Santorin Blue: Work In Progress.
2000 Audi B5 420-R DTM, Santorin Blue: Work In Progress.
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stevieturbo
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A change like that will require no such tests.Nollywood wrote:A worrying trend.
I'm looking to replace the ZF 5-speed Tiptronic with a 6-speed manual 01E. This is in my 2001 Audi S8. All the components are what is fitted to manual S8's in Germany, and no cutting involved.
Does this mean I need an SVA / IVA, or is it factory enough not to require one? If it does need an SVA / IVA, will it be a fail?
What is an S8 like to own ? running/maintenance costs ? I really do like those cars !!
