The Relic

topcatcustom · Post by **topcatcustom** » Mon Mar 17, 2014 11:55 am

And lookie what just turned up!! This is a BIG pump!!

ChrisJC · Post by **ChrisJC** » Mon Mar 17, 2014 6:30 pm

Going back to your ignition question, you could use two EDIS8 + MegaJolt Lite setups, one for each side of the engine. If you put the two pickups e.g. 180degrees apart, and sorted out the HT wiring, it would be just fine. Same map in each one.

Dual redundancy!!

Chris.

topcatcustom · Post by **topcatcustom** » Wed Mar 19, 2014 12:35 pm

Managed to whip the head off, and fairly impressed! 26 head studs, hollow push rods, oil squirters on the front of every rocker, huge ports in the head and reasonably good looking water flow routes.

The downside is that the pistons sit 20mm down each bore at TDC, and the bores open out as well so domed pistons may be the only way to get compression up! Looking forward to giving teh engine a damned good clean.

And I'd really appreciate some help with this one- how to get the camshaft drive sprocket off the crank. Really hard to get a good picture, hard to see it anyway, there is an internal thread in the sprocket, and a not quite complete ring inside that holds it to the crank. I have tried tapping the ring round and it won't move, I think there could be a small wedge in the gap or something, if there is I don't know ho to get it out without drilling, any ideas?? I really need to get it off so I can get the crank treated and ground.

crayefish · Post by **crayefish** » Thu Mar 20, 2014 12:41 pm

Looks like the ports could do with a bit of flow work!

20mm down the bore? Wow that's a lot. Wonder how much you could skim off the block before you hit cooling jackets. Longer conrods perhaps? How is the piston to valve clearance currently?

topcatcustom · Post by **topcatcustom** » Thu Mar 20, 2014 12:51 pm

Hard to get a good photo, but the ports are actually like caves inside, I don't think they will need any work at all other than a smooth with a stone! Can't move the pistons higher or grind the block down, as the spark plugs come through the sides!! I'll be looking for hemi type pistons, or diesel ones with a thick top.

crayefish · Post by **crayefish** » Thu Mar 20, 2014 2:02 pm

Ahhh... hence the piston cutout. Strange system!

It just looks from the photos that the short side radius is pretty sharp.

unstable load · Post by **unstable load** » Fri Mar 21, 2014 6:59 am

Why not fill that gap between piston top and head with boost?
Calculate the CR without boost and you should know what you want with boost and make up the difference under pressure.

Darkspeed · Post by **Darkspeed** » Fri Mar 21, 2014 8:23 am

I will admit that it took some head scratching on my part and close scrutiny of the pictures to work out what was going on with the ignition. 2 plugs per cylinder with a port through the block for the ignition wires!

I wonder if it actually needs both sparks to ignite todays fuel?

Keeping it old school or going for hi tech with programmable sparks with the option to provide a stage firing in the same cylinder.

Looks a great project

- envious - but not of the work ahead.

topcatcustom · Post by **topcatcustom** » Fri Mar 21, 2014 1:53 pm

The fact it is going to be supercharged will be a huge help with the low CR, and one of the plugs is hidden in a little chamber in the head, so it could work well as a pre-spark, but realistically probably not going to happen yet! I think I will just run with the spark plugs in the cylinder wall for now, the other won't provide a huge benefit. Can wire them in later!

kiwicar · Post by **kiwicar** » Fri Mar 21, 2014 8:35 pm

Hi Tom
if you get 4 fiesta/focus/mondao 4 post coil packs and wire 2 of the internal coils in parallel and use the internal megasquirt coil drivers you should be able to drive all 16 plugs in wasted spark mode, the packs are about 15 quid each. For pistons what you need would probably be 8 laverda mirage 11.5:1 raised crown forged pistons, 84mm forged with a raised crown. . . that won't be cheep and you ain't having my three!

as I suggested before I would look at 2.8 or 3.4 jag pistons, I can see a visit to the scrap yard coming up, I have seen some with very raised crowns.
best regards

Darkspeed · Post by **Darkspeed** » Sat Mar 22, 2014 8:58 am

If looking for Hemi pistons about that size - Alfa Romeo 1750 and 2000 pistons from the 105 series cars 80mm and 84mm bore respectively.

Look like this for the 84mm

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Alfa-Romeo-Al ... 3ccdd9c959

S/H blocks with pistons are peanuts when they come up

And they did some nice straight eights of their own a while back Hows your alloy welding skills?

Or you could have a look this chaps project and produce a straight twelve !! in a London Taxi Chassis.

http://www.flowbenchtech.com/forum/view ... 8&start=30

Andrew

topcatcustom · Post by **topcatcustom** » Sat Mar 22, 2014 6:19 pm

I've seen those pistons, and look ideal but may be too big, I haven't measured the bore accurately yet, I think the standard pistons are 82mm. Think I'll be taking the block somewhere and getting it tested to see how munch meat is around the liners! If diesel pistons didn't usually have the inverted cone shape cast into the tops they would be a good starting point, as they have such a thick top.

topcatcustom · Post by **topcatcustom** » Wed Mar 26, 2014 3:08 pm

Measured the bore at 82.7mm today, making it 3 1/4". Also I calculated the entire area above the piston at TDC at 136cc including 1mm of head gasket. Of course this isn't much help right now as I haven't measured the stroke properly! Either way it's not going to be easy getting the CR up, those Alfa Romeo hemi pistons at 84mm could be a good start though, I'm planning on stripping the last few bits from the engine and getting the thickness of the bores/liners measured.

Has anyone seen anything like the cam sprocket ring or have any idea about how to undo it? I can't fit the cam chain unless it comes off!

unstable load · Post by **unstable load** » Thu Mar 27, 2014 6:26 am

topcatcustom wrote:Has anyone seen anything like the cam sprocket ring or have any idea about how to undo it? I can't fit the cam chain unless it comes off!

It looks almost as if the pulley screws onto the cam and is then pinned to index the timing marks correctly. Can you get the cam out with it still fitted, because then you may be able to knock it out from the other side?

Is there no literature to support this engine? I'm sure Pistonheads or one of those sites would have someone with a manual they could scan for you to see what's going on there?

http://www.nashcarclub.org/index.html

chodjinn · Post by **chodjinn** » Thu Mar 27, 2014 7:18 am

Can't you just skim/deck the block to raise the CR?