My Supercharged V8 Capri Conversion

Post by **Coops** » Sat Oct 19, 2013 9:22 pm

Yes mate not as quick as with bonnet shut

stevieturbo · Post by **stevieturbo** » Sat Oct 19, 2013 9:30 pm

Coops wrote:Yes mate not as quick as with bonnet shut

2 things then. You need to improve cold airflow through the radiator, and also ensure there is no way hot air inside the engine compartment, can make it's way back in front of the radiator.

Failing that, a larger water radiator/fan/fans, combined with the above

Could make a slightly narrower but taller rad then. It could fit between the IC pipework, do top/bottom vertical flow.
One pipe out the bottom, and another in the top/middle directly from the intake/stat

That's more expense though.

Try and improve cold airflow first of all.

Post by **Coops** » Sat Oct 19, 2013 10:32 pm

We have some more powerful fans to try but the wiring will need upgrading to handle the higher current demand
If this fails the car is off to serch motorsport to see Graham Smith and have a custom rad and intercooler made

Post by **Rossco** » Sun Oct 20, 2013 7:18 am

Tony

I dont think you need custom rad and cooler.

Looking at this picture....

....you have a large gap between the top of the rad and the top of the intercooler. At low speed or when stopped that's going to cause hot air to be drawn back through the intercooler and then through the rad. A taller narrower rad should solve that as long as you ensure that it's properly shrouded.

What width do you have between the intercooler pipes, and what's your max height?

Remember as well with your intake directly above the exhaust your intake temps will go sky high when stopped.

Post by **Coops** » Sun Oct 20, 2013 10:52 am

Intake temps dont go sky high funny enough
Will have a measure later
The rad and cooler are a pair from a cossie

Post by **Coops** » Sun Oct 20, 2013 10:55 am

Spose i could block top half of cooler off and see if that helps at idle with the hot air not being sucked back through

stevieturbo · Post by **stevieturbo** » Sun Oct 20, 2013 10:59 am

Just stick something to block the top of the water rad to the IC core. So no hot air can get re-circulated.

Although, if it is a struggle at the minute, during the summer it may still need attention.
it is a lot cooler now after all, and you need to be prepared for traffic.

And yes the air filter isnt ideal, but not a lot can be done about that just now.
Mine has sat above my hot exhaust for years, and never really been a major issue.
Certainly zero issue for normal road use.

Post by **Coops** » Tue Oct 22, 2013 5:52 pm

been doing a lot of research regarding my current SPAL fans,
and contacted Raceparts regarding the revotec fans they supply, here is the results:
Both fans identical down to mountings, etc but have different stickers on,
spal has curved blades revotec straight blades,

Spal fans rated @ Airflow 1320 m3/hour
new fans rated @ Airflow 1790 m3/hour

fingers crossed a pair of these revote ones tame the overheating lol.

Blown v8 · Post by **Blown v8** » Tue Oct 22, 2013 7:30 pm

When I bought my fans,I did a lot of research on the flows.Mine runs really cool,I know I haven't got an inter cooler in the way,but with the original chassis I had to put the fans in front,when I had the new tube chassis built,I had the engine pushed further back,I have room to put the fans behind the rad,but no money to do it !
High flow fans use a lot of amps to run,one of the reasons I use a 120 amp alternator
Good luck[/img]
P.s Serck built my rad,top guys

mgbv8 · Post by **mgbv8** » Tue Oct 22, 2013 7:50 pm

I'm liking the 120amp alternator. What is it??

Post by **Coops** » Tue Oct 22, 2013 10:28 pm

Yeah Graham Smith @ Serck Motorsport (snow white chevy) said he can help me out if new rad/intercooler needed

stevieturbo · Post by **stevieturbo** » Tue Oct 22, 2013 10:30 pm

That's a lot of radiator !!!

As for alternator. Unless you have an electrical system pulling a lot of load, isnt really a huge need for a big alternator.

And with a carb'd setup...really, electrical draw will be very small

On mine, normal driving sees about 45A. 22A of that is fuel pump, mostly the rest engine controls, coils etc.

My fans bump another 20A onto that, then lights etc etc.

Surprising though, all the little things do add up, although usually they are only intermittent so not a big deal.

Worst case would be sitting at night, full beam on and elec fans on

mgbv8 · Post by **mgbv8** » Wed Oct 23, 2013 8:09 pm

I need to run 2 fuel pumps, 2 cooling fans, 250 watt bottle heater, and about 30 amps of nitrous equipment + full lights when night racing. My 80amp alternator does ok but when all the kit is on I can hear the fuel pumps slow down when I touch the brakes.

I'm just wondering how much power the alternator saps when under full load?

Post by **katanaman** » Wed Oct 23, 2013 8:19 pm

Assuming your on the edge of your 80A alternator your using near as damp it 1.5hp at 14v charge rate.

I will go and put my geek hat away now

stevieturbo · Post by **stevieturbo** » Wed Oct 23, 2013 9:39 pm

I'd have thought more power than that actually.

Ideally you'd want to log voltage when racing, then you'd see exactly what is happening.

And as for pumps and any other high current item, although on a low pressure carb setup, I doubt pump current would change very much during use, at least not as much as a boosted efi setup. Pressure affects current draw more than anything.

Although anything that is critical and does draw a lot of current, should of course be wired direct to the alternator via suitable cables and fusing.
It's the alternator that supplies power when the engine is running. The battery is largely there just for starting and as a damper.

If you could fit an alternator of a modern car, modern diesel...or big engined modern diesel, they are all generally units with a high output.
Or certainly there are places in the US that sell various high output units.