nitrous diy

General Chat About Nitrous Oxide.

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UncleThunderpants
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nitrous diy

Post by UncleThunderpants » Wed Dec 30, 2009 7:53 pm

I've been toying with the idea of n20 for some time, but basically can't afford the kit! ( about £500 won, to fit rv8 3.5, holley 390) i have read this site www.nitrous.info/ and it seems quite probable that it wouldn't be too hard to build your own system, have any of you guys tried this? and with what results?


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kiwicar
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Post by kiwicar » Wed Dec 30, 2009 8:23 pm

I know someone who did a set up for a drag bike off the info on this site, he had alot of fun with the bike and the N20 certainly worked :shock: . Not done it myself, but it is certainly possable to do.
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Post by mgbv8 » Thu Dec 31, 2009 9:55 am

It depends how much you want to use. If you are only looking for a small fixed hit you can make up pretty much anything.
I made my first couple of kits up from odd and ends of secondhand NOS gear. You can pick up new generic kits like this.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/BRAND-NEW-FULL-WE ... 33589a4963


Or secondhand stuff like this.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ZEX-82021-Nitrous ... 35a5fd4e47

You are better off getting as full a kit as possible secondhand as its all the small items that bump the cost up, like fittings, nuts and olives etc.

Do you have enough room to raise your carb by 13-25mm ??

Perry

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Post by mgbv8 » Thu Dec 31, 2009 9:12 pm

Sorry!
Didnt have much time to type in the last post as I was on my way out the door.

SAFETY FIRST!!
1. Fit a pressure switch in the fuel line to operate a 40amp relay that will cut the whole nitrous system off electrically if the pressure drops to 3psi. A £34 item that will save a whole engine!!! And use a switch from the Wizards. These are adjustable and reliable.
I've had 3 of the Real Steel switches go wrong. One went open circuit, but the other 2 stuck shut. Its only because I test my safety items like this at the start of each race that I found the faults.
I arm my system with the petrol turned off. So it should not light up until I get 5+ psi. But if the system arms without the petrol on I know I have a fault.
See here for fuel pressure switch:
http://www.noswizard.com/product_list.php?id=5

2. Fit a nitrous pressure gauge to the system. You need to make sure you have a minimum pressure in the gas system before you race. Otherwise its either going to run rich due to low bottle pressure in cold weather, or it could lean out due to high pressue in hot weather and damage the engine. The nitrous pressure will vary for different systems so you need to know what pressure you have to get the best from that system. Once you get more used to the system, you can adjust nitrous pressures to alter delivery / output / mixtures.

3. Fit a purge solenoid in a tee piece just before the nitrous solenoid. This will avoid nitrous lag and give you more fun instantly. This is not a safety item. But it does reduce the rich hit of petrol while the nitrous liquid gets to the solenoid from the bottle.
This also doubles as an item that you can use to drop the bottle pressure to the correct level for your system if its got a bit cooked in hot weather.

4. Fit a bottle heater. Either manual or controlled automatically via a pressure switch. Pressure switch controlled is the safest option as you could easily forget to turn the heater off and blow the safety valve / bursting disk. I control mine with a pressure switch, but I do have a manual over ride to by pass the switch for my own reasons. I have a stonking great big red warning lamp that shines in my face when the manual over ride is turned on.

Absolutely no point in using the system if the bottle pressure is too low in cool weather.

You also need to decide just how you are going to spray the nitrous into the manifold. I've used 4 differnt NOS spray bar plates over the years. And to be honest, the distribution between cylinders is not great for our little Rover V8's.
I had a plate custom made with 4 wizards crossfire nozzles to bolt under my weber 500. With the NOS plates, you choose a plate that will deliver X horsepower. I ended up stacking 3 plates at one time to give me the delivery I needed in 3 stages.
The custom plate will deliver from 25hp to 600hp by just swapping jets.

I will be happy to give you any help I can on nitrous for the RV8. You can either keep it on here or PM me.

I can also give you the benefit of my last 6 years experience with blowing up RV8's on nitrous. And how I got round those problems to run a lot more nitrous on my RV8 than anyone ever thought was possible on a stock engine.
Stock low comp 3500 8:1 cr running a 150 shot at 12 seconds on the strip with all stock internal??? It can be done.

Stock 4.6 running 250 of gas at 10 seconds. It can be done.

In 2010 I hope to be taking my stock 4.6 to a flat 10 or the 9's using a 300hp shot of gas.

Ignore the folk who say "nitrous will blow your engine". They have either installed and used it wrong, or never used it at all and are talking out of their bumholes...:)

Regards
Perry

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Post by UncleThunderpants » Wed Jan 13, 2010 9:46 pm

Thanks for that, thats definatly food for though and very kind of you to offer advice. I will definatly try to install no2 on both my cars, and will try to build my own pretty much from scratch, as far as i can see the only real expense seems to be the solenoids or won pulsoids, the rest ( bottle valves, braided hose etc) looks like it could be fairly easily sourced, will let you know of my progress or lack off! thanks :wink:
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dbv8
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Post by dbv8 » Thu Jan 14, 2010 4:05 pm

I agree with all Perry says.
You may also need to retard the ignition to allow for the faster burn on the nitrous, especially at higher levels and if your engine advance is already optimised.

For a starting point for a new system i think its best if you decide just how much of a nitrous hit you are wanting and design your system from there.
If you 'only' need 100 bhp for example then forget the braided hose and use Trevors nylon lines. Have a look on the wiards website for all the reasons why and to answer any questions you have.
Otherwise im sure Perry can help you.
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Post by bigaldart » Thu Jan 14, 2010 4:49 pm

Alternatively fit a blower and appropriate fuel system, then forget about it and have fun :D :D :D :D :D :D :D

Alan

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Post by mgbv8 » Thu Jan 14, 2010 10:47 pm

The nitrous effect will depend on the base engine build for small hits up to 100hp of gas Uncle!!

What sort of tune do you have in the engine at present?

What heads, cam and exhaust manifolds are you using??

perry

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