Rover V-8 on LPG: NGK sparkplug released, good for 100,000km

[TokyoP6B]

BPR6EIX-LPG is the part number, fits all Rover V-8s from SD1 onwards, but doesn't fit P5B or P6B Rovers ( early ones ) as these use a different reach plug

NGK claim 100,000kms use for this ( iridium plated ) plug, originally developed for Morgans being imported into the USA; fitted with dedicated LPG means these didn't need Federal exhaust emissions testing

Road and Track article: http://www.morgancars-usa.com/randttwo.html

If your Rover V-8 is Dual-Fuel or dedicated LPG, this is the plug to use, but note that the "R" in "BPR" means a resistor-type sparkplug ( don't use resistor-type plug leads or you'll weaken the spark )

Available online in the UK here:

http://www.sparkplugs.co.uk/pages/prici ... offset=200

GW

[davehoos]

If your Rover V-8 is Dual-Fuel or dedicated LPG, this is the plug to use, but note that the "R" in "BPR" means a resistor-type sparkplug ( don't use resistor-type plug leads or you'll weaken the spark )

not the case-you need a good/bigger coil.
resister type require higher voltage from coil to begin the spark [ironise across the gap]then the spark is at a higher voltage[hotter].

common problem that stainless or copper leads that are fitted by convertors to get that new coil power to the plugs as its harder to burn the atomised gas .by making it easy for the coil to discharges across the plug at lower voltages over a shorter time.

my AU falcon comes factory with silcone type leads[coil pack],these last the length of time that the plugs are clean.factory they come with iridium or better.at $13-$25+ each.the dealer fix for cold missfire is to fit a $2 plug and $45 lead set.

My preforance is for V groove plug.hot water thermostat[88-92c] and cold plugs.im running BPR6EY but unlees i towing[3 ton trailer]it needs a BPR5EY.
BCPR6EY is the same except the 5/8 plug socket.

i like the smaller socket-its often harder to get these plugs,easy to snap of the plug,and often hard to find the small socket when you need it.

[sidecar]

Years ago I read in a bike mag about a gizzmo that you could make and fit in the HT lead. Basically it was a bit of plastic tube with a screw at each end so that there was a gap of around 1/2 an inch between the screw heads. The idea was that the large gap allowed the voltage to build up to a higher level than if the coil was connected directly to the spark plug. Once the voltage was high enough to jump the big gap a very high voltage would be applied to the spark plug.

Of course it could be a load of old crap....

Personally I think there is a load of old hype over spark plugs, fancy words and fancy metals such as 'unobtainium' are used as a sales gimmick. People then spend a shed load of money on a set of plugs and convince themselves that they have released 20 BHP because they don't want to admit that they have actually made sod all difference! All just my humble!

[Quagmire]

I use nomal resistive NGK BPR6ES gapped to the upper limit (of LR book) in my Rover lump on LPG- I am using Megajolt though so i get massive sparks anyway.

Before that I had bog standard Champions.

I would agree that the v-groove plugs seem good- I used them with LPG on my old four cylinder engine and it did seem to run smoother.

However, as sidecar says there is a lot of old rubbish spoken about plugs. I think its mainly down to the same scenario as when people are talking about replacing cams.

If you replace an old tired part with a nice new one you are going to see an improvement.

[davehoos]

Years ago I read in a bike mag about a gizzmo that you could make and fit in the HT lead. Basically it was a bit of plastic tube with a screw at each end so that there was a gap of around 1/2 an inch between the screw heads. The idea was that the large gap allowed the voltage to build up to a higher level than if the coil was connected directly to the spark plug. Once the voltage was high enough to jump the big gap a very high voltage would be applied to the spark plug.

Of course it could be a load of old crap....
humble!

these items have been around forever for use with old 12V systems and copper leads for starting and extream mixture issues,and they work.
adjustable version sold as diagnostic tool was even recomended by factory engineers for testing modern coil pack outputs without the need for expencive eqipment.
http://mr2.com/TEXT/DavidKucharczyk/ignition.html

when starting a tired engine that is flooded,common practice is to pull of the lead holding up to an inch off the plug to burn off the crud and wet fuel mix.