Speccing a single turbo for a 4.6 RV8

[pupp]

Anyone care to tell me the options for this please? I'm guessing a sandwich plate on the filter housing could be used but see a couple of bungs up an the housing side too. Anything possible with them that might be neater?

[stevieturbo]

Anyone care to tell me the options for this please? I'm guessing a sandwich plate on the filter housing could be used but see a couple of bungs up an the housing side too. Anything possible with them that might be neater?

Options for what ?

[pupp]

Anyone care to tell me the options for this please? I'm guessing a sandwich plate on the filter housing could be used but see a couple of bungs up an the housing side too. Anything possible with them that might be neater?

Options for what ?

Sorry, oil take off for the turbo feed... thought the post heading would show a bit more prominently

[stevieturbo]

Most common method is just tee off the oil pressure switch/sender.

But if you're fitting a remote filter, then yes it could be drilled/tapped for a clean oil supply too.

[pupp]

Ok, so using the t-off method, I need a M20x1.5 male to 1/8npt female with an-4 male branch adaptor... er, I'm guessing that's a fairly unusual beast?

[stevieturbo]

Anything can be achieved one way or another. Even if it means just welding some bits together, or drilling and tapping.

Draw a picture of exactly what you need. What exactly is the M20x1.5 part for ?

That's an unusual thread for anything Rover.

Typically you'd use something like this. On the side you could adapt it to -4 if that's what you are using for the oil supply.

http://www.speedflowshop.co.uk/18npt-ad ... 1239-p.asp

So you'd need an M20x1.5 to 1/8 NPT ( ie get an M20 solid bung and drill/tap it )
Then a male to male 1/8 NPT to -4 fitting to screw into the side of the above adaptor.

[stevieturbo]

or an Earls M20x1.5 to -4 male/male adaptor and use one of these male/female adaptors with an 1/8 NPT port on the side

http://www.earls.co.uk/earls/fuelsystem/adapters.html

I dont see the M20/-4 one listed, but often they have a much larger range than is listed online.
Even if you did have to go to -6 on the M20, you could step it down to -4 easily.

[pupp]

The M20x1.5 is the receiving thread in the intermediate cover where the pressure sender sits (it has a 1/8NPT male thread but sits in a reducing adaptor - makes sense to me to lose that if poss) - so M20 male from engine to 1/8NPT female for sender, with AN-4 off to turbo...

[pupp]

Thanks for the Speedflow links - I'm trying to keep the number of joints to the minimum I can

[stevieturbo]

I think an M20 to -6 would be easiest ( only because I dont see a -4 listed, but phone them, they may well have )

9919DBL ( images are generic )



Then Earls 100199 -6 male to female with 1/8 fem on the side ( again, if they have -4 for the above, all the better, this piece can be -4 )



Then a -6F to -4M reducer

9892064




Speedflow, Torques and other brands will probably do these parts too, I've always used Earls for all my stuff.

[stevieturbo]

Torques

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/6-AN6-06-M20x ... 230feddfc6

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/6-AN6-Male-Fe ... 231cae4ba4

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/6-Female-4-Ma ... 230fead9ec

[pupp]

Thanks; suspect I'm making this more difficult than it need be. Demon Tweeks do a short 1/8NPT gauge adaptor with a 1/8NPT side tap... I guess an 1/8NPT end on a -4 line is easier to source. I'll just keep the OEM M2x1.5 reducer in place as it's sat there happily enough since 1997

[stevieturbo]

Didnt realise you already had teh M20 to 1/8 fitting

Yes, then the gauge adaptor would be the easiest option with a 1/8 to -4 male to male fitting

For the above fitting, I'd be inclined to go for steel. Taper threads on such a small aluminium fitting damage easier.

[pupp]

Some more thoughts on this; having looked at the pressure sender earlier, I'm a bit concerned that hanging that and a line to the turbo off a T-piece is asking for trouble. All looks a tad exposed and dependent on the comparatively weedy 1/8 thread being strong enough to support it and not fatigue etc.

Is there something else I might be able to do at the filter end? maybe using a cooler sandwich plate...not sure whether a feed from a plate outlet would be immediately after or before the filter in the circuit?