casting grade?

[greased-up-deaf-guy]

Im looking into getting some parts cast for my rv8. Does anyone know what grade/mix was used in casting the block? Looking at the early 3.5 block.

Thanks in advance
brad

[mgbv8]

What you looking to have cast Brad??
Sounds interesting

Perry

[softdash3.9]

Can you not melt down an scrap block?

Just a thought , someone will have one

[greased-up-deaf-guy]

Looking at doing a run off girdle plates with the mains caps built in. Wanted to keep the mix similar for expansion/ strength reasons. Can use old blocks for the bulk of the mix but then need to add pure ingredients to bring the quality up. Just hoping someone might know, otherwise its a guess or expensive lab tests

[mgbv8]

Looking at doing a run off girdle plates with the mains caps built in. Wanted to keep the mix similar for expansion/ strength reasons. Can use old blocks for the bulk of the mix but then need to add pure ingredients to bring the quality up. Just hoping someone might know, otherwise its a guess or expensive lab tests

Girdle plates??
You mean those plates that are supposed to hold the bottom of the block together?
I can see the idea of making a sort of metal sump gasket that adds strength to the perimiter of the base of the block. But isnt this for engines that are subjected to extreme stress for long periods of time like hill climb or circuit racing? They are not required for drag racing thats for sure. The X bolt block does that just fine for me. I think a simple steel plate will do the job just fine on a non X bolt block. You may be trying to re invent the wheel mate. Unless you have a specific reason for this type of girdle plate of course. Whats the thinking behind your idea ??

Regards
Perry

[JSF55]

Not sure what the rover block is, but there's an idea of some ingredients here ....
http://www.dyson-diecasting.co.uk/AlloyCharts.php?id=1

[greased-up-deaf-guy]

My only reasoning is i have a early 3.5 block and wanted a high reving engine that would stand up to track usage. Also thought it would be a nice little project to cast and machine up. Came aross a version in a book and liked the engineering involved.

Regards
brad

[unstable load]

why not make it able to include a dry sump set up then stick it on flleabay to recoup some of your costs.

[mgbv8]

My only reasoning is i have a early 3.5 block and wanted a high reving engine that would stand up to track usage. Also thought it would be a nice little project to cast and machine up. Came aross a version in a book and liked the engineering involved.

Regards
brad

Cool!
Sounds like one of those jobs that gets stuck in your head and keeps niggling until you have a go eh? Should be an interesting project. And as said you might be able to get some outlat back by selling extra's on ebay.

[Wotland]

why not make it able to include a dry sump set up then stick it on flleabay to recoup some of your costs.

Something like that

[goodsy1968]

LM25 iirc!

[kiwicar]

Ooooh I like that!
not enough to make me go rover but nice!
How early is the 3.5 block? just you may also need to reinforce the valley area aswell, P6 blocks are notorious for failing in the valley area and falling in half. The later SD1s are much better, and the last of the 3.5 range rover blocks are better still. I have seen articles featuring kits to strap both banks of Buick 215 and Oldmobile 215 blocks together in car craft and I have seen somthing similar done on a P76 block using a milled plate on the end of each bank but better to just go with a 3.5 with the later webbing.
Best regards
Mike
PS are those centre caps steel dove tailed into an ally casting? because if they are that is some serious engineering!

[greased-up-deaf-guy]

Thanks goodsy, its a starting point anyways.

My first thoughts were to make a sump included but thought it may be a pain if i wanted to remove the sump for whatever reason, would mean unbolting the mains everytime. Sump will be another project in itself, if this goes ahead then they will make their way onto evilbay

Planning on making some bolt in or weld on valley braces to strenghen the upper end up a bit. Mine is a 79 3.5 i belive so has non of the later benefits, ive been told to just buy the later version but that wouldnt be as fun. I do like to make more work for myself.... Not sure why haha.

Brad

[greased-up-deaf-guy]

Thanks goodsy, its a starting point anyways.

My first thoughts were to make a sump included but thought it may be a pain if i wanted to remove the sump for whatever reason, would mean unbolting the mains everytime. Sump will be another project in itself, if this goes ahead then they will make their way onto evilbay

Planning on making some bolt in or weld on valley braces to strenghen the upper end up a bit. Mine is a 79 3.5 i belive so has non of the later benefits, ive been told to just buy the later version but that wouldnt be as fun. I do like to make more work for myself.... Not sure why haha.

Brad

[davemgb]

Thanks goodsy, its a starting point anyways.

My first thoughts were to make a sump included but thought it may be a pain if i wanted to remove the sump for whatever reason, would mean unbolting the mains everytime. Sump will be another project in itself, if this goes ahead then they will make their way onto evilbay

Planning on making some bolt in or weld on valley braces to strenghen the upper end up a bit. Mine is a 79 3.5 i belive so has non of the later benefits, ive been told to just buy the later version but that wouldnt be as fun. I do like to make more work for myself.... Not sure why haha.

Brad

You'll need to be good at welding the main bearing area of the block back together, it's well know for the bosses housing the main bolt threads to break away in the earlier thin web blocks. An 85 onwards block would be a better starting point unless your idea of fun is far more twisted than mine.

Dave