Oil Warning light on !

[stevieturbo]

I would totally disagree. Where possible, always fill the filter.

so called unfiltered oil is a moot point. Most filters have an internal bypass, so you can be sure at times will be bypassing regardless.

So a little drop of new clean oil is of no concern.

After 3 minutes, you most definitely should have seen/felt signs of pressure building.

[GDCobra]

I would totally disagree. Where possible, always fill the filter.

so called unfiltered oil is a moot point. Most filters have an internal bypass, so you can be sure at times will be bypassing regardless.

So a little drop of new clean oil is of no concern.

After 3 minutes, you most definitely should have seen/felt signs of pressure building.

Well, just passing on, you pay's your money you takes your choice. I have done this before but since hearing that I just don't bother, like I say it's unlikely to be an issue but if you don't do it then it can't cause a problem and I don't think not doing so will cause one, I mean some cars have the filter mounted at an angle even upside down so you can't. Just saying, there are two sides to any story.

The internal bypass is a spring loaded affair which should only release if filter itself if blocked (which should only happen due to an issue), I guess there the argument is unfiltered oil is better than little or none. Lesser of two evils.

[stevieturbo]

you'd be surprised at the pressure drop across a filter at times. When cold, often it will be bypassing simply because of the thicker oil.

I've never understood upside down filter mounting. It's just so idiotic on every level. Even normal upright mounts always spill oil....but who on earth thought upside down would be great ! lol

[GDCobra]

I've never understood upside down filter mounting. It's just so idiotic on every level. Even normal upright mounts always spill oil....but who on earth thought upside down would be great ! lol

Yeah, even though you can get around the issue when mounting it you're always going to get spills when removing!
Must admit I've never actually had a fully upside down one but I've had several which mount at 90°, always messy.

[Biffdiff42]

I spent quite some time filling the oil pump with vaseline and removed the two impellers and filled their gaps as well, as part of the process. I fitted a new switch just as precaution and gasket (thank you Rimmers) and put blanks in to one of the unused senor holes and filled them with vaseline at the same time.

The drill only ran for about 20 secs before the torque increased and the Spanner Lad (luckily he does read this Forum) advised that the oil light had gone off. I ran the drill for a couple of minutes to make sure the the whole system has properly primed.

Then put the dizzy back in and the car fired well up and first time which was probably helped by carb rebuild last winter (Holley 4 barrel). So thanks for the patient advice as I am new-ish to this engine and working in my shed at home with limited facilities, so getting input from other is very helpful.

Now to try and fix the exhaust to manifold leak ..........

[ChrisJC]

Good news.

I had exactly the same thing happen to me, but I didn't realise there was no oil pressure, and it trashed the engine!!

Chris.

[GDCobra]

Yeah, that's how mine felt, a quick and obvious increase in drag as it started pulling the oil through.
Good news?

[Mc Tool]

just been thinkin about this . Seems that the packing with vaseline is the go to prime the pump . Is there any reason why one couldnt strategically fit a grease nipple to the pump cover to make priming easier .....specially if you have to do it often .

If you had a choice ( I do ) would you use the early dizzy drive oil pump or the later crank driven pump . ( I have a few motors in bits and only need one going, so spoilt for choice )

[scudderfish]

I thought Vaseline was used as it would dissolve nicely in the engine. I don't know what bog standard grease would do! Unless you are going to load a grease gun with Vaseline that is....

[ChrisJC]

The point about the later crank driven pumps is that the engine immediately spins up to 1500rpm before dropping back down to idle. I always wondered if this was to make sure the pump was primed... Certainly true for Thor (i.e. late P38 Range Rover) engines.

Chris.

[GDCobra]

just been thinkin about this . Seems that the packing with vaseline is the go to prime the pump . Is there any reason why one couldnt strategically fit a grease nipple to the pump cover to make priming easier .....specially if you have to do it often .

If you had a choice ( I do ) would you use the early dizzy drive oil pump or the later crank driven pump . ( I have a few motors in bits and only need one going, so spoilt for choice )

Only ever used the dizzy driven pump so can't speak for the later one. Always found it more consistent to use the vaseline method for priming, have always had to do it with newly built engine and also when oil had been dropped for some time (several weeks), tried spinning up with tool and never had any joy without filling the pump as well, could be due to using remote filter located above pump.
Crank driven pump may not need priming due to later/better design and presumabliy runs at crank RPM instead of half that via the dizzy.
I think the crank driven pump is probably better but that opinion may be based on it being what I don't have , grass being greener and all that.