If its got the right shape flange then as far as I know a sump from a Range Rover, SD1, p6 etc will fit a block with a p6 front cover/distributor/oil pump but what about the oil pump pipe & strainer?
Are they specific to the donor sump/oil pump or is there any interchangabilty?
I'm building up a 4.6 with p6 bits but my sump is really rusted and bashed about so I'm looking for a straighter replacement.
Rover V8 sumps
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Cheers guys
Strainers/pipes/supports are specific to the sumps -
Ok, I'll have to make sure I get all bits together from the same engine.
You'll probably have to bash the sump a bit to accommodate the extra throw of the 4.6 -
Yes, am going to cut sump-shaped holes in a couple of bits of old kitchen worktop and clamp the sump flange between them so - fingers crossed - I can hammer it down with out distorting it.
Strainers/pipes/supports are specific to the sumps -
Ok, I'll have to make sure I get all bits together from the same engine.
You'll probably have to bash the sump a bit to accommodate the extra throw of the 4.6 -
Yes, am going to cut sump-shaped holes in a couple of bits of old kitchen worktop and clamp the sump flange between them so - fingers crossed - I can hammer it down with out distorting it.
You will need a RR sump with a new RR pick up.
The 4.6 sump wont fit a P6 cover. Plus no 1 and 2 conrods will hit the sump. You need to make a bulge with a hammer.
I have a old pick up if it helps. Just cover the postage.
Mark
The 4.6 sump wont fit a P6 cover. Plus no 1 and 2 conrods will hit the sump. You need to make a bulge with a hammer.
I have a old pick up if it helps. Just cover the postage.
Mark
Last edited by Dixie6789 on Sun Mar 08, 2015 9:16 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Mark
Cheers for the offer Mark, I'm watching a couple of SD1 & Range Rover sumps on ebay so I'll let you know.
Its a shame my p6 sump is in such bad condition, it would save a lot of problems.
Knocking the sump down for rod clearance won't be a problem but I think keeping the flange straight will be, hence my plan to sandwich it between 2 bits of kitchen worktop (nice thick chipboard) first before I hammer it to fit the cardboard templates I've made.
Its a shame my p6 sump is in such bad condition, it would save a lot of problems.
Knocking the sump down for rod clearance won't be a problem but I think keeping the flange straight will be, hence my plan to sandwich it between 2 bits of kitchen worktop (nice thick chipboard) first before I hammer it to fit the cardboard templates I've made.
The timing cover is responsible for determining the type of oil pick up required, not the sump.
The 4.6 in my P6B runs the P6 sump, which did require relieving, SD1 timing cover and oil pump, P6 oil pick up. The P6B windage tray was attached to the block after drilling and tapping as was necessary. Only Tempest blocks were drilled and tapped when they left the factory for such.
Ron.
The 4.6 in my P6B runs the P6 sump, which did require relieving, SD1 timing cover and oil pump, P6 oil pick up. The P6B windage tray was attached to the block after drilling and tapping as was necessary. Only Tempest blocks were drilled and tapped when they left the factory for such.
Ron.
4.6 Rover 3500 P6B
