P6 upgrade

Stina · Post by **Stina** » Tue Oct 15, 2013 8:59 pm

Hi Guys .
As above , i,ve done a bit more work to my P6 . I posted on here a year or so ago when i uprated the oil pump and timing gears . That was as far as i could afford to go at that time . The intention was always to go back and fit SD1 heads , new cam/lifters .
Over the last few weeks that is what i,ve done , i collected the parts over 18 months or so as and when i had spare pennies ( o.k the old man had to have jam sandwiches on occasion

)
Any hoo , work done , up and running again , with the cam ( 3.9 landrover ) run in to the correct procudure with Millers 20/50 oil . The heads are 3.5 SD1 of 1983 vintage , chemically cleaned , checked for flat and within tolerance , and i laped the valves in . Tin Gaskets . I used these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RANGE-ROVER-L ... 1c18205564
My reasoning being if they are no good i could always destroy and remove them with a decent pair of long nose pliers , obviously i couldn't of fitted them after if i decided i wanted to !
So basically it runs lovely , with a smooth tickover , strong low down and roll on top gear acceleration ( auto ) with a nice purposeful growl which is
all i was looking for . The only issue is a slight puff of blue smoke on hot restart after it's ben stood for a while . It clears straight away and uses no oil . the rest of the time it is totally clean . I've only done about 100 miles since and not given it a good long run . I'm wondering if it will carbon up a bit and get better Thinking on everything was chemically cleaned ( heads ) or is oil sitting on those seals then running down as it sits

I will do another 50 miles or so then change the oil . Any thoughts ? I,ve asked on the P6 forum but Know one seems to be talking to me at the moment

If the pics upload then the one of the rocker gear was waiting for my P6 baffle plates and did go together with them

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ChrisJC · Post by **ChrisJC** » Wed Oct 16, 2013 5:48 pm

Very very nice.

Chris.

bigaldart · Post by **bigaldart** » Thu Oct 17, 2013 7:00 pm

Great job, I would give it a bit of stick to make sure the bores don't glaze, that could be the source of the blue smoke that goes away once it warms up, you need to get the rings seated properly and that takes gas pressure behind the rings, a few clutch drops and a little lugging in a higher gear at lower speeds should do it.

Alan

Post by **Rossco** » Thu Oct 17, 2013 10:23 pm

Cheap oil is what you need for the first 500 miles to ensure the rings bed in

Stina · Post by **Stina** » Fri Oct 18, 2013 6:41 am

Thanks for nice comments and advice guys . It was only a top end overhaul though , the engine's only done 68k i could see honing marks on the bores . So piston / rings not touched . I'll certainly give it a thrash though

DaviesDJ · Post by **DaviesDJ** » Fri Oct 18, 2013 6:57 am

Hi there mate, lovely job. If the original machine marks are visible then that may indicate and established degree of glazing unfortunately after 65000 I would have thought they should be well and truly gone. But no great shakes, give it some load I reckon. What CR are you running currently again? Maybee a more worth while upgrade in the future may be some 10 bolt heads with a nice 3 angle seat job and hand blend the throats? If the smaller combustion chambers don't push the CR to high for standard fuel

petervdv · Post by **petervdv** » Fri Oct 18, 2013 12:15 pm

Hello Stina,

Nice job!! The smoke could be caused by the fact that there are no real valve stem seals on Sd1 heads. I recently rebuild my Sdi engine and replaced the valve guides with later one which have decent seals
On the picture, you find on the lh side the Sd1 valve guides and on the rh side the later guides with the valve stem seals

Regards
Peter

Stina · Post by **Stina** » Fri Oct 18, 2013 4:53 pm

Thanks guys .
I don't do many miles in Her , She gets used a couple of times a week , Shopping and shows , spot of rumbling around at the weekends . As for the honing marks , they are feint , but still viseable . The pistons looked standard , as in no over size markings . But who knows with a 40 year old motor ? someone may of had the urge to go in there and hone the bores in the past

As for the valve guides , Hmm , maybe i should of fitted new while it was apart , but where do you stop throwing money at these projects !
For the moment i'm totally happy with how she runs and sounds . Been giving it a good thrash up the gears , if i get stopped i'll say you lot said i had to

ChrisJC · Post by **ChrisJC** » Fri Oct 18, 2013 4:55 pm

I've never seen an RV8 where the honing marks have worn away!

Chris.

DaveEFI · Post by **DaveEFI** » Fri Oct 18, 2013 5:27 pm

ChrisJC wrote:I've never seen an RV8 where the honing marks have worn away!

Chris.

Quite - clearly visible on my 160,000 mile SD1 when I changed the heads earlier this year.

Wotland · Post by **Wotland** » Fri Oct 18, 2013 5:29 pm

Don't need to change valve guides.

Enginetech in USA makes some very nice umbrella valve steam seals you can use on early RV8 valve guide.

petervdv · Post by **petervdv** » Fri Oct 18, 2013 8:11 pm

these umbrella type seals move up and down with the valves and i don't believe these give the same sealing as the seals do which are fitted to the valve guides and do not move up and down.

Peter