help me round a few bends pls.

[scoobyv8]

catch up time if you like - http://www.v-8.org.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?p=1308#1308


i made time for the scoob yesterday, and heres the issues you can help me resolve

after removing the subaru's gearbox that sits well forward i thought i'd better try the engine in again. there is no sump on and its only resting on a narrow pole, and block of wood, so it should sit another inch or so higher

i currently have a 4wd front cover and pumps witch squeeze in just. i possibly could use this combo, but i'm looking for 2wd stuf to give me better room

without a gearbox at this time i'm unsure exactly how mutch space i will need. i left a reasonable space here for the bell, and the car has a huge transmission tunnel (a bit strange i thought, all the subaru boxes are small)

underneath

its gonna be a tight fit for the starter with my steering joint there
and using the exhaust manifold i have is not an option, it will hit the steering joint


on the other side however (ignore the subarus starter motor, i have removed it now) theres plenty space for this type of manifold




questions

1 - last pic, the subaru had a steady bar, do you think i should fabricate a mounting to use this? or just bin it and go with 2 engine mountings and a gearbox mtg?

2 - starter motors? are there different types for say for a mgb v8 and a landy? whats the narrowest? has anyone ever modded the bell to use a starter from the other side (g.box side) if i dont have enough room

3 - rocker box's they fit either way. will it matter with the baffles inside? i'd prefer the oil cap at the rear like in these pics

4 - manifolds, my left bank is'nt an issue but the right bank is. if i use the older p5 /6 (i think) manifolds that exit in the middle, i can drop the down pipe bellow the front subframe and steering.

5 - radiator, look at the second last pic
if i decide to stick with the 4wd front cover and pumps (it fits! why make extra expense) will a radiator the full width of the front end, and only as high as the watter pump allows for be sufficient for the 3.5?

thanks in advance for your input, i'm awaiting it
especially katanaman's your a god
George

also point out anything i may have missed.
i'd love DCOE's but i'l probably settle for efi, to suit my injection pump thats in the tank.
bonnet clearance is'nt a problem i have a bulge ordered.

[Lewis]

Hey - looks to be coming along a treat!

One thing though, is there no chance of moving the engine further back, i.e. up against the bulkhead? Where it is at the moment looks like it'll make the car rather nose heavy and could have a negative impact on the handling. Just a thought

EFi's great, so I wouldn't worry too much about it - flick the key and off you go (once it's all working, that is )

Where did you get your bonnet bulge from by the way?

[katanaman]

Money is in the post

Get rid of the old engine stay as it wont do you any good on the rover anyway.

There are two main types of starter motor. The sd1 type is big and heavy but the solenoid hangs under the the motor. 4wd type which is smaller lighter but the solenoid is out to the side. You can get aftermarket one I believe that combine the small size of a gear reduction motor and put the solenoid out of the way.

The radiator doesnt only depend on the width but the number of rows and the fin density. I think you might be ok with what your planning but it will be a custom rad obviously and you might need to go quite thick which has its downside. I am off to A&E in a mo (long story) but when I get back I will post a pic I took yesterday of my front setup so you can see the difference.

Exhausts will depend on your ride height and how much clearance you have under the car. I dont know these cars at all so have no idea if it will work.

On another note which will help you in loads of ways. Is there no way you can fir the engine further back? Looks from the pics that there is loads of room to do this but that's just pics. It will give you much more room for a rad and it will help the handling of the car no end. The way its sitting just now you have a very front end heavy car and thats just no fun in the corner stakes.

[JSF55]

Get a gearbox ! even if it's a bu66ered one, theres no way ur going to be able to set the car up without it, trial fit the manifolds whilst it's all in there and anything else u might want to run, power steering altenator and the starter of ur choice !! it's going to save going over old ground 2 or 3 times !! A+E ...... ooohhhhh nurses !!

[dnb]

I have a Scoob STi as my daily hack, but I shouldn't talk about that here...

1 - the steady bar is not going to be any use for the Rover, so it may as well not be in the way.

2 - I'll try to remember to take a pic of the TVR starter. It seems quite small. (I don't know what type it is)

3 - I doubt it will be a problem.

4 - That damn steering knuckle is a right PITA, even when you still have the EJ20 turbo engine in there!! I'll sort out those pics for you.

5 - The intermediate Serpentine cover is a bit thinner as you say. And you get the added advantage of a crank driven oil pump. It would be worthwhile if the money was in the pot for this. I found that I couldn't get too much cooling capacity in the front of the TVR.

Go for EFI and mapped ignition - the P38 Rangie coils fit behind the plenum and you don't have a dizzy getting in the way at the front. (Again, I'll have to dig out those pics!!)

[ChrisJC]

Echoing other points:
- Get a 'box on it
- I recommend the later serpentine / distributorless timing cover - it's shorter
- There are loads of different exhaust manifolds. Look for pics of MGB manifolds - they're very tight into the block. Or look at 101 manifolds (rear exit) or Range Rover single outlet ones (centre exit, straight down on starter side)

Are you keeping the 4WD?

Chris.

[Eliot]

More echo'ing...
get a box on it, i think you can move the engine back several inches.

here's an lt77 on a rv8:
http://www.mez.co.uk/westfield/DSCF0006.JPG

[scoobyv8]

thanks so far for your input

i'm confident theres more than enough space behind the engine for the gearbox. it might give me another couple of inches, but i really need a box to work with before i set anything. i understand its gonna me nose heavy but i'l have to live with it. i dont want to moddifiy the bulkhead. i will fit the engine and box as far into the bulkhead as possible on the final build

lewis bulge is comming from a member on here, "barnybrendan" sp
price is decent and he seems a decent guy to deal with. i'l post a piccy once it arives

old engine stay is removed, once i'm back at work i'l bring my spot weld drill home and remove the mounting

i'l pop to my local factors and take a look at there starter motor choices. i might remove the solenoid and run it remotely if it allows. (some starters i striped in the past have a plunger connected to the solenoid for the bendix) i wont be able to do so with this sort. i'l need to wait and see.

radiator should'nt be a problem. bumper and grille sits out from the slam pannel so a thick rad will fit no probs.

i'm gonna spend a bit of time looking at manifolds. theres plently room to use 101 rear exit, or plenty ground clearence to use a centre exit and go under the front subframe. the second would mean a 90deg bend around the subframe tho, so i may steer clear of this setup

shoping list is
serpintine front end, complete efi setup, and most likely 101 headers
better start saving, cheers guys
George

[scoobyv8]

cheers elliot

once the sumps on it will sit another couple of inches higher giving even more room for the starter as the steering joint go's the oposit way.

[ChrisJC]

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Land-Rover-101-V8 ... dZViewItem

[katanaman]

serp front cover is all well and good but they dont fit the early cranks as they are shorter. You can get the key way made longer and use a longer key and a spacer but that's extra expense. Unless you want to go full mapped ignition its the intermediate cover and pulleys you want which will still let you run a dizzy. Again more expense and I would have to question if spending all that extra money on a 3.5 is worth it. That's up to you tho

[stevieturbo]

catch up time if you like -

1 - last pic, the subaru had a steady bar, do you think i should fabricate a mounting to use this? or just bin it and go with 2 engine mountings and a gearbox mtg?

Depends on engine mountings you make. This controls fore/aft motion on the Subaru, as the engine mountings tend to be quite soft.

2 - starter motors? are there different types for say for a mgb v8 and a landy? whats the narrowest? has anyone ever modded the bell to use a starter from the other side (g.box side) if i dont have enough room

Bolt a RV8 bellhousing on, and move the engine back as far as is practical to free up space first.

3 - rocker box's they fit either way. will it matter with the baffles inside? i'd prefer the oil cap at the rear like in these pics

doesnt matter IMO

4 - manifolds, my left bank is'nt an issue but the right bank is. if i use the older p5 /6 (i think) manifolds that exit in the middle, i can drop the down pipe bellow the front subframe and steering.

5 - radiator, look at the second last pic
if i decide to stick with the 4wd front cover and pumps (it fits! why make extra expense) will a radiator the full width of the front end, and only as high as the watter pump allows for be sufficient for the 3.5?

thanks in advance for your input, i'm awaiting it
especially katanaman's your a god
George

also point out anything i may have missed.
i'd love DCOE's but i'l probably settle for efi, to suit my injection pump thats in the tank.
bonnet clearance is'nt a problem i have a bulge ordered.

efi would be more sensible anyway, and better in the long run in every respect.

[ihatesissycars]

Go for the serp front end, its alot shorter than the sd1 front i was originally using, i now have ALOT more space infront of my front pulley plus its just better in every way including looks.

I have a wierd starter, its the same size as the rangie ones but with an underlsung solenoid, best of bother worlds, the guy i got it from (ebay, he reconditioned it) said it was from an sd1 however i had an sd1 starter that marki has described before and it was huge as he says.

Ref the manifolds don't forget you can point them forwards and then under the engine or simliar, it oculd mean the difference between a crap flowing system and a good one.

Ref the longer keyway to drive the serp oil pump i soke to rob at v8dev's about his as i wanted to use (and now do) a serp front end.

He said "just get your dremel out and grind the keyway a bit longer then put the key in there, if its a bit slack then use some chemical metal to help secure it. Its only really there to locate the lot during assembly so provided you torque it up PROPERLY (correct torque setting, loctite) then it should be fine"

So thats what i did!

[scoobyv8]

cheers folks, you'v gave me lots of ideas to think about.

i wasnt aware i could fit the manifolds backwards. but i supose if the heads fit either side then the manifolds should fit either way. this might be an idea. i had a look at the 101 manifolds from the Egay link the left bank looks great for rear exit but the right seems to drop down at the angle my steering joint is at.

George

[ChrisJC]

I've got some pics of the old and serp type timing covers held next to each other for reference here:

http://www.cowdery.org.uk/miscv8.php

Just over 1/2 way down. Reading my own web page has reminded me that you need a different sump too!

You can see how much space you'd save and decide if it's worth the mucking about with the crankshaft....

Chris.