Hi all.
Need some direction getting my V8 running.
Basically, during my restoration ive lost ALL datum points for one reason or another.
Ive NEW replacement components to fit the removed items but im having a devil of a job figuring out the order, wiring and sequencing of everything.... in short, the engine turns over freely, has a spark but nothing else.
My question.... if you had a bare engine in front of you and a new electronic dizzy, coil, cap, leads and plugs, what would be your approach to validate true TDC, align dizzy, wire leads upto the cap and get it running.
Ive got a hard wired switch to bench run the engine as I know im getting 12v to the coil and starter solenoid. Just cant fifure the rest out myself and its driving me mad!
My engines a 1984 3.5 rover V8.
Ignition system setup from scratch!
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Minor_mania
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Re: Ignition system setup from scratch!
It's not too hard - I've done it myself a few times.
First you need to get No. 1 at TDC. Easiest way is to remove 'even' side rocker cover, so you can see the rockers on No. 6, and remove No. 1 spark plug.
Turn the engine until both valves on No. 6 are just open, i.e. one is nearly closed and the other is just opening. Piston No. 1 should be about at TDC. Stick something down No. 1 plug hole and tweak engine until piston is at TDC.
Next bit is a pain in the bottom because of the skew gear and oil pump drive at the bottom of the distributor.
Basically you need to set the distributor so the pickup is aligned with the reluctor spike, and the rotor arm is pointing at the location you are going to connect No. 1. lead to. Then slide the distributor into place. Doing this rotates it and ruins everything, so you have to pre-rotate it so when it goes fully home the above conditions are met. Then I turn it clockwise a little bit so the timing is advanced a bit.
Stick the plug leads on in the order 1,8,4,3,6,5,7,2 clockwise.
Often you find your choice of No.1 location on the distributor means the leads don't fit well, so repeat the above!!
See if it starts...
Chris.
First you need to get No. 1 at TDC. Easiest way is to remove 'even' side rocker cover, so you can see the rockers on No. 6, and remove No. 1 spark plug.
Turn the engine until both valves on No. 6 are just open, i.e. one is nearly closed and the other is just opening. Piston No. 1 should be about at TDC. Stick something down No. 1 plug hole and tweak engine until piston is at TDC.
Next bit is a pain in the bottom because of the skew gear and oil pump drive at the bottom of the distributor.
Basically you need to set the distributor so the pickup is aligned with the reluctor spike, and the rotor arm is pointing at the location you are going to connect No. 1. lead to. Then slide the distributor into place. Doing this rotates it and ruins everything, so you have to pre-rotate it so when it goes fully home the above conditions are met. Then I turn it clockwise a little bit so the timing is advanced a bit.
Stick the plug leads on in the order 1,8,4,3,6,5,7,2 clockwise.
Often you find your choice of No.1 location on the distributor means the leads don't fit well, so repeat the above!!
See if it starts...
Chris.
--
Series IIA 4.6 V8
R/R P38 4.6 V8
R/R L405 4.4 SDV8
Series IIA 4.6 V8
R/R P38 4.6 V8
R/R L405 4.4 SDV8
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stevieturbo
- Forum Contributor
- Posts: 3979
- Joined: Sat Nov 18, 2006 6:22 pm
- Location: Northern Ireland
Re: Ignition system setup from scratch!
Whether dizzy or points really makes no difference.
Set TDC cyl1 compression in the normal way, and then most basic way for dizzy, ensure the rotor arm points at cyl1 lead.
As you will also be able to see either the points open, or tooth pass the sensor inside the dizzy, that will give a slightly closer starting point as to when cyl1 will have an ability to fire.
Which will be shortly after the points open, or shortly after the trigger wheel tooth has passed the sensor.
Set TDC cyl1 compression in the normal way, and then most basic way for dizzy, ensure the rotor arm points at cyl1 lead.
As you will also be able to see either the points open, or tooth pass the sensor inside the dizzy, that will give a slightly closer starting point as to when cyl1 will have an ability to fire.
Which will be shortly after the points open, or shortly after the trigger wheel tooth has passed the sensor.
