A few ignition queries..

[lansalot]

Hi all

Few queries, hope you can help.

First, can anyone provide me with a web link so I can buy a plug spanner ? All the ones I've tried locally don't work, or are too thick for the recess etc...

Second, distributor on an SD1-type engine in a land rover 90 (serial, 11L20945A). It's had lumenition optical system fitted to it by the looks of things, and a couple of pics here:

http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/ ... directlink
http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/ ... directlink

I'm very wary that mechanical advance isn't working - on the road, acceleration is practically non-existent, but aside from that the engine does run pretty well. Off-road in low-box, the low ratios mask the problem to some extent. Also, on the road, the engine is prone to running at around 100 degrees if going up-hill. In town, it's far lower.. This leads me to think I have a serious mechanical advance problem which is limiting engine power at revs and causing the overheating ?

About top revs in 4th is around 4000rpm, and that's a struggle. Think that works out around 60mph...

A fecking good suck that would make Jenna Jameson proud on the vacuum advance pipe didn't show any movement either.

So, you'd say, check the timing with a strobe. Well, I got a strobe - but don't see where the timing marks on the engine are. And if I found them, I probably wouldn't know how to read it. Had a bit of a google, but no luck.

Can anyone advise if the distributor is strippable, and what/how to do to it to get it sorted ?

And lastly, procedure for changing oil ? I've read about not changing oil and filter at the same time because of having to re-prime the pump - so what's the deal assuming I don't want to do that ?

Am running on twin SUs, if that makes any difference.

Thanks in advance

A

[Tricky]

Hi your dissy looks like a converted points type,trow it away a find a late dizzy with the black electronic pack on the side it only has two wires make sure you get the wiring harness that plugs into the dizzy they connect to the coil.
As far as changing oil always change filter at same time,fill the new filter with oil and remove coil lead crank engine until oil light goes out reconnect coil and start engine

[RoverP6B]

The vacuum advance module will have no effect at all on acceleration, whether it is working or not. During acceleration, manifold vacuum is essentially zero, so even with a new module, vacuum advance is nil.

When you turn the rotor clockwise, do you feel resistance? When it reaches the limit of motion and you release the rotor, does it spring back to the initial static position?

If so, then the mechanical advance is working. If it is slow to return or does not return at all, then in the first case the springs are most likely very tired and require replacement, and in the second case the springs are likely to be broken, or something else has come adrift.

Blocked flame traps and their respective hoses along with the brass pipes on the SU carburettors and a dirty engine breather filter will result in excessive crankcase pressure which will work against the engine spinning freely.

Dirty air filters will significantly reduce engine performance. Are all of these clear and clean?

I used a Lucas 35D8 points type distributor fitted with Lumenition for 203,000 miles, and apart from the springs getting a little tired towards the end I never had any problems with it. In fact as the springs became tired, the advance would be all in somewhat sooner which if anything actually improved the acceleration of the car.

Please let me know what you find.

Ron.

[lansalot]

The vacuum advance module will have no effect at all on acceleration, whether it is working or not. During acceleration, manifold vacuum is essentially zero, so even with a new module, vacuum advance is nil.

When you turn the rotor clockwise, do you feel resistance? When it reaches the limit of motion and you release the rotor, does it spring back to the initial static position?

Yes, it springs back instantly

If so, then the mechanical advance is working. If it is slow to return or does not return at all, then in the first case the springs are most likely very tired and require replacement, and in the second case the springs are likely to be broken, or something else has come adrift.

Blocked flame traps and their respective hoses along with the brass pipes on the SU carburettors and a dirty engine breather filter will result in excessive crankcase pressure which will work against the engine spinning freely.

Haven't checked these yet, hope to get a look at them tomorrow.

Dirty air filters will significantly reduce engine performance. Are all of these clear and clean?

Yep, air filters are clean

I used a Lucas 35D8 points type distributor fitted with Lumenition for 203,000 miles, and apart from the springs getting a little tired towards the end I never had any problems with it. In fact as the springs became tired, the advance would be all in somewhat sooner which if anything actually improved the acceleration of the car.

Please let me know what you find.

Ron.

[RoverP6B]

Well it sounds like the mechanical advance in the distributor is not the problem then, which is excellent.

Another area to check is to ensure that when the throttle is fully depressed that translates into the SU butterflies being fully open. With the engine off and someone sitting inside with their foot on the accelerator, air cleaner and elbows removed, use a screwdriver or something similar to lift the piston up so as to expose the butterfly.

With the accelerator pedal fully depressed, the butterflies both need to be fully open, that is parallel with the bridge and underside of the piston.

If they are not, then power will certainly be less than it should be.

Ron.

[lansalot]

Well, I was planning to check this out after the play-day on Sunday, but as I broke 2 engine mounts and a transfer box mount and came home on a trailer, I think the ignition is the least of my worries for the moment

Thanks anyway, I now have an engine transplant on the cards (was going to do it anyway, might as well while some bolts are already out !)